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Old 04-21-2015, 12:58 PM   #11
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Yes I was referring to when things are right.


Mustang65 & Scoutr2 both bring up good points. It's always a good idea to check the power outlet on the CG pedistal for proper plug fit, signs of bad wear or previous heat. It is very unfornuate for the folks with the fire, always hate to hear those stories. That's alot to go wrong at once, just proves weird things CAN happen.
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Old 04-21-2015, 01:16 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagiven View Post
TexasRT, the one thing you are missing on your comment about a 50 amp power supply verses a 30 amp, is the number of power legs. The 50 amp cord, has 2 legs of power each at 50 amps, for a total of 100 amps. Whereas the 30 amp power supplies are a single leg, for a total of 30 amps. So the 50 amp service has over 3 times the available power. That is why you can run everything all day long and not have any issues with the cord over heating.
You are correct, I just didn't feel the need to go into it. It's probable best that most people just think of it as 50a or 30a respectfully.

The next question will be why don't they call it a 100a cord then.
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Old 04-21-2015, 01:55 PM   #13
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So what do you guys do keep the refrig cool on an trip that takes about 7 or 8 hours??
I run with mine on but maybe I'm doing something wrong
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Old 04-21-2015, 02:27 PM   #14
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I run with mine on also. Have for years, and no problems. If you tow with a gasser, may want to shut it off for fueling, or at least pay attention to where the fridge is located as related to the fueling operation, breezes etc. I use diesel, and fridge is in the back of trailer, so I don't worry then either. I like my perishables to stay "unpariched". Not to mention ice cold beer upon arrival!
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Old 04-21-2015, 04:26 PM   #15
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...I replaced mine with the 30amp twist lock type because my cord got tied in a knot and I just about ripped my power cord hatch off trying to get cord out.
==========
Do you know the make and model of your 30 amp receptacle you installed? And did it cover the hole left by the other cord pull out? I had the same thing happen on our last TT. Fortunately, I could get to it from the inside and untangle it. Not so with the one we have now. It would be a chore to get to this one.
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Old 04-21-2015, 04:34 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by rryman View Post
Do you know the make and model of your 30 amp receptacle you installed? And did it cover the hole left by the other cord pull out? I had the same thing happen on our last TT. Fortunately, I could get to it from the inside and untangle it. Not so with the one we have now. It would be a chore to get to this one.
Here is a link to my conversion if you are interested:
https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/me...albums564.html
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Old 04-21-2015, 04:36 PM   #17
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We pull our power cord all the way out when hooking up at home because we need to, to get it to the plug-in, so that's what we're used to doing. Also run with the propane on for the 'fridge when we travel.
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Old 04-21-2015, 06:19 PM   #18
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Question: What would these new type propane valves do ( the ones you must open very slow to get them to open up) should you rip a hose or pipe loose? I also fully extend my power chord. It is also kept off the ground. To me, it stays cooler, cleaner, out of any water, and no chance of being a ground point for lighting.
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Old 04-21-2015, 06:36 PM   #19
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Thanks for the pics, Mustang, nice looking installation you got there.
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Old 04-21-2015, 07:05 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arkhillbilly View Post
Question: What would these new type propane valves do ( the ones you must open very slow to get them to open up) should you rip a hose or pipe loose? I also fully extend my power chord. It is also kept off the ground. To me, it stays cooler, cleaner, out of any water, and no chance of being a ground point for lighting.
They are designed to automatically shut off the flow if the gas is escaping to fast.
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