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Old 03-04-2021, 01:10 AM   #1
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Outlets, fan and microwave have no power

My gfci suddenly can't be reset and after checking for power on the recepticle found there is also no power. I went up and down stream checking all recepticles for damaged wires or something. found nothing. Checked the breaker and fuses. No issues. Although I didn't pull the panel out to check for power going into the breaker. So as the title explains my overhead a/c /fan does not work, microwave does not work at all, all outlets no power either. Im Pretty stumped at this point. I know I need to check the power supply going into the trailer but I can't find yet what wires supply the power going to all this. Sorry if it's obvious and im not seeing it. Thanks in advance for any help.
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Old 03-04-2021, 06:50 AM   #2
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Did you reset all your breakers? Do you have power at the post? That breaker may need to be reset.
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Old 03-04-2021, 08:03 AM   #3
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same thing happened on a friends camper. On his where the power cable meets the camper in that junction box a wire nut came loose and grounded out on the metal box.

you could not reset the GFIC on the plug and only 12 v items running on the batter would work.
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Old 03-04-2021, 08:09 AM   #4
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Old 03-04-2021, 08:13 AM   #5
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Another possibility. GFI can wear out. The one in my stick and brick garage went bad and I needed to replace it. Rare but it does happen.
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Old 03-04-2021, 11:52 PM   #6
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Thanks for the info everyone. I checked the wire nuts inside the junction box and all are good and strong connections. There is power coming into the wire nut coming from the I think is 6 awg wire from the battery going into the trailer. I felt that was the feed to the outlets and pretty much all other items in the trailer. I have a 2017 jayco jayflight 264 slx bhs. That did not produce anything. Still can not reset the gfi but there is also no power coming into it still. I am actually Interested to check out the power cord connection box because I had an arc when I plugged it into my house at one point and haven't tried to use my electrical since then.
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Old 03-05-2021, 12:07 AM   #7
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Also my battery seems to die pretty quickly. Easily with 12 hours if say and I can't even turn the lights on inside the trailer. Could that be a culprit for this issue with the ac and outlets not working? Im testing this while hooked up to my truck and my truck running by the way.
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Old 03-05-2021, 12:35 AM   #8
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TStill can not reset the gfi but there is also no power coming into it still. I am actually Interested to check out the power cord connection box because I had an arc when I plugged it into my house at one point and haven't tried to use my electrical since then.



Sorry I didn't scroll up to read the whole thread. All of the outlets are dead or only the GFCI ones?


You've checked all of the breakers in the converter? They're all reset?


If you have a spare outlet nearby (or grab one from Home Depot, Walmart) swap the GFCI with a non-GFCI **temporarily**. Just to test if the GFCI outlet went bad.
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Old 03-05-2021, 12:37 AM   #9
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Also my battery seems to die pretty quickly. Easily with 12 hours if say and I can't even turn the lights on inside the trailer. Could that be a culprit for this issue with the ac and outlets not working? Im testing this while hooked up to my truck and my truck running by the way.

12 hours is actually a long time for our 12V battery in our motorhome. Ours would be pretty low on charge after 12 hours. But it depends on what you've got on; what 12V systems are running.


Going back, if all your outlets are dead, then perhaps there's no electricity coming in to recharge your battery?
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Old 03-05-2021, 01:03 AM   #10
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Battery is going dead because it is not being charged. If you have no 120 volts, the converter will not be charging the battery. Also, you will not be able to reset the GFCI unless it is receiving 120 volt power.

It sounds like everything 120 volts is dead which eliminates many items. Basically, the 120 volts just comes into the unit through a power cord. It could be a 30 amp, 50 amp, or something less. Regardless, they all do the same thing. I am assuming you have checked the voltage at the outlet.

When troubleshooting a circuit, it is often beneficial to start in the middle. In this case, that is what you should do. Go straight to your circuit breaker panel and, using a voltmeter, measure the 120 volts there. Odds are it won't be there.

The circuit breaker panel will have a master breaker so measure there. Odds are it won't be there unless you are extremely lucky and just have a bad main breaker. After the main breaker there will be a bunch of other breakers that protect various circuits. You can ignore all of these because they would not have all failed at once.

So, I am betting there will be no 120 volts at the main breaker. This leaves the wire coming in from the outside outlet. Since you didn't mention a generator there probably isn't a transfer switch. If this is the case, the wire (or cable) supplying power to your rig will most likely connect directly to the main breaker. No power at the main breaker means the voltage isn't making it in through the power cord. That narrows the field pretty much.

Without testing with a voltmeter you will only be making wild guesses. IF YOU DON'T FEEL COMFORTABLE POKING AROUND 120 VOLTS, FIND SOMEONE WHO IS EXPERIENCED. You can get a healthy jolt if you don't know what you are doing.

I have attached a couple of troubleshooting documents. Good luck!
Attached Thumbnails
Voltmeter.JPG  
Attached Files
File Type: pdf RV Electrical Troubleshooting (ver 2).pdf (2.01 MB, 28 views)
File Type: pdf Quick Multimeter Instructions (ver 1).pdf (376.3 KB, 19 views)
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Old 03-05-2021, 01:37 AM   #11
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Thanks for the good Info. I'll have to follow these steps.
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Old 03-05-2021, 01:44 PM   #12
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There is power coming into the wire nut coming from the I think is 6 awg wire from the battery going into the trailer. I felt that was the feed to the outlets and pretty much all other items in the trailer.
The wire from the battery to the trailer does not feed the outlets. That wire only provides 12 volt DC current lights, fans and control circuits in the fridge, the radio, etc.

The outlets are fed power through the outdoor cable that plugs into the campsite pedestal. Unless you have an inverter in the trailer (which converts DC battery power to AC), none of your outlets (including wall outlets, the microwave outlet, refrigerator 120 vac outlet) will work unless you're plugged into a pedestal or an outlet at the house.

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I am actually Interested to check out the power cord connection box because I had an arc when I plugged it into my house at one point and haven't tried to use my electrical since then.
If you saw arcing when plugging into a pedestal, it's possible that the hot AC line is shorted out to neutral or ground somewhere. Where exactly did you see the arc?
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Old 03-05-2021, 02:30 PM   #13
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I was curious of that. Right now it's only working off battery and being hooked up to my truck. I'll have to see if my trailer has an inverter. Sorry if this seem amature but this is all new to me and this type of electrical is new to me. The arc was only coming out when I either unplugged or plugged it into my home standard outlet with a proper adapter, I don't remember if it was during plugging or unplugging. I think I just unplugged it to slow or plugged it in to slow and made a quick arc.
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Old 03-05-2021, 05:09 PM   #14
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JIMD and I will never agree on this but then he is not a trained and license Master Electrician. ALWAYS start at the shore power Ped with a voltmeter (Not in the middle) and be sure you have the proper voltage. You do start in the middle of the circuit when you are looking for a known dead short. Then you work left and right from there. From the ped, work your way back to the RV circuit breaker box-checking EVERY connection you find. Ped to electric connection on side of RV. Side of RV to ATS if you have one. ATS to RV main breaker. Check every joint you find along the way in order. GFI outlet will not reset unless it has power going it. If you don't have a voltmeter you are wasting your time. 50 amps = 120/240 volts. 30 amp = 120 volts. Your ceiling fan is probably 12 volts. Being a trailer you probably do not have an inverter. You will have a converter. It is fed by120 volts and charges your battery and provides 12 volts for control circuits thruout the RV. The converter is usually combined with the fuse/circuit breaker box.
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Old 03-05-2021, 05:45 PM   #15
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JIMD and I will never agree on this but then he is not a trained and license Master Electrician. ALWAYS start at the shore power Ped with a voltmeter (Not in the middle) and be sure you have the proper voltage. You do start in the middle of the circuit when you are looking for a known dead short. Then you work left and right from there. From the ped, work your way back to the RV circuit breaker box-checking EVERY connection you find. Ped to electric connection on side of RV. Side of RV to ATS if you have one. ATS to RV main breaker. Check every joint you find along the way in order. GFI outlet will not reset unless it has power going it. If you don't have a voltmeter you are wasting your time. 50 amps = 120/240 volts. 30 amp = 120 volts. Your ceiling fan is probably 12 volts. Being a trailer you probably do not have an inverter. You will have a converter. It is fed by120 volts and charges your battery and provides 12 volts for control circuits thruout the RV. The converter is usually combined with the fuse/circuit breaker box.
I’m not an electrician but I 100% Agee with your trouble shooting steps.
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Old 03-05-2021, 05:57 PM   #16
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Thanks for the info. This is based off no hook up to a power source besides my truck and obviously the battery. Im going to look for a reset button tonight as well. I looked at all connections already and found good strong connections.
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Old 03-05-2021, 05:57 PM   #17
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I was curious of that. Right now it's only working off battery and being hooked up to my truck. I'll have to see if my trailer has an inverter. Sorry if this seem amature but this is all new to me and this type of electrical is new to me. The arc was only coming out when I either unplugged or plugged it into my home standard outlet with a proper adapter, I don't remember if it was during plugging or unplugging. I think I just unplugged it to slow or plugged it in to slow and made a quick arc.
Maybe this is obvious, but is your trailer plugged into a 120v source (house, campsite pedestal, etc.)? All of the items you mention (outlets, microwave, AC, etc.) are 120v and will not have power unless you are plugged in.
Your battery and truck are 12v and will not power any of the items you are stating are dead.
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Old 03-05-2021, 06:03 PM   #18
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Maybe this is obvious, but is your trailer plugged into a 120v source (house, campsite pedestal, etc.)? All of the items you mention (outlets, microwave, AC, etc.) are 120v and will not have power unless you are plugged in.
Your battery and truck are 12v and will not power any of the items you are stating are dead.

No hook up to anything but my truck. Like I said before this is my first trailer and still learning a lot ha. I do believe there is a converter but I haven't looked at it yet besides the fuses and breakers. Which are all fine.
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Old 03-05-2021, 06:14 PM   #19
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No hook up to anything but my truck. Like I said before this is my first trailer and still learning a lot ha. I do believe there is a converter but I haven't looked at it yet besides the fuses and breakers. Which are all fine.
Plug the trailer into your house... none of the items you are saying aren’t working run off 12v (your battery or truck).
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Old 03-05-2021, 06:14 PM   #20
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I do believe there is a converter but I haven't looked at it yet besides the fuses and breakers. Which are all fine.
The converter only converts 120v to 12v to charge your battery and run the lights, furnace and power up the fridge on gas. If you're not plugged into a shore power outlet then that is your problem.
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