Rear of Ram Pickup Squats

[MuskokaGuy]

Coil suspension is the problem .. well documented that they are a problem in towing and everyone who has coils MUST put in air bags to give you the strength you need for towing and eliminating rear end 'drag' or 'drop' .. well documented the problem with coil springs.

[LiftedAWDAstro]

Originally Posted by MuskokaGuy

Coil suspension is the problem .. well documented that they are a problem in towing and everyone who has coils MUST put in air bags to give you the strength you need for towing and eliminating rear end 'drag' or 'drop' .. well documented the problem with coil springs.

Not really true. Coils work awesome for towing. And they work awesome for ride comfort when the truck is empty. Of course my truck is a 2500 so the coils are a lot stronger than the 1500's. If you are talking about the 1500's being soft, then yes they are but not everyone who hauls with one "has" to put air bags on their truck! That is way too much of a generalized statement.

[MuskokaGuy]

Originally Posted by LiftedAWDAstro

Not really true. Coils work awesome for towing. And they work awesome for ride comfort when the truck is empty. Of course my truck is a 2500 so the coils are a lot stronger than the 1500's. If you are talking about the 1500's being soft, then yes they are but not everyone who hauls with one "has" to put air bags on their truck! That is way too much of a generalized statement.

Hey check this out.. I am talking about towing! .. https://www.generalspringkc.com/What...pri_s/3098.htm

[LiftedAWDAstro]

Not sure what that link is for...they discuss the pros and cons to both leafs and coils.

[bap]

Change your coil springs out. I put these springs from TuffTruck and a heavier sway bar from Helwig on my 2013 Ram 1500 Quad Cab and it made a huge difference on handling hauling my camper and equipment trailer. They are variable rate springs, so empty ride is about the same. Pretty easy to install, and once on, no adjustments needed.
https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index...ducts_id=18391

[MuskokaGuy]

Originally Posted by LiftedAWDAstro

Not sure what that link is for...they discuss the pros and cons to both leafs and coils.

here you go .. 'quotes' from the article .. 1. coil springs are not as sturdy as leaf springs and therefore not as practical for heavier trucks. 2. leaf springs reduce the sway of a truck along uneven terrain. 3. leaf springs will give your vehicle the needed support and flexibility to bear the variable ups and downs. 4.Without leaf springs to offer your vehicle the necessary rear support, the back of your vehicle could end up dragging along the pavement, especially if the backload is heavy. 5.any task that involves hauling sofas, refrigerators and other heavy furniture could leave you with flat rear tires and a sagging rear bumper if not for the support of the leaf springs. 6. [B][B]Towing trailers and other large items can be especially taxing on your vehicle as you board on-ramps and drive along hillsides. As challenging as inclines can be to the rear of your vehicle, the challenge is multiplied when you have large, bulky items in tow. Simply put, if you don't have leaf springs or similar rear-suspension support, do not even think about towing boats or trailers. 7.

[ShawnR]

I put SumoSprings on my 2017 F150 to reduce proposing. I installed the 1500 lb springs without the spacer so they don't affect the unloaded ride often. I chose them over airbags because I wanted the lower maintenance option. I chose them over Timbrens because I wanted a little softer helper spring to keep the ride comfortable.

[kblast523]

Originally Posted by ShawnR

I put SumoSprings on my 2017 F150 to reduce proposing. I installed the 1500 lb springs without the spacer so they don't affect the unloaded ride often. I chose them over airbags because I wanted the lower maintenance option. I chose them over Timbrens because I wanted a little softer helper spring to keep the ride comfortable.

My 2015 F-150 SCrew began 'porpoising' at about 12k miles, load or no load. I took the right rear shock off the vehicle and to a local Ford dealer. I was informed, if it's not leaking fluid, it's not covered under warranty. It had ZERO resistance in either direction. O'Really's and Advance both told me they didn't have "2015 Ford truck shocks" in stock, and since we were in 2016, they probably would not be available for a year or two. I did a little research and found 2014 and earlier F-150 shocks bolt right up...nothing changed except maybe the valving because of the diet Ford put the truck on. I ended up purchasing a pair of KYB Performance gas shocks. Ended porpoising, improved rough surface ride, handling and control, and yes-it firmed things up a bit. Only got 20k miles out of factory equipment Hankook tires, replacement Yokohamas have 25k and will make 40-45k. Part of that was because of rear axle 'tramp'.
I've towed three different trailers with this vehicle since shock replacement, but the blue Sumo's did the trick. And the spacer keeps the Sumos in contact with the rear axle

[Johnynorthland]

I like Firestone air bags with either manual inflation or the compressor system. I also love cargo coil springs by Moog.,(but you need rear coil springs), If your rig is squatting in the rear you are throwing off your brake proportioning, that is your rear brakes are doing most of the stopping and wearing, also your handling and alignment will be off. As someone else mentioned you will sway when towing. And I am guessing your tongue to trailer height is way off too.

Hope this helps,

John

[LiftedAWDAstro]

Originally Posted by MuskokaGuy

here you go .. 'quotes' from the article .. 1. coil springs are not as sturdy as leaf springs and therefore not as practical for heavier trucks. 2. leaf springs reduce the sway of a truck along uneven terrain. 3. leaf springs will give your vehicle the needed support and flexibility to bear the variable ups and downs. 4.Without leaf springs to offer your vehicle the necessary rear support, the back of your vehicle could end up dragging along the pavement, especially if the backload is heavy. 5.any task that involves hauling sofas, refrigerators and other heavy furniture could leave you with flat rear tires and a sagging rear bumper if not for the support of the leaf springs. 6. [B][B]Towing trailers and other large items can be especially taxing on your vehicle as you board on-ramps and drive along hillsides. As challenging as inclines can be to the rear of your vehicle, the challenge is multiplied when you have large, bulky items in tow. Simply put, if you don't have leaf springs or similar rear-suspension support, do not even think about towing boats or trailers. 7.

Do you actually believe this info? It has to be posted as a joke.

[Scott_Trailer_Newbe]

Coils require air bags for heavy tung pulling, period. Would I like coils in my CreMax for normal driving? YES.

[TxTwoSome]

Originally Posted by bap

Change your coil springs out. I put these springs from TuffTruck and a heavier sway bar from Helwig on my 2013 Ram 1500 Quad Cab and it made a huge difference on handling hauling my camper and equipment trailer. They are variable rate springs, so empty ride is about the same. Pretty easy to install, and once on, no adjustments needed.
https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index...ducts_id=18391

These Springs Referenced Above Are What I added On My 2014 1500 And Fixed The Problem For Me.

[tjpolsin]

Originally Posted by rgolding

I used this type of spring assist over the shock to "hold the load", before I put the weight distribution bars on.

My 2009 2500 Chevy would sag sooo much when trying to lift our Arctic Fox 30U off the trailer jack block. The load assist springs around the Shock did the job of not letting it bottom out.

Still use load distribution bars when going down the road, but this type of equipment will not have the headlights pointing for the sky while you hook up.

This response has prompted me to comment on the procedure I use (compared to other folks I've seen) when hooking up my trailer and WDB.

after lining up, I drop the TT hitch onto the ball. Once the hitch is latched, I use the tongue jack to raise the truck and trailer back up (enough so that the jack actually starts to lift the truck. At that point, the WDB are easy to snap up, usually without using a cheater bar.

I have seen some folks drop their hitch onto the TV ball, then raise the TT tongue jack all the way up off the ground. Then break their back on a cheater bar to reef up the WDB into the brackets. In once case, I saw some one using a hydraulic bottle jack on the WDB to help get it into the bracket.

After I told him to use his tongue jack to raise his TV and TT a little bit, his hook up went much smoother.