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Old 10-07-2017, 06:12 AM   #1
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Power Converter Question

Will a properly functioning power converter/battery charger power the travel trailer's 12V DC system, WITHOUT A 12V DEEP CYCLE BATTERY CONNECTED TO THE SYSTEM, when the trailer is connected to 120V 30A shore line?
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Old 10-07-2017, 07:35 AM   #2
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Isn't recommended special if you want to run your furnace. You have any reason you want to go this route?
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Old 10-07-2017, 08:42 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by wenzels2001 View Post
Will a properly functioning power converter/battery charger power the travel trailer's 12V DC system, WITHOUT A 12V DEEP CYCLE BATTERY CONNECTED TO THE SYSTEM, when the trailer is connected to 120V 30A shore line?
Do you mean specifically "WITHOUT A 12V DEEP CYCLE BATTERY" or do you mean without ANY 12v battery?

IMO, any 12v battery would be OK. Without a battery, there could be an issue with high current draw situations - running jacks or slides for example - without the amperage available from a battery. I haven't tried it so have no direct experience.
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Old 10-07-2017, 09:01 AM   #4
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Will a properly functioning power converter/battery charger power the travel trailer's 12V DC system, WITHOUT A 12V DEEP CYCLE BATTERY CONNECTED TO THE SYSTEM, when the trailer is connected to 120V 30A shore line?
Yes. In a normally functioning RV electrical system everything should work just fine with or without any kind of battery while hooked up to shore power.
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Old 10-07-2017, 09:12 AM   #5
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Don't forget you need your battery for the emergency brake system of the TT
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Old 10-07-2017, 09:15 AM   #6
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IMO, any 12v battery would be OK. Without a battery, there could be an issue with high current draw situations - running jacks or slides for example - without the amperage available from a battery. I haven't tried it so have no direct experience.
X2 on this.
The current output from your converter is limited, and some of your devices will try to pull more than it can deliver. (slides and jacks have been mentioned)

Part of the reason for having a battery is to act as a reservoir for those times when you need a little extra "grunt" (that's a technical term...) than the converter can deliver alone.


Ian, the electric guy from Scotland
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Old 10-07-2017, 10:13 AM   #7
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Do you mean specifically "WITHOUT A 12V DEEP CYCLE BATTERY" or do you mean without ANY 12v battery?

IMO, any 12v battery would be OK. Without a battery, there could be an issue with high current draw situations - running jacks or slides for example - without the amperage available from a battery. I haven't tried it so have no direct experience.
X3 you will need a battery for high amperage draw situations...
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Old 10-07-2017, 03:08 PM   #8
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Without 12v battery

I meant without any battery installed. Once a seasonal connects to a 120v 30A shore line- don’t they just remove the 12v battery, or do they still need it? I assumed when connected to shore Line the converters job is twofold 1- Power the travel trailer, and 2- keep the battery topped off, or is that an inaccurate assumption?
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Old 10-07-2017, 03:09 PM   #9
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Nope! Just trying to understand what’s causing an issue with my -12 volt power system.
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Old 10-07-2017, 08:38 PM   #10
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Current (no pun intended situation)

Okay... installed new 12V deep cycle marine battery last night... all is working fine, including the heater, all night long. This morning, after 12 hours, the battery was reading 12.27V, turned the heater off. This evening, after 24 hours post battery installation, the battery was reading 12.11V. I believe that the "charger" side of the converter/charger is failing. Does this seem right?

Inline 30A battery fuse, on-board converter 30A reverse polarity fuses, all 12V panel fuses, and all circuit breakers are in proper working order.
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Old 10-07-2017, 08:53 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by wenzels2001 View Post
Okay... installed new 12V deep cycle marine battery last night... all is working fine, including the heater, all night long. This morning, after 12 hours, the battery was reading 12.27V, turned the heater off. This evening, after 24 hours post battery installation, the battery was reading 12.11V. I believe that the "charger" side of the converter/charger is failing. Does this seem right?

Inline 30A battery fuse, on-board converter 30A reverse polarity fuses, all 12V panel fuses, and all circuit breakers are in proper working order.
Yes, something isn't right with the charging. The voltage at the battery from the charger should be in the neighborhood of 13.3v, not in the 12v range.
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Old 10-07-2017, 09:30 PM   #12
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Yes, something isn't right with the charging. The voltage at the battery from the charger should be in the neighborhood of 13.3v, not in the 12v range.
Thanks, that’s what I figured. Also, it seems that the 12v system should function even without a battery installed when connected to shore line!??
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Old 10-08-2017, 06:08 PM   #13
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This morning, 36 hours post battery installation, its reading 11.87V... charger is definitely not functioning properly!
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Old 10-08-2017, 06:19 PM   #14
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Don't know what make power converter you have, but get a progressive converter which have good warranty and a very good charging wizard in maintaining your battery.
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Old 10-16-2017, 03:51 PM   #15
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I have a 2017 jayflight 28 bhbe, which type of converter do I have, and would that type charge the battery? How many volts should it put out? Thank you.
John
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Old 10-16-2017, 04:32 PM   #16
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The output is around 13.6 volts with load. Progressive has a four stage and can charge up to 14.2 Volts. What type you have in your unit? You have to look, as what ever they have in stock on the production line at time of assembly.
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Old 10-16-2017, 04:52 PM   #17
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The one thing that most people that take out their batteries overlook is that the CO detector works off the battery, so when that AC power line drops off in the middle of the night and you are not aware, you have lost the protection of the CO detector.

The battery absorbs any DC voltage spikes in the converters output. The DC appliances can take 15VDC, but higher than that may cost you some money. As mentioned, the CG's are not providing the cleanest power and in the CG we were staying, my system recorded a few almost 200 VAC spikes to the line during storms (at the pedestal). The lowest AC voltage recorded other than "0" was 73 VAC. Unfortunately, my system does not record DC voltage issues (High or Low). Guess I will have to add that to my next electronics project.

A battery is cheap protection.

So yes ANY 12VDC battery will do if you are seasonal.

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Old 10-16-2017, 07:06 PM   #18
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Thanks all! Contacted IOTA Engineering and they sent me a trouble shooting sheet for determining proper functionality of my converter. After testing, the converter was receiving the 120 VAC input but supplying "0" DC output. After removing the unit to prepare to replace it, noticed something rattling around inside of housing... took it apart and one of the diodes have melted and separated from the circuit board. Also looked like one of the capacitors had failed too. It worked very well for 12 years! Time for a replacement. Thanks again!
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Old 10-17-2017, 05:48 AM   #19
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My converter is a WFCO brand, model # WF8955pec.

I will research and trouble shoot the issue of non charging further. Thank You.
John
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Old 10-17-2017, 09:23 AM   #20
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WFCO has DC fuses on the panel, check them. Remove the battery clamps and see if you still have output from the Converter.
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