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Old 01-24-2020, 08:22 AM   #1
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Permanent Leveling

Hi, brand new to the site. My wife and I just purchased our first RV (2012 jayco jay flight 32 bhds). We will be permanently parking it at a campground in CO this summer. Since it will NOT be going on the road, we are wondering the best way to level it. Talked with one person who said I should level it off the frame, taking the weight off the wheels, which (he said) would create maximum stabilization. Thoughts regarding that method, other suggestions? Thanks.
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Old 01-24-2020, 08:41 AM   #2
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The ability to access the frame at six points sounds, well, sound to me. Our six auto level is the bomb. We love it. Our now 5r we also use a tripod and it works! On our last 5r I had to use screw bottle jacks, easier when your traveling. However, it took a little bit of work to set the jacks in the proper locations. Do you have screw jacks at the rear? I would not use slider jacks unless your removing the wheels and yes I would remove the tires if its permanently parked. A low tire pressure could cause undue stress on a open seated slider, even a slight uneven movement could tear a rubber seal. Additionally slider maintenance needs to occur even when seasonally camping.

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Old 01-24-2020, 09:03 AM   #3
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I've been in a couple of campers that had the tires removed and leveled up on the frame with concrete blocks on all 4 corners, rock solid. One of the campers the guy had put treated deck board between the blocks and frame. He also put a nice decorative skirting around the camper to hide everything. Just start by having a solid foundation for the block so you don't have a lot of settling.
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Old 01-27-2020, 06:59 AM   #4
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Thanks. We have screw jacks in front and back. Thanks so much for the info. The 6-point levelers look pretty awesome!
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Old 01-27-2020, 07:43 AM   #5
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I would support it with the frame. I’ve seen a lot of RVs permanent that Are supported by the tires and they put supports on the slide outs. After a while the tires sink or lose air pressure and the slides get pinned up against the top of the header and screws everything up. By supporting the frame that doesn’t happen and you can make a very stable set up.
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Old 01-27-2020, 02:26 PM   #6
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Our TT is permanently parked. We raised the TT off the wheels and supported the frame with cinder blocks. We have a tower of cinder blocks immediately in front of the axles and immediately behind the axles. Then another tower of block halfway between the axle and the corner of the TT, so 4 towers on each side. Then the stabilizers are down at each corner.

Our TT is 40 feet long, so you may not need as many towers are we used. Since your
TT will be in a state where the ground freezes, it might be best to bury a cinder block or two under each tower, depending on how deep the ground freezes. We did not do that and every year we return to the TT, we have to do some tweaking to re-level after the ground has frozen and then thawed.

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Old 01-27-2020, 02:51 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TCNashville View Post
I've been in a couple of campers that had the tires removed and leveled up on the frame with concrete blocks on all 4 corners, rock solid. One of the campers the guy had put treated deck board between the blocks and frame. He also put a nice decorative skirting around the camper to hide everything. Just start by having a solid foundation for the block so you don't have a lot of settling.
As one who had a trailer "permanently" parked on a campground lot for 18 years, I agree with this simple method and weight off the tires. As stated, if you have support under the slides, the tires lose pressure and put stress on the slide. Pressure treated 2 X 8s on top of the cinder blocks do help.

Most RV builder recommend not putting supports under the slides mostly for this reason but being in Colorado, you most likely will bring in the slides for the winter, so maybe best no support under them.

BTW, congrats on the purchase of your first RV!

Murff

P.S. Note that cinder blocks do have a correct way of being stacked. The "holes" are actually tapered and the bigger opening is the bottom!
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Old 01-28-2020, 08:11 AM   #8
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P.S. Note that cinder blocks do have a correct way of being stacked. The "holes" are actually tapered and the bigger opening is the bottom!
One thing I see done often and can be very dangerous, is to use cinder blocks on their side. They are extremely week in this orientation, Any rocking back and forth, fractures the block, eventually will it fails. So having the blocks in the orientation like Muff said is important.
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Old 01-28-2020, 09:10 PM   #9
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Thanks SO MUCH for the replies. They have been very helpful!
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