Running Coax Cable

brian32 · 05-31-2012, 02:23 PM

we just bought a Whitehawk 28 and there is a coax cable installed in the trailer for the living room tv, however I would like to run a seprate line from the back of the trailer to the front bedroom so wife and I can watch something different then the kids cartoons. Does anyone know of an easy way to the coax cable.

I took the vents off the ceiling and tried to run a fishtap to the front but keep hitting crossbeams. Is there an easy way to run this coax cable. other then surface run.

usmc616 · 05-31-2012, 04:07 PM

Instead of running the coax all the way to the rear of the TT why don't you run it through the outside wall .

Daxton · 05-31-2012, 07:18 PM

I'm in the same boat right now but I'm wanting to run hdmi from where the factory tv is. I already have coax in the room, but the new satellite receivers don't support coax out anymore. I contacted jayco for the wall plans and they sent them to me. Where I want to go is blocked by cross beam supports in the walls. Jayco recommended going through the floor and running the cable either in the enclosed area or along the frame. I've concluded 2 possible methods. To start, I'm going to get an hdmi extender over cat 5. The cable is cheaper and easier to run because of thickness. I'll be running it from the factory tv DVD location through the upper cabinet which connects to the fridge cupboard. I'll run it down between the wall and edge of the cupboard ( within the wall to be hidden) and through the floor of the cupboard under the fridge. Now I can run under the unit to the desired location. I'll either come up under the bed within the storage and mount a hdmi wall play there ( to preserve the factory look) or come up through the floor next to the wall and hide the cable with racetrack wire cover. I already acquired some jayco seam tape to cover the racetrack piece if I want it to blend in even more. When I get around to it, Ill post some pictures.

Hope this helps

brian32 · 05-31-2012, 09:45 PM

That sounds great, I would love to see picture of it. but you gave me some great ideas.
a) call jayco and get the wall plans
b)get some jayco seam tape,cause if I could cover the race track and blend it in then thats a way I might do, I will have to think about that more. Where would I pick up that tape, right from Jayco?

Also to, the cabinet on entertainment unit in the white hawk is so narrow, there really is no place to put the reciever inside the cabinet or on top. So where would a satelitte receiver go?

Daxton · 05-31-2012, 10:07 PM

We have the jay flight g2 29bhs and there is a shelf in the cupboard area designed for components. That's where I have the satellite. The factory DVD/stereo is mounted in the same area.

I grabbed the seam tape at my local dealer. They stock a lot of stuff like that as they use it frequently. I'll picture my work when I do it later in June.

gilldawg79 · 06-04-2012, 08:36 PM

Are you using sat receivers? If so, I think there are ways to use the one cable that's installed. One option for sure is a dual tuner sat receiver. Both companies utilize this technology so I think either way will work with either company. I think if you already have two single tuner receivers it can be done without having to route another cable. Let's hear what you got and I may be able to elaborate.

Daxton · 06-04-2012, 09:24 PM

Mine is a Canadian receiver. We only have hdmi or ryg component connections on the hd receivers now. The older sd receivers had an option for a coax out. Not sure what your dish directv have in the us.

gilldawg79 · 06-04-2012, 09:29 PM

Ok, but I am assuming you want your dish outside and plugged into the trailer input and have a reciever in two locations. Is this correct? That's what you would be running the extra coax for correct? For input to your second receiver from the sat. ?

RoyBraddy · 06-05-2012, 08:37 AM

I had excellent luck using the foam air conditioner ducts running many cables from the front of the trailer to the rear areas. I dropped down all of the air conditioner vents which are usually every 6-feet or so and only fished cabling from one vent to the next one until I got all the way to the end.

It was easy to gain access to the vents from as all the ones I worked with that went from the very end of the trailer to other very end. They in most cases had a ceiling mounted cabinet on both ends. My home entertainment console center is almost in the center of the trailer so most cabling did not have to go very far to get to the other parts of the trailer from there.

The towels and things storage area in the bath room was always my working area to gain access to foam air conditioner ducts in some cases.

I did take good caution when accessing the foam duct and made sure any area that was pentrated the air conditioner foam ducts was sealed good and tight after I ran my cabling thru to close up any possible air leaks. I would use the foam weather seal stuff that came with long plastic release tubes on them and slide them into place and fill the whole area with expanding foam around the new hole I made gaining access.

All worked good for me. I ran RG cables, Video cables, my Inverter extension cords, etc thru these air conditioner foam duct ways in the ceiling..

As usual some areas can not be reached via the ceiling air conditioner ducts and here I would use the WIREMODE products from LOWES running along the outside walls in plain view. They dress up very good and can be re-painted to match the interior decor. This was to get from one cabinet to another cabinet running around the floor. It even amazed Momabear when I finished how thing can be hid from view without too much effort.

Of course probably the best way to get the added cabling around the trailer is to install under the floor but we all know how hard it is to remove the under floor membrane with their 10,000 screws. On one of my trailer installs I did just that but installed some rigid PVC flex conduit and PVC wall boxes along the way where afetr all was buttoned up I had three or four sealed under floor access points where i could pull additional cabling and wiring as needed for future projects. The access points were all inside of floor mounted cabinets and out of sight passage ways. That was a nice install as well but alot of work...

My OFF-ROAD POPUP uses this idea as well and it doesnt have a underfloor membrane to deal with. I did this after snagging some cables pulling the POPUP way back in the woods on the first big OFF-ROAD trip I went on. Now everything cable wise under my POPUP is inside 3/4-inch PVC conduit running from PVC electrical boxes that has the center drilled out for a two-inch hole thru the trailer floor up inside a floor mounted cabinet. All is water tight and bug tight with no hanging wires under the trailer. That turned out to be a nice job as well. Now I can open the pvc junction box sealed lids and fish new cable from Point A to Point B anytime I need to run a new wire and that is usually alot for us old ham radio guys haha...

Being a ham radio guy you know I gots some extra RG cables going from the front of the trailer to the rear areas.

Crewmaniacs · 06-05-2012, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brian32

we just bought a Whitehawk 28 and there is a coax cable installed in the trailer for the living room tv, however I would like to run a seprate line from the back of the trailer to the front bedroom so wife and I can watch something different then the kids cartoons. Does anyone know of an easy way to the coax cable.

I took the vents off the ceiling and tried to run a fishtap to the front but keep hitting crossbeams. Is there an easy way to run this coax cable. other then surface run.

Our 28Whitehawk has a second cable outlet in the bedroom already. If your unit came with the tech package it should already be there. I would think it would have a splitter built into the trailer to watch more than one TV if there is a secondary cable outlet. I can't say for sure if it works as I only have the one TV so far. Hope that helps a little.

stevo75 · 06-05-2012, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daxton

I'm in the same boat right now but I'm wanting to run hdmi from where the factory tv is. I already have coax in the room, but the new satellite receivers don't support coax out anymore. I contacted jayco for the wall plans and they sent them to me. Where I want to go is blocked by cross beam supports in the walls. Jayco recommended going through the floor and running the cable either in the enclosed area or along the frame. I've concluded 2 possible methods. To start, I'm going to get an hdmi extender over cat 5. The cable is cheaper and easier to run because of thickness. I'll be running it from the factory tv DVD location through the upper cabinet which connects to the fridge cupboard. I'll run it down between the wall and edge of the cupboard ( within the wall to be hidden) and through the floor of the cupboard under the fridge. Now I can run under the unit to the desired location. I'll either come up under the bed within the storage and mount a hdmi wall play there ( to preserve the factory look) or come up through the floor next to the wall and hide the cable with racetrack wire cover. I already acquired some jayco seam tape to cover the racetrack piece if I want it to blend in even more. When I get around to it, Ill post some pictures.

Hope this helps

Hello Daxton what extender are you getting? I work in Pro AV and my caution to you is make sure you get an extender/balun of decent quality and decent cable such as Belden, Westpenn or Liberty. Many claim 100 feet which should be plenty long enough but they don't consider possible issues of noise being picked up. Also many extenders for HDMI require two cat5e cables. Good luck.

chubbypuggy · 05-14-2015, 10:52 AM

Hello, I need to replace my outdoor speakers in my jayco whitehawk are the coaxial or component???

wildwillie · 09-14-2015, 04:05 PM

Just tried to use our cable hookup in the bunk house for the first time. Doesn't connect to the satelite as far as we can figure. We are thinking we will have to run a second box?

SirMarty · 09-15-2015, 01:15 PM

I hope I'm not too late for you Daxton. I would test your CAT5 length before running any wiring. HDMI extenders have a length limit depending on cable used. To be safe, I would recommend running CAT6. Reason being is it has better shielding and provides a better signal. I had trouble in my house running a 60ft CAT5e HDMI extender. CAT6 solved it.

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