Purpose of the enclosed underbelly?

[bluegill1]

What is the main purpose of the "enclosed underbelly".
I originally thought it was part of the thermal package until I saw a new 2018 RSBS with the thermal pkg (had the sticker by the door) but it did not have the underbelly enclosed.(unless the dealer took it off for access?)
I noticed they are not "totally sealed", meaning critters such as a mouse could make his way in there pretty easy.
I think I heard that it makes it a bit more wind friendly while traveling(not sure that makes THAT much of a difference).
Don't get me wrong, I like the appearance and the whole idea of an enclosed underbelly.
But if a mouse gets in there, how do you get um out?
How do you access to get to problem areas(leaks)?
Do you take the whole thing off? Does it start sagging after time?
Does it rip easily?
Has Jayco been doing this for a long time or is it fairly new?
So, back to original question, what is the main purpose of it?

Thank you

[DanNJanice]

Originally Posted by bluegill1

What is the main purpose of the "enclosed underbelly".
I originally thought it was part of the thermal package until I saw a new 2018 RSBS with the thermal pkg (had the sticker by the door) but it did not have the underbelly enclosed.(unless the dealer took it off for access?)
I noticed they are not "totally sealed", meaning critters such as a mouse could make his way in there pretty easy.
I think I heard that it makes it a bit more wind friendly while traveling(not sure that makes THAT much of a difference).
Don't get me wrong, I like the appearance and the whole idea of an enclosed underbelly.
But if a mouse gets in there, how do you get um out?
How do you access to get to problem areas(leaks)?
Do you take the whole thing off? Does it start sagging after time?
Does it rip easily?
Has Jayco been doing this for a long time or is it fairly new?
So, back to original question, what is the main purpose of it?

Thank you

On most trailers with an enclosed underbelly, they direct part of the heat into the underbelly to prevent water pipe freezing.

[ALJO]

The underbelly can be made water intrusion and mouse proof from the outside, but there is still a door or you can bring it in with goods. But its main purpose is to extend camping experience. I wouldn't want myself a RV without underbelly, just because of road debris etc.

[Mustang65]

Originally Posted by ALJO

The underbelly can be made water intrusion and mouse proof from the outside, but there is still a door or you can bring it in with goods. But its main purpose is to extend camping experience. I wouldn't want myself a RV without underbelly, just because of road debris etc.

After 5 years and 25K miles not a cut or hole made by road debri in the underbelly. The only ones are the holes that I made for SOLAR, Wi-Fi cable, and Cellular booster antenna cable. Maybe I am just lucky. Believe me there was a lot of road debri out there....

Don

My Registry

RVing with SOLAR

[norty1]

Many reasons.
Most larger rigs have the tanks and water lines inside it with a heat duct that should keep it from freezing if you have your furnace running.
EDIT: Mine has the Glacier pkg.

My rig has 3 rather large holes that came from factory so that I can access the parts that are prone to need access.

I like the fact that road/ mud spray does not coat the underside when towing.

There is thind foil insulator on mine above the underbelly material. If it's Coroplast, it's pretty sturdy against rocks and such.

Most people get some spray foam and seal the small cracks and places that could scoop air when underway. We have never had a problem with mice with this rig. Not so with my last one. Don't put out rat poison and don't ask me how I know.

[ctbailey]

Originally Posted by bluegill1

What is the main purpose of the "enclosed underbelly".

I originally thought it was part of the thermal package until I saw a new 2018 RSBS with the thermal pkg (had the sticker by the door) but it did not have the underbelly enclosed.(unless the dealer took it off for access?)

I noticed they are not "totally sealed", meaning critters such as a mouse could make his way in there pretty easy.

I think I heard that it makes it a bit more wind friendly while traveling(not sure that makes THAT much of a difference).

Don't get me wrong, I like the appearance and the whole idea of an enclosed underbelly.

But if a mouse gets in there, how do you get um out?

How do you access to get to problem areas(leaks)?

Do you take the whole thing off? Does it start sagging after time?

Does it rip easily?

Has Jayco been doing this for a long time or is it fairly new?

So, back to original question, what is the main purpose of it?



Thank you

Yep, the underbelly should be sealed pretty good, because they shoot a duct from the furnace down there. I have emperically verified that the underbelly with a duct drops my freeze protection to 22 degrees F ambient.

Jayco sealed mine very good with spray foam at all the penetrations.

I've never had mice issues, but I also keep an ultra sonic pest repellent plugged in 24/7.

I would prefer to install tank heaters but haven't "needed" them bad enough to drop the coroplast.

I wonder if the "thermal" package is different than the "glacier" package; one having enclosed belly the other not?


Craig Bailey
New Hampshire
Jayflight 32 BHDS
Chevy 2500HD CC

[kayakterp]

I originally wanted the underbelly (this is my first trailer) for cold weather camping but could not dish out the extra money at the time.
Now after reading everyone's experience of not having access to underneath I am glad I don't have it. Too many times we have to check things underneath.
Once my fresh water tank had a metal bracket fall off - with the underbelly I could not see what is happening. This also applies to everything else under trailer.
I plan on having a welder fabricate a bike rack, underbelly would deny access.
Several people have had grey water tanks fall off while camping, again underbelly would be a hindrance

[DanNJanice]

Originally Posted by kayakterp

I originally wanted the underbelly (this is my first trailer) for cold weather camping but could not dish out the extra money at the time.
Now after reading everyone's experience of not having access to underneath I am glad I don't have it. Too many times we have to check things underneath.
Once my fresh water tank had a metal bracket fall off - with the underbelly I could not see what is happening. This also applies to everything else under trailer.
I plan on having a welder fabricate a bike rack, underbelly would deny access.
Several people have had grey water tanks fall off while camping, again underbelly would be a hindrance

These are very good points and definitely the downside of the enclosed underbelly.

[Jagiven]

From what I can tell the enclosed underbelly when the furnace is one keeps the floors a bit warmer, and the tanks from freezing as soon. I do not have an underbelly on out htt. And have camped with the lows in the low 20's and have not had any tank issues. But the floors, they where mighty cool.

The underbelly should help with aerodynamics, as the whole underside is smooth. Most of the early higher fuel efficiency cars had very smooth undersides. All the hoses, cross members and so forth create a little drag.

[01tundra]

Not every TT enclosed underbelly is ducted, ours isn't.

But we got it because it still provides thermal benefits in the winter.

[John H]

Our trailer had the enclosed underbelly option purchased by the previous owner. I do have a small leak underneath somewhere on the fresh water tank that I want to fix and I would like to have a look at all the tank mounts and possibly reinforce them. I like the idea of being able to inspect things under there and may decide to remove the coroplast altogether. If I need to make modifications to the tanks it may be a real pain to make access panels and get it sealed up again.

[ALJO]

It is an easy job to remove the underbelly............yes it is work.
Just start from the front (or back) to midway to remove it. To re-fasten it clamp the end between some 3/4 boards make some type of hook from wire or what ever works for you and use a cable puller to tighten and put the new zip screws with washer back in the same hole. To hold up the black poly-flex use a couple of milk crates with a 2x4 across. This method has worked for me. To seal the whole underbelly use Gorilla Tape and black silicone where needed. The underbelly is strong enough to hold your full water tank temporary if it came loose. I'm sure opinions will differ.

[clubhouse]

It's an option I wanted originally but didn't end up getting it.

I went as far as source sheets of coroplast to fabricate my own.

In the end I didn't do it and really don't miss it. We have camped into the mud-20*s without issue.

My spare tire is kept under the trailer, and this gave me the idea to use some unistrut to fabricate a rack to keep my blue tote under the trailer too.

In the past 5 years I've had to repair my black tank washer, fresh water equalization plumbing and grey tank blade valve. All would require droppsing or cutting some portion of the enclosure.

I doubt I ever buy another trailer, but if I did I'm not sure I would put any value on the enclosed underbelly.

[Studiovette]

My 26bh elite came with it also. Thermal package with enclosed underbelly. I understand the benefits from all the prior posts but have a question. What if your traveling home in freezing temps? Should i run the heat on a low setting to prevent any of the water lines from freezing or should i winterrize with antifreeze prior to leaving the cg? Might be taking a trip for a week in late nov.
Thx

Sent from my LG-LS993 using Tapatalk

[norty1]

I know a few who leave the frigid North headed to florida in Dec. They leave it winterized and sleep in a motel the fist night, then un-winterize it at the 2nd night which is a campground.

I have heard of people who drive with the furnace on but that is not for me. To many things could happen and you would not know until you saw flames or arrived somewhere with frozen pipes.

[Steveii]

I can't find anything from any manufacturer why they enclose and heat it. Heating and keeping everything clean underneath are the obvious reasons but Jayco or none of the other manufactures really specify anything. My suspicion is so they can tell you if you burst a pipe camping in the winter it's your fault because the underbelly wasn't designed for that.

If anyone has found any specific data I'd be curious to know what is says. Like what is the added R value and how much cold can it take before it will freeze. Thatsomething they should be providing there customers so they know the limits of the trailer/rv before buying it.

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by Steveii

I can't find anything from any manufacturer why they enclose and heat it.

Right from JAYCO'S web site:

Climate Shield
Extend your camping season with the Jayco Climate Shield. It protects against extreme heat and extreme freezing—even in temperatures as high as 100 degrees or as low as zero degrees (Fahrenheit).

[RAurand]

Originally Posted by Grumpy

Right from JAYCO'S web site:

Climate Shield
Extend your camping season with the Jayco Climate Shield. It protects against extreme heat and extreme freezing—even in temperatures as high as 100 degrees or as low as zero degrees (Fahrenheit).

Isn't there a difference between thermal package and climate sheild?

[Steveii]

Originally Posted by Grumpy

Right from JAYCO'S web site:

Climate Shield
Extend your camping season with the Jayco Climate Shield. It protects against extreme heat and extreme freezing—even in temperatures as high as 100 degrees or as low as zero degrees (Fahrenheit).

Thanks for sharing that. Jayco also has a glacier package. Do you know if they have posted any test data for that?