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Old 02-28-2015, 05:58 PM   #21
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superior quality control , family oriented, and blah blah blah...its absolutly unnaceptable, its not an honest mistake, its pure negligence period
This is not a quality control issue it is a matter of a technician making excuses for taking 3 hours to do a job that probably could have been done in 30 minutes. There are no connections behind the panel and each outlet is not on a home run of wire. The breaker panel in a RV is just like one in a house. It has a ground buss, a neutural buss and the breakers. (Look at the picture tunce posted) All connections are made in the front of the panel. There are usually 3 to 5 outlets on a circuit and they are connected to one continuous piece of wire. They do not use screw connections on the outlets either, they are pressed on to the wire very similar to 12 volt wire splices. This had to be a matter of a loose connection at the breaker or a bad breaker not many loose connections.

Here is a link to a typical RV receptacle:

White Receptacle - RVWholesalers.com RV Parts and Accessories
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Old 02-28-2015, 06:05 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by AKGperson View Post
I just checked our 2015 25BHS and it has the following 120 VAC outlets:

1) One in the bathroom,
2) One on the lower kitchen cabinet by the door (GFCI),
3) One on each side of the bed platform, and,
4) One inside the storage area to the left of the stereo (behind drop down door).

There is also a 12 VDC outlet (cigarette lighter plug) in the storage area to the left of the stereo. I was pleased to find this one because I may eventually buy a 12 volt TV.
I have a FBS125 and those are all of the outlets I have also. I didn't see the ones on the side of the bed base at first so I was really worried for a bit. And the location in the bedroom makes those difficult to use.
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Old 02-28-2015, 06:38 PM   #23
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[QUOTE=Grumpy;274294]This is not a quality control issue it is a matter of a technician making excuses for taking 3 hours to do a job that probably could have been done in 30 minutes. There are no connections behind the panel and each outlet is not on a home run of wire.

Thank you Grumpy, and that's the way it is plain and simple. Think I'll go out and trip a breaker now just for the hell of it.
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Old 02-28-2015, 07:59 PM   #24
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Exactly what I meant, sorry for my poor english ( i'm french speaking from quebec )

I found very disappointing that a trailer can be delivered with all, not only one but all the wiring on the 120v receptacle not connected properly and furthermore not even tested ! :-) would be nice to see a production line working as good as the marketing department
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Old 02-28-2015, 08:03 PM   #25
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ok then I apologize, I jumped the gun, its not a quality control issue and the trailer has been fabricated correctly and fully tested prior delivery like it should be :-)
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Old 02-28-2015, 08:34 PM   #26
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ok then I apologize, I jumped the gun, its not a quality control issue and the trailer has been fabricated correctly and fully tested prior delivery like it should be :-)
The OP said on 2/7 they were on one breaker so that seems to say they worked when he took delivery.
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Old 02-28-2015, 08:42 PM   #27
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I was referring to post #9... anyway no big deal I am disapearing

Quote:
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The OP said on 2/7 they were on one breaker so that seems to say they worked when he took delivery.
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Old 02-28-2015, 08:55 PM   #28
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Post 7 and post 9 were from the same person and he was the one who had trouble.
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Old 02-28-2015, 09:02 PM   #29
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post 7 shows what he knew before discovering ( post 9 ) that none of his elect.outlet worked ...it is going to take too much time and effort from me to rephrase everything and to develop what I meant to say in Frenchglish ......so now I am really disapearing LOL
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Old 02-28-2015, 11:05 PM   #30
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Let me start by saying that I am a General Contractor with quite a lot of home wiring experience but I have never worked on a travel trailer.

Normally when wiring a house we start at the outlet closest to the service panel and continue on down stream until we get to the last outlet on that circuit. The black (hot) wire is connected directly to the circuit breaker. The white (neutral) wire is connected to the neutral buss and the bare (ground) wire is connected to the ground buss.

The 3-wire cable that runs from the panel to the last outlet is cut at each outlet box to connect the wires to each outlet. Best practice is to connect each wire to the outlet with a "pigtail" (Google it) instead of stabbing the wire into the back of the outlet. By doing this you are not forcing the current to flow through the outlet. The reason for this is because if an outlet is stab-wired and it fails, all of the downstream outlets fail. Pigtails provide a continuous flow of current to the end of the run even if an outlet is physically removed.

According to Grumpy, RV outlets have just the stab-in wire connections in the back forcing the current to flow through the outlet so if an outlet fails, all downstream outlets fail. This may have been the case with my TT. The first outlet may have failed causing all of them to fail.

As I said in a previous post, I don't intend to perform any repairs on my trailer as long as it is under warranty but Grumpy has me curious so I will pull an outlet and the panel to see exactly how they are wired.

Ken
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