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04-07-2019, 07:40 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: ottawa
Posts: 190
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Repacking the wheel bearings
Going to be the 3rd season in towing my Jayco 28bhbe and I think I may attempt to repack the wheel bearings. Trailer is a 2018 and got it 2 years ago so the bearings shouldn't be that bad.
There are alot of YouTube videos on how to do but want to hear from you guys any issues you may encounterd. Any tips that may speed up the process etc..
I assume a 3 ton floor jack use for my car's won't cut it.
Thanks
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04-07-2019, 07:54 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Florissant
Posts: 629
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ibra0078
Going to be the 3rd season in towing my Jayco 28bhbe and I think I may attempt to repack the wheel bearings. Trailer is a 2018 and got it 2 years ago so the bearings shouldn't be that bad.
There are alot of YouTube videos on how to do but want to hear from you guys any issues you may encounterd. Any tips that may speed up the process etc..
I assume a 3 ton floor jack use for my car's won't cut it.
Thanks
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A 3 ton jack WILL work on my 195RB trailer. 3500 ln is max total load. Divide that for two sides makes it 1750 on the jack and actually some for that is on the tongue jack. Do not jack under the axle tube. Use a 2x4 to protect the frame. Use a jack stand. Adjust the brakes too. Be aware that grease should be chosen that is compatible with what is there.
__________________
Skids
Was 2015 SLX 195RB
Now Bullet 248RKS
2014 Ford F150 3.5L Ecoboost
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04-08-2019, 06:51 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: ottawa
Posts: 190
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Thanks, few questions I have
1) do you replace the seal when you remove them? If so which one would work?
2) the wheel bearing nut, how tight should that be? I know it needs to be hand tighten so the wheel spins freely.
3) what high temp grease do you use?
Thanks
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04-08-2019, 08:00 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Black River Falls, Wi
Posts: 1,154
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Not sure which axles are under your trailer but here’s the process I’ve followed for years
Tighten the spindle nut finger tight (until snug) and then with a crescent wrench, tighten the spindle nut another 1/4 turn or about 15 to 20 ft pounds of torque.
Now turn the hub ten revolutions. This will fully seat the bearings
Now loosen the spindle nut very loose, then re-snug to finger tight, and reinstall the cotter pin
__________________
2019 Pinnacle 36 FBTS
2016 Silverado 3500 CC SRW DuraMax/Allison
1975 Corvette for the sunny days n dry roads
2017 RZR for the rainy days n muddy roads
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04-08-2019, 08:29 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: ottawa
Posts: 190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stingray75
Not sure which axles are under your trailer but here’s the process I’ve followed for years
Tighten the spindle nut finger tight (until snug) and then with a crescent wrench, tighten the spindle nut another 1/4 turn or about 15 to 20 ft pounds of torque.
Now turn the hub ten revolutions. This will fully seat the bearings
Now loosen the spindle nut very loose, then re-snug to finger tight, and reinstall the cotter pin
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I will post the label of axel when I get the trailer out of storage. So just I am clear, you tight the nut, spin the wheel 10 times so the bearing can get into place. Once all done you then losses the nut and re-tight? Is there a reason to do the last step?
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04-08-2019, 09:06 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Florissant
Posts: 629
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The dexter website says tighten to 50 ft-lbs while rotating, then loosen, then snug to hand-tight, then back off to line-up cotter pin.
__________________
Skids
Was 2015 SLX 195RB
Now Bullet 248RKS
2014 Ford F150 3.5L Ecoboost
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04-08-2019, 09:09 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Florissant
Posts: 629
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PS, make sure that trailer will not move when jacking. It might be best to keep it hitched to a tow vehicle rather than simply chocked.
__________________
Skids
Was 2015 SLX 195RB
Now Bullet 248RKS
2014 Ford F150 3.5L Ecoboost
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04-08-2019, 12:22 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 9,778
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Rear seals; Replace them. To remove them, usually I punch them with a screwdriver and pry them out. 1st time I did my tt, I removed 1, then went to NAPA and bought four replacements. Just do not punch them over the number.
As for grease, just use any good high temp bearing grease, NAPA can recommend a grease. If you fully clean the bearings, hubs, spindles, you do not need to worry about cross contaminations, as the old grease will be gone.
As for cleaning/removing the old grease. I like using WD40, it breaks down grease really nicely. Just need a lot of paper towels (have a whole roll on hand).
Have a couple cans of brake cleaner on hand. It will remove grease and all the old brake dust inside the brake assembly.
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04-08-2019, 01:19 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: ottawa
Posts: 190
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Thank you, was hoping to know what seals to get for my 2018 28bhbe so I can get them before hand. Anybody know what are the torque specs on the tires nuts?
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04-15-2019, 07:30 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Black River Falls, Wi
Posts: 1,154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ibra0078
Once all done you then losses the nut and re-tight? Is there a reason to do the last step?
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The final step removes the excess load from the bearings allowing them to roll freely with a small amount of clearance. One way to know how well you’ve done is to check wheel hub temperature after driving a few miles. I have one of these in the truck and check hub temps a few times when traveling.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Biltek-No...5f&athena=true
__________________
2019 Pinnacle 36 FBTS
2016 Silverado 3500 CC SRW DuraMax/Allison
1975 Corvette for the sunny days n dry roads
2017 RZR for the rainy days n muddy roads
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04-15-2019, 08:00 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2,650
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Typical some good info here and some not so good. Here is a link to a video Dexter has on repacking bearings, if you follow the steps you will have no problems.
https://youtu.be/GnH-h3W9XvI
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04-15-2019, 08:11 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Kingston
Posts: 1,210
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I use a 10 ton jack. I use a cordless grease gun (invaluable), with two speeds. High is for priming the gun only. When my gun is ready, tires are removed, the slide are in and the RV is jacked up, Dust cap removed and allowing the grease fall onto a cardboard laid below, I spin the drum, running the greased gun on low. Generally, it's a full tube of grease (sometimes more) until the grease looks like new. Remember slow and steady... I do not remove the seals and clean bearings unless the grease pours out of the drum like oil. Or 10,000 miles. I do grease the bearings this way twice a year and have been doing this for 20yrs. Always works for me.
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Don & Donna Stout
E-9 Anchor Clanker
Full timers since 2010
2017 North Point 381 DLQS
2015 F-250 6.7 w/Timbrens
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