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Old 07-01-2016, 09:30 AM   #11
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My RV outlet is on the side of the garage. I can not get the trailer close enough due to the septic placement. So I have a 50 foot RV 30A extension cord I got from Amazon to power my trailer. Probably could have gotten away with a 25 footer, but it was only a couple buck more for the 50 so I went with that one.

Definitely check that your outlet is a 120V 30A not a 240V 30A. 240V will kill your trailer.
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Old 07-01-2016, 10:21 AM   #12
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Take the standard 110 outlet you have close to the TT and switch it out to a 30amp RV outlet. Find the run of wire that is in your fuse box for that outlet and switch it to a 30amp breaker. Due to the length of the run you may have some voltage drop, but with it being A/C current you will likely be ok.


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Old 07-01-2016, 11:04 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by pman1088 View Post
Take the standard 110 outlet you have close to the TT and switch it out to a 30amp RV outlet. Find the run of wire that is in your fuse box for that outlet and switch it to a 30amp breaker. Due to the length of the run you may have some voltage drop, but with it being A/C current you will likely be ok.
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NO-NO-NO!

DO NOT DO THE ABOVE!!!

This extremely dangerous. The wire for that outlet is either 14 gauge (15 amp) or 12 gauge (20 amp) and can not handle 30 amps. You could burn your house down due to overheating if you draw 30 amps.

NEMA and NFPA codes are put in place for a reason. They specify what wire sizes are required for various amp draws. 30 amp circuits require a minimum of 10 gauge wire (larger for extremely long runs).

This is why you need to be careful with taking advice on a forum. When you get bad advice from someone who doesn't understand codes, ampacity requirements, and common knowledge you put yourself, your family and your property in Jeopardy

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Old 07-01-2016, 11:21 AM   #14
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take the standard 110 outlet you have close to the tt and switch it out to a 30amp rv outlet. Find the run of wire that is in your fuse box for that outlet and switch it to a 30amp breaker. Due to the length of the run you may have some voltage drop, but with it being a/c current you will likely be ok.


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Absolutely not!

Don"t even think about doing this! You will have a fire!
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Old 07-01-2016, 11:34 AM   #15
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NO-NO-NO!

DO NOT DO THE ABOVE!!!
X3 - The MINIMUM wiring for a 30-amp circuit is 10 gauge. House wiring will not be any greater than 12 gauge on an existing 20-amp circuit. EXTREME FIRE HAZARD!!! Do not do this!!!!
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Old 07-01-2016, 11:37 AM   #16
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My advise is correct except for checking the wire in your run to be sure it's up to code. I did exactly as I stated 4 years ago without checking wire size and my house is still standing contrary to DW's dreams.


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Old 07-01-2016, 11:38 AM   #17
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I don't know how you guys can just say that a $700 quote from an electrician is ridiculous. Without being able to see the scope of the work required it is impossible to Internet bid a job.

The main panel may or may not have the extra breaker space or may be already at max capacity. There may be work involved in drilling through top plates in a wall, there may be brick that has to be drilled through. It may be necessary to install conduit, it may require digging a ditch to bury cable, which code where I'm at requires secondary voltage cables be at least 36" deep.

Don't knock the electrician until you work in his boots. Hack advice in electrical wiring has burnt down many structures.

I've worked everything from 230,000kv AC high voltage transmission to 12v DC. I've been in substations when 14,400kv breakers explode. I've been on 14,400 kv when lightning hit. I've been shocked by 480v 3phase due to an unknown backfeed. Been hit by 220v and 120v more than I care. I'm really lucky to be alive. If the lineman I was working with had not seen me get tied into the 480v 3 phase street light circuit and had sense enough to knock me to the ground with a full backswing arm bar I'd probably be pushing up daisies now.

The JEA power co. had the blueprints we were working by. The four known riser poles had been disconnected. We were told by the power company rep our circuit was dead and safe to work on. It was my bosses and my fault because we took his word and did not put a meter on it and check before starting to tear it out. One circuit had been backfed due to a car wreck in 1972 that took out a street light. That light could not be returned to the original circuit, so they line bored under a 4 lane road and backfed it from a riser on the other side of the road. They made an AS Built drawing and turned it in. Nobody ever updated the original drawing. This was located via a micro film search. Fifteen years later when the streetlights on six miles of Blanding Blvd. were updated this mistake almost killed me.

If you do not know what you are doing with electricity Leave it alone! Hire the qualified electrician, even they make mistakes.
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Old 07-01-2016, 11:49 AM   #18
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My advise is correct except for checking the wire in your run to be sure it's up to code. I did exactly as I stated 4 years ago without checking wire size and my house is still standing contrary to DW's dreams.


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Then your house is a fire trap. There's no other way to put it. Sorry to so blunt.

And there's not much point in checking the existing wire run other than to verify that it is 12 gauge, which is required under code for a 20-amp circuit. There's no way it will be the 10 gauge that's required for a 30-amp circuit. As rjhuser said, there's a reason for electrical codes. Trying to provide 30 amp service through wiring that's not heavy enough will cause voltage loss and overheating, which is absolutely a fire hazard.
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Old 07-01-2016, 11:55 AM   #19
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X3 - The MINIMUM wiring for a 30-amp circuit is 10 gauge. House wiring will not be any greater than 12 gauge on an existing 20-amp circuit. EXTREME FIRE HAZARD!!! Do not do this!!!!
x4
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Old 07-01-2016, 12:23 PM   #20
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My advise is correct except for checking the wire in your run to be sure it's up to code. I did exactly as I stated 4 years ago without checking wire size and my house is still standing contrary to DW's dreams.


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Pman1088,

Consider yourself a very, very lucky person that you have not had a fire.
The only way you have gotten by with this setup is that you have not drawn over 20 amps for any length of time. If you indeed are drawing close to 30 Amps using 12AWG for any good length of time your insulation on your wires have started to melt. After melt will be fire. Any size breaker larger than a 20 Amp defeats the entire purpose of the breaker. You have been lucky and I seriously encourage you to discontinue the use of this circuit as you have it.
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