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08-05-2014, 06:54 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: central
Posts: 32
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$ of brake controller and hitch
The dealer that I'm negotiating with proposed these prices (installed):
1. Electric Brake Controller: $ 325.00
2. Weight Distribution Kit: $ 559.00
3. Friction Sway Bar: $125.00
I believe that my 2013 Sierra's "HD Trailing Equipment Pkg" included a brake controller connector somewhere under the dash. I've got a family member with a 26BH and uses this brake controller, http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...-control/38307
and propose that this hitch/anti-sway bar is fine:
http://www.amazon.com/Eaz-Lift-48058...e=abba-chrome#
This looks like about $350 total for parts and a couple hours labor for the pros, maybe twice that for me. I'm thinking of installing the brake controller myself before going to pickup the trailer, and then installing the hitch myself right at the dealer. I understand that I'd need to rent a 400' pound torque wrench, but otherwise, youtube makes installing the hitch look easy enough. Suggestions? Thanks!!
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08-06-2014, 04:55 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Clifton Park,NY
Posts: 337
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Those dealer prices are a joke. You would be better off going with the Equalizer hitch set up and say the hell with the friction sway bar. As far as break controller go with the Prodigy II or III. Just my opinion.
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Chris
Chevrolet 2500 HD Crewcab
2013 Jay Flight 33 RLDS
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08-06-2014, 06:47 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Missouri City, The Republic of Texas
Posts: 5,063
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Make sure that your Sierra doesn't have an integrated brake controller. My '13 Ford does.
Consider buying your own equipment and having them install it. That's what I did prior to picking up our first TT (X23B) and it worked out well for me. I installed the brake control myself since the TV ('03 Expedition) had a connector for the controller. Although the dealer (Orlando RV/RV Direct) did a good job on the hitch install I had to tweak and tighten after a couple of trips. I don't recall how much they charged me but I expect it was in the $150 range.
Prior to picking up the 5th I also purchased the hitch for it. Since I had the under-bed mount on the truck the install was plug-n-play.
__________________
Cheers,
T_
2013 F-350 CC SB 2WD 6.7PS
2013 Eagle Premier 351 RLTS
-SOLD- 2012 X23B
-SOLD- 2003 Ford Expedition 5.4, Bilstein shocks
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08-06-2014, 07:09 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Bremerton
Posts: 342
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the only dealer installation issue I see is whether or not you want them to install a brake controller. $325 is about right for a topline brake controller installed.
as for the hitch, you could buy the hitch and swaybar (or equalizer w/o swaybar), then negotiate a small installation/setup fee with the dealer.
btw, those were about the prices I paid for a prodigy II controller and 1000# reese straitline hitch in 2008.
Tim
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08-06-2014, 07:49 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Central California
Posts: 2,283
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I would buy and install the break controller yourself.
Get a P2 for about $150 with the pre-made custom cable for your car, or $125 with the with generic cable. If you can read and follow instructions, maybe watch a YouTube video, you can self install in ~45 min including going into the under hood fuse box to add the relay to enable 12v at the 7way plug.
Secondly I would second getting an Equal-I-Zer brand WD hitch with integrated sway control. That should cost about $450-$500. Either buy it from the dealer and have them install it, or make it a condition of the sale that you provide it and they set it up for you when you pick up the trailer.
With the P2 and Equal-I-Zer you will not need a friction sway bar.
__________________
2020 Ram 1500 5.7L
2007 Chevy Duramax LMM/Allison (Sold)
2012 Jay Flight 29QBH (Sold)
2012 Jay Flight 26BH (Sold)
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08-06-2014, 07:54 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 1,712
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Some of the Silverado's and Sierras have wiring run under the dash but are not terminated to a plug (this was the case of my old 2007.5 (NBS) 1500 with the HD towing package and no factory brake controller). You have to crimp or solder the wiring of a controller to the factory wiring then go into the engine compartment and connect the power supply wire for the controller to the terminal stud and plug in a fuse you supply. Here is a link to some of the controllers on eTrailer http://www.etrailer.com/bc-2013_GMC_Sierra.htm
1/3 of the way down this page shows you how to locate the loose wires under the hood and further down it has the fuse info:
http://www.etrailer.com/faq-brake-co...silverado.aspx
__________________
2018 28BHBE
2017 Ford F250 XLT, 6.2 gasser
2013 26BH (traded)
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08-06-2014, 12:06 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Southern Ohio
Posts: 463
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The dealer is way to high!
I got the Eaz-Lift that your talking about from Amazon, it was not hard to install, it is a very good setup and very well made.
__________________
2015 Jay Flight 23 RB
2014 Silverado LT 1500 with a 5.3 V8 Ecotec3
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08-07-2014, 10:38 AM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: central
Posts: 32
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Thanks everybody! My truck is a 2013 GMC Sierra. I found a connector under the dash which I think is for a brake controller. I'll research it more, but I'm planning to install a quality one like you all suggested, and test it on a relative's trailer before going to the dealer.
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08-07-2014, 02:17 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Silver Spring, MD
Posts: 1,803
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If you have a pigtail or connector under the dash it is stupid easy to install the brake controller yourself. Buy a quality one and follow the instructions. Its very few wires and instructions are very easy.
If you can swing a wrench, you can install a WDH yourself. I bought my Equal-I-Zer from RVwholesalers for a really good price and installed it myself. It has sway control built in, no need for separate sway controller.
While those prices aren't too far out of line, you can easily save the labor fees by doing it yourself. Also, the people they usually have installing these aren't trained techs, they are just slapping things together without too much care, because they aren't the ones driving your rig. I prefer to do the work myself and know that it was done right, bolts were torqued to spec, measurements were right, etc.
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08-07-2014, 03:01 PM
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#10
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Virginia`s Eastern Shore
Posts: 17,092
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The older Chevy`s like mine were plug and play when you purchased the vehicle specific adapter for the controller. No splicing, no soldering. They should have kept it that way....
__________________
2017 Coachmen Catalina 283RKS
2018 Ford F250 Super Duty 6.2l CCSB
2010 Jayflight 28BHS (sold)
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