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Old 09-09-2019, 05:45 PM   #1
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Replaced thermocouple and electric element, still no hot water

As the title states, I have replaced the thermocouple and pilot burner on the gas side and the electric element on the 120v side and still don't get hot water either way.
I couldn't get the pilot light to stay lit in order to fire the burner for the gas side to heat the water. Which was the issue in the first place.
On the electric side, I have replaced the element, no hot water. I may be using the meter wrong to check for power. Is like to get both working but need one to work before our trip next month.
Thanks for any help.
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Old 09-09-2019, 05:59 PM   #2
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It might be the thermostat or whatever tells the water heater that that the water needs to be heated. Have you checked the fuse for the water heater to make sure it’s good?
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Old 09-09-2019, 06:48 PM   #3
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Yes, I checked the breakers, none were tripped.
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Old 09-09-2019, 07:00 PM   #4
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Possible the control board has given it up. Suspicious that neither side works. You mention the thermostat in the title so I assume you’ve changed that. On LP it needs propane and 12v DC, on electric it needs 110v AC. I think there’s also an over temp shutoff that could be failed. That, the board and thermocouple are the only pieces that play in both modes.
Have you searched YouTube for some diagnostic tips?
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Old 09-09-2019, 07:03 PM   #5
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My old water heater had a problem with the pilot flame plus main flame making noise. I replaced the entire assembly plus the orifice. After that, I had a beautiful pilot and main burner flame.

If nothing is blocked in the gas line to the pilot, it should simply light if there is enough gas pressure. You may have a problem in the control valve. Some valves may let you adjust the pilot flame size which is something you may want to look at.

Without a pilot light the gas side of the equation will be dead in the water. It will not affect the electric side. The only thing that affects both gas and electric is the thermostat or control board, if there is one, which tells the thing to turn on and off.

If you can get to the power leads that feed the electric element, set you volt meter to read AC voltage (120 volts). Turn the unit on. If no voltage appears across the heating element wires, your unit is just not telling it to turn on. If voltage is across it but not heating, the element is bad.

Exercise caution when measuring the 120 volts. Do not allow anything to touch metal and do not touch anything with your body. Just a word of caution as the voltage can wake you up real quick!
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Old 09-09-2019, 07:11 PM   #6
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It may help us more if we knew what kind of water heater you have such as Atwood or Suburban. Are you sure you actually have a pilot light to light? Most dual powered water heaters these days are DSI [direct spark ignition]. Just curious.
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Old 09-10-2019, 02:49 AM   #7
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I did forget to mention it's in an '89 jayco. It's a suburban 6 gallon dual (electric/propane) and it does have a pilot light not the newer board type.
I have recently replaced the pilot burner and thermocouple. Bought it as a set to replace. Everything worked great last year, no issues at all on the gas side. This year I could not get the pilot light to stay on so my first thought was the thermocouple.
I never tried the electric side of it until the gas didn't work. It was not functioning either so I then also replaced the electric element and the anode rod as well. Still no hot water.
I would like to have both working, just need to figure out what to do next. Possibly gas valve? And I'll be checking the electric side with a bolt meter to see if I have 110v to the switch and try to trace the power.
I have not yet replaced the thermostat piece behind the black cover marked reset.
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Old 09-10-2019, 03:04 AM   #8
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This is the pilot assembly I installed.
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Old 09-10-2019, 03:09 AM   #9
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To make sure I'm checking this correctly in this diagram I would go from the black wire at the switch to the white on the element to check for power correct?
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Old 09-10-2019, 04:55 AM   #10
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Check between the white and black on that drawing. If no voltage, move back to check the black on the t stat, if nothing check at hi limit. Still no power, check fuse or circuit breaker
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Old 09-11-2019, 11:54 AM   #11
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Is it possible you have your water heater valves still on bypass from winterization??
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Old 09-11-2019, 03:00 PM   #12
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Valves are open, made sure tank was full before I tried to fire it up. Did some tinkering today. Had power to the switch, none coming out. Removed the wires from the switch, blades we're corroded. Cleaned a little and reinstalled them. Now I have power all the way through to the element. Water was heating up on electric. Unfortunately so was the switch. It didn't melt but it got warm. I will be replacing the switch soon, hoping to find one comparable that illuminates when turned on.

As far as the propane side of things, still no luck. Pilot light comes on when holding the button down but goes out once I let off the button. I am curious, what is the white thing in between the thermocouple and the gas valve in the pic below?
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Old 09-12-2019, 10:09 AM   #13
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Glad to hear you got the electric side working. Maybe the gas valve is defective since you’ve installed a new thermocouple and burner.
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