Paneling peeling off

[TeamRAB]

2018 Whitehawk 29RE

The finish paneling is coming off the ceiling of one of my slide outs. Every time I try to nail it back in, in multiple locations, the nail gets about a quarter inch in and then bends.

Is there anything I’m missing while trying to fix this? Is it a warranty issue?

[Grumpy]

It is going into an aluminum frame and is nailed in place using an air nailer with special fasteners. Yes it would/could be a warranty issue.

[TeamRAB]

Thanks! Just called a local dealer, they’re going to see if it’s covered.

[TeamRAB]

Well, I called the dealer, it’s covered under warranty. But the downside is that the nearest dealer is over an hour away. Does anyone have advice on how to DIY? Would glue be alright, or would it risk peeling the wallpaper off?

[Scott_Trailer_Newbe]

Buy a brad gun and do it yourself. They use 3/4” long brads on the walls. My last trailer did this as well. This time I bought a brad nailer for $25.00 3/4” brads, set the air compressor to 65 PSI and doubled the amount of brads in all the trim. Now they are rock solid and won’t be coming off.

[Screwby]

Originally Posted by TeamRAB

Well, I called the dealer, it’s covered under warranty. But the downside is that the nearest dealer is over an hour away. Does anyone have advice on how to DIY? Would glue be alright, or would it risk peeling the wallpaper off?

I’d glue it if it were mine no question

[Scott_Trailer_Newbe]

Glue will not hold up, and then you’ll have mess.

[CampNow]

Originally Posted by TeamRAB

. . .

The finish paneling is coming off the ceiling of one of my slide outs. Every time I try to nail it back in, in multiple locations, the nail gets about a quarter inch in and then bends . . .

Originally Posted by Grumpy

It is going into an aluminum frame and is nailed in place using an air nailer with special fasteners . . .

IMO, glue is a reasonable option for small trim like this, as long as you know how to match the glue to the surface material to ensure a permanent bond, and have a way to apply constant pressure to the trim until the glue sets.

In any case, assuming there's aluminum behind the trim, not sure how a brad nailer (or a nail of any kind) is going to work. Also, many folks don't have access to specialized fasteners, air tools, or may not want to use glue. If you're one of these folks, I'd first verify there's nothing behind the trim that will be negatively affected by a small, short screw. I'd drill several small, strategically placed, pilot holes, then attach the trim using some extremely small, flat-head screws. Ideally you'll use screws that are dark in color to more or less match the shade of the trim. Yes, the screw heads will still be somewhat visible, please read-on.

On most TT's the trim typically matches the cabinetry. I'd take a sample (i.e., small cabinet door or a removable piece of trim) to HD/Lowes and match up a small container of sample paint. Apply this paint to the screw heads. Or, you could even apply some fine filler to smooth over the screw heads before applying the paint (works better if you counter-sink the screw heads just below the surface of the trim). No, not a furniture-grade fix, but it'll work.

FWIW, the sample paint will also come in extremely handy for touching up scratches and knicks to the trim and cabinetry thoughout your trailer.

[Scott_Trailer_Newbe]

That is why you need the brad nailer. I found out the same way, when I found some dropped 3/4” brads in my trailer, the assembly guys left and I figured it out. You need to set the air pressure by testing but this is how the factory applies this trim, so avoid the glue. Brad is king and set correctly it goes through the aluminum no problem.

[CampNow]

Originally Posted by Scott_Trailer_Newbe

That is why you need the brad nailer. I found out the same way, when I found some dropped 3/4” brads in my trailer, the assembly guys left and I figured it out. You need to set the air pressure by testing but this is how the factory applies this trim, so avoid the glue. Brad is king and set correctly it goes through the aluminum no problem.

If the OP has a brad nailer, and if the OP's brad nailer will punch through whatever is behind the trim, then I agree that's the ideal solution. To my knowledge, the OP has not definitively determined what is behind the trim. It might be aluminum (of unknown thickness) or something else.

Furthermore, not all brad nailers are created equal. Secondly, not all aluminum is created equal. (i.e., the same thickness). To simply say a brad nailer will punch through aluminum, period, is a stretch to say the least. If you're willing to qualify that with a particular type of brad nailer and a given thickness of aluminum, then I might be on board with your suggestion.

Bottom line: If the OP decides to pass on the nail options (hammer, brad, etc.) . . . I think it's reasonable to say he does have other options. It's not just brad or the highway--lol!

[Screwby]

Originally Posted by Scott_Trailer_Newbe

Glue will not hold up, and then you’ll have mess.

Why would you have a mess? Construction adhesive will absolutely hold a small piece of cove trim in place. If the OP can borrow a Brad nailer then sure, but to go purchase something that you don’t need again for a job so simple seems overkill. That would be like buying a coil nailer and compressor to run it to put a roof on a dog house. Try a good construction adhesive, heck try some of the 60lb double sided Velcro I used to hang a 35lb picture on the wall in my 5th wheel. It’s been up for two years now and the only thing holding it is the adhesive backing stuck to the wall.

[Scott_Trailer_Newbe]

Its the heat of the summer that causes this. I live in Arizona and basically the wood warps and pulls the brads out or through the wood, like you see in his picture. After going through my 28RL it became evident Jayco is not putting enough brads in. As someone else said the brad need to go though aluminium and I found some didn't and bent over. Once I doubled the number of brad nails, it is rock solid and looks very clean.

As hot as it get here in the summer adhesive would last maybe one season.

[Screwby]

Originally Posted by Scott_Trailer_Newbe

Its the heat of the summer that causes this. I live in Arizona and basically the wood warps and pulls the brads out or through the wood, like you see in his picture. After going through my 28RL it became evident Jayco is not putting enough brads in. As someone else said the brad need to go though aluminium and I found some didn't and bent over. Once I doubled the number of brad nails, it is rock solid and looks very clean.

As hot as it get here in the summer adhesive would last maybe one season.

Heck with Arizona...that’s what you get for living on the surface of the sun

[Scott_Trailer_Newbe]

Agreed but this time of year and the fall is to die for.

[CampNow]

Originally Posted by Screwby

Heck with Arizona...that’s what you get for living on the surface of the sun

Originally Posted by Scott_Trailer_Newbe

Agreed but this time of year and the fall is to die for.

Granted, in terms of UV's, yup, AZ is absolutely brutal during the summer. But, all-in-all, we find the weather in southern AZ to be ideal. Of course, if you're fond of humidity, rain, thunderstorms, tornadoes, and the like, not a fun place to be. But, for those folks who like counting on beautiful blue skies just 'bout year 'round, well, you just can't beat it. Can't remember the last time we had to change any plans due to any kind of weather issue.

As for the summers, yes, numerically it's very hot. However, we find the 100-110 degree temps with 7% humidity in AZ, much more comfortable than the typical 85-95 degree temps and 80-90% humidity you find in many other parts of the country during the summer.