A new one for me. Very reduced water flow at all hot faucets only. Cold is normal everywhere.
Cold input line to heater looks good, no kinks etc, from T to heater. Same for output line from heater to T .
Didn’t notice any issue during dewinterization. Didn’t notice issue during campground setup, and I ran hot side to insure tank was full.
My only thought at moment is the check valve on heater output. Can/do they fail as in restricting outflow?
After return home I will disonnect input at heater and check flow. Curious if those check valves can fail in this manner.
Thanks
(snip)
My only thought at moment is the check valve on heater output. Can/do they fail as in restricting outflow?
After return home I will disonnect input at heater and check flow. Curious if those check valves can fail in this manner.
Thanks
I think you are on the mark. Bad check valve. You might tap on it with a wrench to see if you can free-up the mechanism (ball bearing I think). But it would only help diagnose the issue as the valve would need replaced anyway.
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Skids
Was 2015 SLX 195RB
Now Bullet 248RKS
2014 Ford F150 3.5L Ecoboost
What about the hot water heater bypass valve. Our camper has two valves you turn to put hot and cold water in a loop and bypas the hot water tank to winterizing. Maybe those valves are not open fully.
It’s unlikely if it is affecting all of the hot faucets, but you might check the screens to make sure there is no sediment or debris impacting the flow.
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2018 JayFlight SLX 212QBW
1999 Ford F-250 Super Duty Lariat SC, 7.3L PSD, 3.73
Transfer Flow 50 gal aux; Andersen WDH; Prodigy P2
😁 "If a man says he’ll fix something, he will. There’s no need to remind him every 6 months.
Thanks all. I have ordered a valve and am hoping for the easy fix. I did play with bypass valve but everything was working and bypass hadn’t been touched before problem started.
I have had screens clog before, but cold water is fine at the faucets, only hot affected.
Cheap / easy enough, on this camper anyway to change and hope for the best.