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Old 01-22-2012, 12:46 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by norty1 View Post
I did some checking and I have my figures mixed up. The additional wt of duel pane glass is in the 100 - 150 lb range. The additional cost is in the $1000. range or a little more. They are touted by those that have them helping with outside noise.

Personally, I would never consider them for my style of camping.
Thanks for that update. I could certainly deal with only 100-150 lb.
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Old 01-22-2012, 12:58 PM   #12
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After having to repair the stabilizer jacks on my 330 there is a small little woodruff pin on the shaft motor gear I would not put any extra pressure on the motor once you have your jacks down.It looks like a weak link.I would not trust jacks to lift up trailer...
That is good to know. I don't actually want to lift the trailer for the sake of lifting it. But lifting it an inch or so would let me know the stabs are taking the full weight of that end instead of only part of it. Oh well, there are aftermarket electric stabs that might do the job although they cost and arm and a leg or two.

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Originally Posted by novaplum View Post
...I'm happy with my awning toppers other than having the sag in when it rains I just wish you could take up some of the slack in material to have water run off better than pooling up,or having to prop up something under them.
I've heard of people using everything from PVC stands to beachballs (someone even makes an inflatable wedge shaped pillow for the job) to keep slide toppers from pooling water. I saw a video once (and I'm still kicking myself for not bookmarking it) where someone stacked sheets of rigid foam insulation under the toppers to keep them from pooling and flapping. One bonus would be additional insulation on top of the poorly insulated slide roof (only R7 foil; I've yet to see a slide on any RV that had decent insulation on top or bottom). I've thought of doing a variation of the foam sheets. If the space was completely filled with hollow foam boxes that fit the contours of the roof and topper, they would support the topper, insulate the roof, weigh less, cost less to make, and keep critters like bird, wasps, and small bears from building nests under the topper (only the gable ends would have to seal up precisely). They would be relatively easy to shove into place when setting up and push or pull out when tearing down. Finding a place for them when on the road might be a bit challenging.
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Old 01-22-2012, 02:00 PM   #13
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On my old trailer I had single pane windows. I had solar screens made that snapped on all 4 corners & cover the entire window. They blocked out 85% of the uv.They also helped kept the trailer cool in the summer & warmer in the winter.
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Old 01-24-2012, 02:28 PM   #14
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We have the 330rlts and our slide toppers were factory installed. The air does a good job, but if you need supercool you may want the second air conditioner. We added a new mattress( ours was upgraded mattress and the bigger air conditioner ).
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Old 01-24-2012, 06:36 PM   #15
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Our 28.5 RLS has dual pane windows. We have one 15k A/C. If our trailer is in the shade at 100 degrees, the inside will be cool; in full sun, it is cooler than outside but not as cool as normal.

The dual panes help on insulation, noise, and condensation and I'm glad we ordered them.
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Old 01-24-2012, 06:55 PM   #16
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Considering where I live, two heat pumps and dual pane windows are a must.

Rather than solar screens like bounder suggested (good idea, btw!), I've strongly considered putting conventional RV window awnings on all the windows except the ones on the sides of the slides.

The jury is still out on slide toppers (looking for an easier or more durable alternative) but if I were to order right this instant, I would get them. Alternatives I've considered include:

A solid, insulated awning hinged to the side of the TT that could be folded down when the slides are in.

A regular awning that would cover half or all of each side of the TT and would extend over the slides. The advantage of that would be I could pull the awnings in if the wind got up without having to pull in the slides. Access for work on the roof (sealing , etc.) would be easier since all I would need to do is pull in the awning instead of removing an entire slide topper. Swim noodles on the top edges of the slides would protect the awning fabric.
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