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Old 07-11-2015, 09:05 PM   #81
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I would certainly suggest anyone who is scared to use this legal well tested product, not to do so. I usually run 62 or so when the law limits me to 55. I guess I am just an outlaw, living wild and dangerous...
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Old 07-11-2015, 10:00 PM   #82
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I think we can all agree it is always best to use the proper receptacle for the plug and amperage we need. In my experience, at least in the west, campgrounds have many more 30 amp sights than 50 amp sights. With rigs getting bigger it is much more often that a 50 amp rig needs to use a 30 amp sight, than a 30 amp rig using a 50 amp sight. That being said, yes, you can use a dog bone in a pinch..... I know of no one that would recommend doing so on a regular or long term basis. At the campgrounds I have worked at we have a maintenance schedule of checking plugs for tight fit and also for proper voltage etc. We have very few cases of a 30 or 50 amp plug being unusable and thus needing to use an improper receptacle size. I would hope this is the case at most good campgrounds. It is in everyone's best interest to have proper maintenance, of both the campground pedestal and the RV's cord/plug/ systems.

If you find a receptacle that does not operate properly I ask you report it, if management doesn't handle it as an important maintenance issue then I would choose not to stay at that campground. I always wonder if the stuff I can see is left unattended, what about the stuff I can't see...


Perhaps it's time to put this thread to bed...think we all have had an opportunity to express our opinions, both professionally and personally.
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Old 07-12-2015, 05:50 AM   #83
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Originally Posted by Tim L View Post
I would certainly suggest anyone who is scared to use this legal well tested product, not to do so. I usually run 62 or so when the law limits me to 55. I guess I am just an outlaw, living wild and dangerous...
It may be well tested But I will ask how many 18 or 16 gauge extension cords are purchased and used by homeowners that plug them into 15 amp circuits and have resulted in house fires due to the wire being overloaded, overheated and the breaker didn't trip??

Copied from the 2014 NEC

ARTICLE 551 - RECREATIONAL VEHICLES AND RECREATIONAL VEHICLE PARKS

(3) Units with Two to Five 15- or 20-Ampere Branch
Circuits. Recreational vehicles wired in accordance with
55 I .42eC) shall have an attachment plug that shall be 2-pole,
3-wire grounding type, rated 30 amperes, 125 volts, conforming
to the configuration shown in Figure 551.46(C)(1) intended
for use with units rated at 30 amperes, 125 volts.
Informational Note: Complete details of this configuration
can be found in ANSTINEMA WD 6-2002, National Elec-
2014 Edition NATIONAL ELECTRICAL CODE
Receptacles Caps
(4) Units with 50-Ampere Power-Supply Assembly. Recreational
vehicles having a power-supply assembly rated
50 amperes as permitted by 55 I .42(D) shall have a 3-pole,
4-wire grounding-type attachment plug rated 50 amperes,
125/250 volts, conforming to the configuration shown in
Figure 551.46(C)(1).
Informational Note: Complete details of this configuration
can be found in ANSIINEMA WD 6-2002, Standardfor Dimensions
(~f Attachment Plugs and Receptacles, Figure 14.50.
(D) Labeling at Electrical Entrance. Each recreational
vehicle shall have a safety label with the signal word
WARNING in minimum 6-mm (I/4-in.) high letters and
body text in minimum 3-mm (Ys-in.) high letters on a contrasting
background. The safety label shall be affixed to the
exterior skin. at or near the point of entrance of the powersupply
cord(s), and shall read, llsing one of the following
warnings, as appropriate:
WARNING
THIS CONNECTION IS FOR I 10-1 25-VOLT AC,
60 HZ, __ AMPERE SUPPLY.
or
THIS CONNECTION IS FOR 208Y /120-VOLT or
120/240-VOLT AC, 3-POLE, 4-WIRE,
60 HZ, AMPERE SUPPLY.
DO NOT EXCEED CIRCUIT RATING.
EXCEEDING THE CIRCUIT RATING MAY CAUSE A
FIRE AND RESULT IN DEATH OR SERIOUS INJURY.
The correct ampere rating shall be marked in the blank
space.
70-519
What the above means is a 30 amp cord is to be plugged into a 30 amp receptacle and a 50 amp cord is to be plugged into a 50 amp receptacle.
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Old 07-12-2015, 06:19 AM   #84
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copied from a recent Jayco Owners Manual


120-VOLT (30 AMP) AC SYSTEM (IF SO EQUIPPED)






Your recreation vehicle may be equipped with a 30 amp 120-volt 60hz AC electrical


system. The entire system is designed to operate on 1 leg of 120-volt power at a maximum


current flow of 30 amperes.


Exposure to voltages higher or lower than a nominal 120-volts will damage or shorten the


service life of the electrical system and appliances. The 30 amp 120-volt 60hz AC


electrical system can be powered by the 120-volt 60hz utilities found in RV campgrounds


or by 120-volt 60hz generator power.


The following electrical components will only operate when your motorhome is connected


to shore or generator power: 120 to 12-volt power converter, air conditioner, refrigerator,


microwave oven, television(s), home theater system(s), electric water heater, washer,


dryer, fireplace, and appliances plugged into convenience receptacles.




30-AMP POWER CORD (IF SO EQUIPPED)

WARNING

Make certain the external power source you connect the power cord to is a properly

wired 30 amp NEMA TT-30 RV receptacle and not 240 volt AC.


WARNING
Circuit breakers and fuses will not offer complete protection of the electrical system


in the event of power surge or voltage spike.




WARNING

PLUG INTO 30-AMP SERVICE ONLY.







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Old 07-12-2015, 09:13 AM   #85
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Like I said, me and the thousands who use the extremely dangerous adapter are living on the wild side. We are trained professionals, and you should never try such a feat.
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Old 07-12-2015, 11:01 AM   #86
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Look, all smart ********** aside, the ORIGINAL POST was regarding Burned cord plugs. The root cause of the burned plugs on the end of your power cord is DEFECTIVE/WORN 30A receps at the pedestal. Now, WAGS999 is absolutely correct, and parks SHOULD maintain these better, and you should be able to have them replace the recep. However, it is extremely apparent, reading other RV boards with the same complaints, or reading lots of reviews on the 50A to 30A dogbone, that there are a bunch of worn and loose 30A outlets out there, and there are a bunch of people who pull into a park late in the evening, find a bad recep and have no way of remedying the situation. When this happens, IF the 50A recep is in good shape, there is extremely, and I do mean extremely little risk in using the adapter. In fact, the ONLY risk, is that your cord would somehow, spontaneously short out, and if this extremely remote risk were to occur, the 50A would trip, and EVERYTHING else inside the rig is protected by the 30A. It is the purpose for which the millions of adapters manufactured and sold were obviously intended, and, as far as I can find, there is NOT ONE SINGLE lawsuit, disaster story, or firsthand account of any problem or damage.

The burned and melted cord plugs are caused by the bad recep arcing inside, and a normal breaker will NOT trip for this. Breakers trip when their current rating is exceeded/overloaded. Bad receps arc create heat, and melt plugs, and start fires, without overloading a breaker, and IN FACT, MOST house fires are caused by this occurrence. That is why the NEC mandated the use of ARC FAULT BREAKERS in bedrooms a few years ago, and why the code in most areas now requires arc fault breakers for most outlets in the home.

IF the parks would install arc fault breakers in the pedestal, they would find worn receps. However, most electricians I know will tell you that arc fault breakers are a major PITA, and phantom trip often. Hopefully the industry will improve the technology, as again, the vast majority of house fires and consequent injuries and deaths are caused by worn arcing items, and NOT overloaded cords.

In the mean time, if I plug into a nice tight 30A recep, I wouldn't use he adapter, however, if I run into a worn loose 30A recep, and the 50A is in good shape, I will not hesitate to use the adapter, and protect my cord and plug from being burned and melted, and keep low voltage problems from damaging my AC compressor motor.

And, as this is my final post on the subject, I would urge people to use their own common sense, and do their own independent research on the topic, and make your own decisions. Happy Camping!!!
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Old 07-12-2015, 11:01 AM   #87
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I guess you as a trained professional know much better than the educated Engineers with the NEC and Jayco. You asked for the information from the NEC its been provided and you still can't stand being told that you were wrong. As I said using a 50 to 30 adaptor is an invention for disaster to happen.
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Old 07-12-2015, 11:22 AM   #88
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[QUOTE=Tim L;320515]Two things: Could you please give a citation for the NEC prohibiting the use of the 50A to 30A RV adapter./QUOTE]

I have provided information from the NEC and also from Jayco's Owners manual.

You asked for it and all you can say is others use it and it is legal and tested. But you have not provided any documents to back up you opinion. Is it because you can't? You say its fine to use it Now back it up.
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Old 07-12-2015, 01:35 PM   #89
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Actually, what you posted, Article 551 of the NEC, is requirements for the cord and plug RV manufacturers must use, and the warning they must provide to consumers. It DOES NOT mention the adapter, and certainly does not explicitly prohibit it by code or law.

Elsewhere, in the 2014 NEC, the code does EXPLICITLY allow protection of a 12 AWG or larger flexible extension cord with plug (not hard wired) to be protected and used on a 50A circuit. My flexible extension cord to my trailer is 10 AWG, and is more than adequate under the NEC to be protected by the 50A breaker.

Lastly: read the manufacturers description on Home Depot's site. Pay particular attention to the approved use!

"The Rodale 1 ft. Recreational Vehicle Adapter Cord offers you a convenient way to adapt power sources for required use. The cord is approved for outdoor use with RVs.
Provides a convenient way to adapt power sources
Adapts 50-amp male power to 30-amp female power
Approved for outdoor use with RVs"
Constructed with heavy-duty 10-gauge cable

Okay, bottom line is do what you want, and believe what you wish. I know you must be smarter than all of the adapter manufacturers and every major retailer in the country.

Have a great day, happy camping, and post what you will, as I will reply no further.
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Old 07-12-2015, 02:00 PM   #90
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OK you say elsewhere in the NEC. So what section, article does it say that in the NEC.
How about you post is so all can see
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Old 07-12-2015, 03:00 PM   #91
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This has been an informative and entertaining thread, but in my opinion, it's morphed into....

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Old 07-12-2015, 03:19 PM   #92
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I have owned a popup, Hybrid, and now a TT with 30A electric connections since 2007. I am certain we have more than 100 nights in 15+ state parks, as well as a few KOA like establishments. I'm not sure that I could tell what a worn out 30A receptacle would look or feel like. Can you provide some guidance?
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Old 07-12-2015, 03:34 PM   #93
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It feels loose when you plug it in. It will get hot enough to melt the rubber around the conductor plugs, even if you are not exceeding the current capacity.

If it feels hot or even real warm and you have no other alternative get the CG maintenance to assign a new site.
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Old 07-12-2015, 03:35 PM   #94
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I personally have not seen one where you could visually tell it was bad, although I have read quite a few reviews and posts where people have seen them visually burnt/melted. The ones I have encountered are by feel. The Male plug should fit snugly into the receptacle. If it fits like a hotdog in a hallway, that is not good. One example I had on a recent trip was to plug it in (took NO force) and when I let it go, it literally fell out. I could slide it in and out of the recep with a couple of ounces of force. The only way I could have kept it plugged in would have been to put foam or something behind it and shut the door over it!

Best thing I could suggest, is go to Home Depot, Lowes, ACE, etc., and pick up a male 30A and the corresponding female Recep plug and try them. That is how a good connection feels!!!
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Old 07-12-2015, 03:46 PM   #95
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This thread is skating close to being closed due to the contentious back and forth arguments. If the tone does not de-escalate it will be closed.
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Old 07-12-2015, 04:23 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim L View Post
I personally have not seen one where you could visually tell it was bad, although I have read quite a few reviews and posts where people have seen them visually burnt/melted. The ones I have encountered are by feel. The Male plug should fit snugly into the receptacle. If it fits like a hotdog in a hallway, that is not good. One example I had on a recent trip was to plug it in (took NO force) and when I let it go, it literally fell out. I could slide it in and out of the recep with a couple of ounces of force. The only way I could have kept it plugged in would have been to put foam or something behind it and shut the door over it!

Best thing I could suggest, is go to Home Depot, Lowes, ACE, etc., and pick up a male 30A and the corresponding female Recep plug and try them. That is how a good connection feels!!!
But the second time you use it, it will become "looser" . It is little different than any standard plug in your home...shouldn't have to fight it to get it to plug in. Yes it should stay by itself...I have experienced more bad plugs, than bad receptacles...
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Old 07-12-2015, 04:30 PM   #97
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I have owned a popup, Hybrid, and now a TT with 30A electric connections since 2007. I am certain we have more than 100 nights in 15+ state parks, as well as a few KOA like establishments. I'm not sure that I could tell what a worn out 30A receptacle would look or feel like. Can you provide some guidance?
It is really a non issue in my opinion. I have RVed for about 50 years on an off...for the last 7 about 6 months a year.. I don't ever remember having an issue with a receptacle. In the campgrounds I have worked at I could count on one finger the bad receptacles we have had to change...and it was from abuse by a guest (he admitted).

Much more likely is a 50 amp rig will have to use a 30 amp site, as, 50 amp sites are far less available than 30 amp sites.

To be honest, I don't even carry a 50 amp dog bone...never needed it never will. I would plug into a 20 amp receptacle before I would need a 50 amp plug... Also, #10 wire is only rated for 30 amps...nothing will change that.

I suggest going by what your RV manufacturer recommends. Use the proper plug, in that rare situation where a receptacle may be bad, then have the campground repair it or switch you to a different site. I have seen many more bad plugs, than bad receptacles...
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Old 07-12-2015, 07:30 PM   #98
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Wags999, You have a lot of experience, so in your opinion, what causes all of the bad plugs?
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Old 07-12-2015, 10:57 PM   #99
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I think the "blame" for "bad" receptacles is split between guest abuse and poor maintenance on the campgrounds part. Guests will plug in their RV with the breakers on, which can cause arcing, which causes pitting on both the plug and receptacles. Also pulling plugs out by the cord, which can break the outer portion of the plug. Poorly maintained cords with bent or pitted plugs all can cause issues.


Add to that, campgrounds that do not have a maintenance schedule of inspections of the plugs, spigots, cable connections, sewer connections etc., all add to the slow decline of acceptable connections.


Contrary to what many may believe campgrounds as a whole are not huge money makers..Not many are aware that a campground may have to pay (local laws) a monthly fee just to have a sewer connection, even if it never gets used. Multiply that by the number of sites, and 12 months a year ( even tho the campground may only be open 6 months) and it's a big cost. Some communities actually charge a per guest "service fee" which is part of the cost of the CG. Pools are very expensive to not only build but to maintain. These pools are not your home pool and cost well into 6 figures to build, and thousands to maintain.


As with many of us, preventative maintenance is something that can be delayed...even tho is just costs more down the road. Not unlike what we may do on our own rig...why replace the plug, it can make it another year. We can all see ourselves in these situations.


So Tim I guess it's no "Ones" fault and yet "Everyone's fault" that their are issues with not only Electric but water, sewers, cable TV etc. Too many people feel they have no part in helping to maintain a campground. They do things to a CG that they would never do to their own property. Treat a CG as you would your own property. If you see a problem, report it to management..If they don't take care of the issue then why go back?


You would be shocked at some of the things guest will do to a CG, things they never would do at home. All these cost money, which, obviously has to come from you the guest. Only government can lose money on every transaction and still survive. By taxing everyone more. Public campgrounds can charge much less in part because they pay no taxes, be it real estate, income, personal property etc. They also have other sources of income other than the CG.. Also, their is no cost to obtain the property to build the CG, since it is often part of a larger park.


Hope I have not rambled too much, and that I was able to answer the original question somewhat.
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Old 07-12-2015, 11:15 PM   #100
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Very well said! Also, excellent point with plugging in with breakers on! Most of the times I arrive at a park, ALL of the breakers in the pedestal are ON. I kill them all, plug in, and then switch on just the breaker/s I need. Then, when I am leaving, I kill the breakers, and THEN unplug! Not following this procedure is an excellent candidate for damaging Plugs and Sockets, and either becomes a vicious cycle for the rest.
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