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Old 05-05-2016, 01:00 PM   #1
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Power tongue jack disconnect

We have a 2016 Jayflight 34RSBS setup at a permanent site.
The unit came with a power tongue jack as part of the package.
I'd like to disconnect the power to the jack to avoid accidental or intentional activation of the jack, so it does not mess up the leveling.
Took a brief look and could not find an in-line fuse. The power wire traces back to other wiring (in a large loom) and it goes into the frame. The unit also has solar prep (not using) and not sure if the hot (red) leads on the positive side of the battery are for that or the jack. 3 hot (red) which I'll assume the larger one is for the coach. Nothing is marked.
My next check will be the main fuse/breaker panel to see if the jack fuse is there. I'd prefer the fuse removal option over the battery disconnect.
Thanks
Mike
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Old 05-05-2016, 01:25 PM   #2
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Just a quick idea, at a spot on the power wire that's maybe out of sight, cut it, and crimp on a pair of insulated male-female spade or bullet connectors. That way if you want to power it back up, just make the connection again.
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Old 05-05-2016, 03:19 PM   #3
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I have never heard anyone with this concern. Most all TT's made in the last 3 or 4 years come with a power tongue jack. Not sure how it would turn itself on and cause the problem you seem concerned about. Someone could mess with the up down switch with out knowing what they were doing I suppose but there are a lot of things that you don't want people messing with, the slide switches come to mind, but again never heard anyone adding a cutoff switch.
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Old 05-05-2016, 03:26 PM   #4
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I added a disconnect since my trailer sits exposed from our back lane. I didn't want anyone messing with the height and thus adding stress to the levelers. Someone could also turn on the LED light.

Different people have different concerns...
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Old 05-05-2016, 03:27 PM   #5
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A couple things you can do.

1. Install a disconnect switch for your house batteries. That will shut off all 12V DC power to all circuits on the trailer - including the tongue jack. (This is what I have done - for the same concerns while in storage.)

2. Remove the in-line fuse to the jack, which shuts off the power to the jack, only. (The automotive square, spade-type fuse is housed in a 1-1/2" square holder in the jack power supply line. It is difficult to find.)
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Old 05-05-2016, 03:29 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scoutr2 View Post
A couple things you can do.

1. Install a disconnect switch for your house batteries. That will shut off all 12V DC power to all circuits on the trailer - including the tongue jack. (This is what I have done - for the same concerns while in storage.)

2. Remove the in-line fuse to the jack, which shuts off the power to the jack, only.
If you install a disconnect switch, it might be wise to leave the electric brakes out of this loop.
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Old 05-05-2016, 03:37 PM   #7
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If you install a disconnect switch, it might be wise to leave the electric brakes out of this loop.
Not sure why you say this - and would be a nightmare to try to accomplish, for no good reason. The brakes should not be engaged when parked. They only need power when you want to engage the brakes - that is, when driving.

A battery disconnect switch for the entire trailer is something over half the people here use, I would bet.

Just my experienced opinion.
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Old 05-05-2016, 03:43 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scoutr2 View Post
Not sure why you say this - and would be a nightmare to try to accomplish, for no good reason. The brakes should not be engaged when parked. They only need power when you want to engage the brakes - that is, when driving.

A battery disconnect switch for the entire trailer is something over half the people here use, I would bet.

Just my experienced opinion.
When I installed my battery disconnect switch, the wire for my brakes was right there. I figured it would be best to leave it connected to my battery in case I started driving and forgot to turn the disconnect switch back on.
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Old 05-05-2016, 03:47 PM   #9
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When I installed my battery disconnect switch, the wire for my brakes was right there. I figured it would be best to leave it connected to my battery in case I started driving and forgot to turn the disconnect switch back on.
I'm not sure - because I have no schematic in front of me - but if you somehow routed that brake wire differently, you may have no emergency brakes in the event of a disconnect. OR worse - you could have wired them permanently ON, which would drain your battery in no time, keeping the brake magnets energized.
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Old 05-05-2016, 04:00 PM   #10
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I'm not sure - because I have no schematic in front of me - but if you somehow routed that brake wire differently, you may have no emergency brakes in the event of a disconnect. OR worse - you could have wired them permanently ON, which would drain your battery in no time, keeping the brake magnets energized.
All I can say, is that I didn't change any of the wiring from factory. The wire I'm referring to was always connected separately to the battery. All I did was add a physical disconnect to the power tongue jack and to the trailer's power system to eliminate parasitic drain on the battery. The brake wire, I'm assuming, sends power to the brakes when a signal from the brake controller is received. The electric brakes work perfectly and are not energized while parked.

This may be taking the topic away from the original poster...sorry.
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