Recauking

[lx22f/c]

After getting my roof replaced i am rechauking all around the whole trailer.
My question is around the windows there is no caulk. I have no leaks out of the windows and have read other post about pulling the windows to reseal.
Can i just run a bead around the window frame? Seems like that would work? Don't want problems down the road but don't want to do any more work than i have to. I got some proflex caulk from the dealer that fixed the roof and he said just run a bead around the top and down the side just leave a gap at the bottom. Does this sound right
Thanks
Robert

[CJames]

My RV is 14 years old and all the windows are calked.
It's not the best job on earth but it keeps us dry.
Once in a while I check all the seams and cracks just to be sure.

[Donedroolin]

Just an FYI from experience. I had an 07 Trailsport would caulk everything every year or at least check everything. I use to clean out the old caulk from around the window then recaulk. Just use a demp rag or wet finger to go around the window when done. Now my FYI when you reseal around the marker lights. Take the light cover off and pull the screws and caulk the screw holes. Pull one screw, if you see rust its leaking. I did every marker light on my camper, the 07.

[Jagiven]

You do not state what year your TT is, and I am not sure what type of windows you have.

When I was at the camping show this past February, I spoke with a Jayco factory representative that was at the show with the local Jayco dealer, regarding caulking the windows on my 23B. Now I have a smooth fiberglass unit, with some type of rubber gasket. What he told me, is you do not have to caulk this window setup. He stated the rubber gasket is the first layer of defense against the weather, and it is compressed against the fiberglass and the window frame. If you removed the window, the rubber gasket will come out with it. Then there is a secondary gasket, foam like compression gasket that should be replaced if the window is removed. Otherwise, he stated there is no caulking maintenance required on the windows.

Check what type of trailer construction you have and it might be worth a call to your local dealer or to Jayco.

[Crabman]

Here is a recent discussion on a window leak and how lack of caulking was said to be the blame.... My opinion is a window should not have to be caulked or resealed after only a year or two, if it does a better system should be used....


http://www.jaycoowners.com/showthrea...t=window+leaks

[RVhiker]

Originally Posted by Jagiven

You do not state what year your TT is, and I am not sure what type of windows you have.

When I was at the camping show this past February, I spoke with a Jayco factory representative that was at the show with the local Jayco dealer, regarding caulking the windows on my 23B. Now I have a smooth fiberglass unit, with some type of rubber gasket. What he told me, is you do not have to caulk this window setup. He stated the rubber gasket is the first layer of defense against the weather, and it is compressed against the fiberglass and the window frame. If you removed the window, the rubber gasket will come out with it. Then there is a secondary gasket, foam like compression gasket that should be replaced if the window is removed. Otherwise, he stated there is no caulking maintenance required on the windows.

Check what type of trailer construction you have and it might be worth a call to your local dealer or to Jayco.

I think that the Jayco factory representative you spoke with is either in error about Jayco recommendations, or Jayco is saying different things to different people. I wrote Jayco and was told that I should apply a cap of caulk to the upper portion and around the corners of my windows. Regrettably, I do not have a copy of that answer.

In another thread from another poster is this:

Originally Posted by Quick Step

Here is the answer from Jayco I figured I would get. Thinking about it though, regardless if it is a warranty or not maybe Jayco should publish maintenance pics in the manual on how the company expects the owner to properly seal windows,the roof, and other external equipment.

Thank you for taking the time to contact us here at Jayco. Actually the
windows and all exterior seals are to be cap sealed each and every year. So if
this window was not cap sealed it is due to lack of properly maintain the window
seal. These instructions are in the maintenance section of your owners manual.
It is entirely possibly and very likely that the foam seal failed after 2 years
as it should have been sealed over a year ago. In this I must respectfully
decline any warranty assistance as this damage is considered caused by not
properly and regularly maintaining the exterior seals of the unit.
I am sorry I that I am not able to assist you today in this request. If
we can be of assistance to you in other ways in the future, Please feel free to
contact us again at your convenience.

Sincerely,

Jayco Customer Service

It looks like the soft area of the floor is actually softball size along the wall under the window and where the paneling pulled away. Looking underneath the TT it looks like the water escaped out the bottom in a 12-16" wide area also under the window, will know more tomorrow after linoleum is raised. Linoleum is bubbled 18-24" x 6" under the window. I will try to remember to take pictures to post

By the way, there was no rubber gasket sealing my windows, only the sealant impregnated foam gasket --- that Jayco says is likely to fail within two years.

I recommend everybody at least cap seal your windows, and preferably remove them and replace the failing Jayco foam gasket with butyl- and then cap seal them.

[Jagiven]

Jayco might have added a rubber gasket between the 2011 and 2012, or just might just have something due with the type TT I have verses your fiver, I just do not know. It makes sense when you look at my windows. The rubber gasket I would guess is about an inch wide (TT is in storage, so I cannot go out and look at it). I had looked at the owner’s manual last year and thought that their recommendation, in their very generic owner’s manual did not make sense due to my window construction, and that is the reason I asked when I had a chance to corner the rep.

In regards to the OP. I still say look at what you have and contact Jayco for their recommendation.

[RVhiker]

Originally Posted by Jagiven

Jayco might have added a rubber gasket between the 2011 and 2012, or just might just have something due with the type TT I have verses your fiver, I just do not know. It makes sense when you look at my windows. The rubber gasket I would guess is about an inch wide (TT is in storage, so I cannot go out and look at it). I had looked at the owner’s manual last year and thought that their recommendation, in their very generic owner’s manual did not make sense due to my window construction, and that is the reason I asked when I had a chance to corner the rep.

In regards to the OP. I still say look at what you have and contact Jayco for their recommendation.

Maybe Jayco is trying out a new sealing method on some trailers; that would be good news. I agree that the owner's manual is not very helpful to determine exactly what type of maintenance is needed. This forum serves that purpose very well.

[RVhiker]

The current Jay Feather brochure on the Jayco site says that it is equipped with: "Extra-wide corner seals: Prevents leaks on corner molds, baggage/entrance doors and window seals". Anybody know what, exactly, that spec refers to?

[lx22f/c]

Mine is a 07 314 bhds so i am not sure, guess i will just caulk around the window and not worry about it?

[Donedroolin]

I have to look at my 2013 Eagles windows to see if there are the large rubber seals. It is still sitting under the cover, but I think I remember reading in my manual to check them and seal as needed. My old trailer had metal around the windows so I would always reseal them and never had any problems. My Eagle also has the double pane gas windows and I wonder if there different. But really don't forget to check and reseal those marker lights. I had water damage on the front of my 07 because it got in threw the screws. I saw a little bubbleig around the front top marker lights. They were were sealed very well. Asked at a local KZ dealer where I buy my supplies from. He said take the cover off pull a screw ,bet you will find a rusted screw. Sure enough pulled the screws they were rusted. Needless to say I bought the camper putty and did every marker light on my trailer. A little water getting in the wall does allot of damage.

[krackeer]

Originally Posted by lx22f/c

Mine is a 07 314 bhds so i am not sure, guess i will just caulk around the window and not worry about it?

Can't hurt can it!

[JAMMFAM]

Mine has the rubber sealant around it.

[Fyouberg]

Once leaks become apparent, it’s way too late. I’m considering taking my 23RL in once a year to have a thorough sealant inspection/repair done. I’d be interested in what others are paying for this service. I won’t go to Camping World. That’s another story for another time....

[mohok1]

IMHO, you can't over caulk a RV. #1 cause of damage to RV's is water intrusion. I taped around each window and used a clear caulk and you can't really see where I caulked. It took some time but what the heck, I'm retired. I have a $15.00 moisture meter from Amazon for checking for leaks. I had a 94% moisture reading around the rear of a bedroom window. After caulking, it is now in an acceptable range of 10 to 12%. All wood has some moisture content. The drawback on the M/M is that it leaves a couple of small holes in the wall but if you are careful they are hardly visible. Concealed water damage is impossible to detect until a stain or something shows thru, then you are behind the power curve.