Running Wires Underneath Jay Flight Baja

BJGoldstein · 03-25-2020, 01:17 PM

Hello,

I have a 2017 Jayco Jay Flight SLX 174BH Baja Edition. I want to permanently install a trickle charger and make it a generally clean and permanent setup. I don't really want to use the 30 amp connection for charging. I simply want to have a battery disconnect and keep it on a maintainer. This is in public storage, hence the permanent, theft proof, clean install.

The underbody of my camper has the insulating panels. Does it seem OK to attach conduit directly to that, maybe with some toggle fasteners? Obviously I would add many of them to make sure it is secure. Or is there another recommend way to make wire runs front to back.

Essentially, I want to have a cleanly installed "outlet" near the rear of my trailer so that I can use a short extension cord to plug in during storage. The trickle charger will be mounted inside my cargo area near the battery or possibly under the bunk where the water pump is located. Either way I need to run a cord front to back.

If all of that is unreasonable, my last resort is to mount it inside the cargo area and install panel type connectors on the cargo door (outside) so I can quickly and easily quick connect to power and the battery while still keeping my trickle charger safe from theft.

Thanks for any input...

Brian

jimp · 03-25-2020, 03:00 PM

I would consider using PVC pipe, it's lightweight and durable, could use the pvc type screw on clips to attach to underside. Could possibly attach the pvc pipe to the gas line, or at least follow how it is attached and runs.

Camper_bob · 03-25-2020, 03:11 PM

I like the PVC idea.

But you could also use flexible wire conduit and attach to the frame using these or something like them:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Lokman-...5170511&sr=8-2

I would refrain from attaching anything directly to the coroplast underbelly; there simply isn't very much support there. IMO it would be difficult to get a clean, long-lasting install going directly into that plastic. Plus you'd have to be REALLY careful you don't punch a hole in something on the other side.

GraftonGuns · 03-25-2020, 03:18 PM

BJ. The "insulating panel" is called Coroplast. I would buy 1/2" or 3/4" PVC conduit from Home depot. Buy the one hole straps to secure it in place. Don't be cheap on the straps as you'll want at least 4 of them in a 10 foot run. On the end put in a weatherproof PVC box with cover. I would start by removing the tek screws holding the Coroplast up. Then fasten the conduit to the frame etc. run your wire probably #12 THHN stranded wire to be safe. Reinstall the Coroplast and Voila, a nice, neat, waterproof, rodent resistant, proud install.

RAurand · 03-25-2020, 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

I like the PVC idea.

But you could also use flexible wire conduit and attach to the frame using these or something like them:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Lokman-...5170511&sr=8-2

I would refrain from attaching anything directly to the coroplast underbelly; there simply isn't very much support there. IMO it would be difficult to get a clean, long-lasting install going directly into that plastic. Plus you'd have to be REALLY careful you don't punch a hole in something on the other side.

I used those and used the screws that hold the chloroplast in place.
I ran 14 gauge wire from my battery thru the Lokman connectors to the back drivers side where the Black/Grey tank drains are so I could plug my macerator pump right in at that point.

jbrnigan · 03-25-2020, 04:02 PM

Not as secure as your planned install.....During winter storage, I put the battery minder charge unit under the propane tank cover, the two wire plug connecter harness, is hardwired to the battery and plugs into the hidden charge unit. I use a zip tie to support the extension cord on the trailer tongue, stretch the extension cord the length of the trailer, over the left side tires (cord is inside the wheel wells on top of the axles), give it a little "pull" to get the extension cord off the ground, then secure it at the rear of the trailer (bumper support) with another zip tie. At the beginning of the season, I clip the zip ties and remove the cord and charger. My extension cord and charger are then available for use on other batteries if necessary.

Whitehat · 03-25-2020, 04:25 PM

As a former tech who ran lots and lots of coax cable, can you simply tuck it above or between the frame rail and the underbelly cover? We used to tuck coax behind the last row of steel or vinyl siding. Quick and easy.

BJGoldstein · 03-25-2020, 06:30 PM

I really appreciate all of your replies. I think I have a good idea what to do from all of this information.

I was generally curious as to what others may have done regarding the coroplast. Attaching to it is obviously not ideal.

I have alot of household / residential electrical experience to help me make this safe. In general I like the ideas of attaching conduit to the frame, most ideally hidden behind the under belly to further protect it.

Thanks again!

JimD · 03-25-2020, 08:02 PM

I recently had to run a new 20 amp circuit to a new water heater I was putting in my Greyhawk. I had to run the wire underneath and looked over all my options. I went with 1/2 inch flexible water tight conduit. Very easy to use!

BJGoldstein · 03-25-2020, 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimD

I recently had to run a new 20 amp circuit to a new water heater I was putting in my Greyhawk. I had to run the wire underneath and looked over all my options. I went with 1/2 inch flexible water tight conduit. Very easy to use!

Did you install it by removing the lining or piggy back onto existing frame mounting, or something?

Any photos? 😊

JimD · 03-25-2020, 08:45 PM

I ended up only having to go about 4 feet. I punched a hole in the floor on each end, shoved the conduit down and back up, and pulled it taught. I didn't end up having to use any hold down clamps due to where it was located. I was going to use some regular conduit clamps I already had but ended up not having to. I also sealed the holes with expanding spray foam like the manufacturer did on their holes.

BJGoldstein · 03-25-2020, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimD

I ended up only having to go about 4 feet. I punched a hole in the floor on each end, shoved the conduit down and back up, and pulled it taught. I didn't end up having to use any hold down clamps due to where it was located. I was going to use some regular conduit clamps I already had but ended up not having to. I also sealed the holes with expanding spray foam like the manufacturer did on their holes.

Gotcha. Sounds like a pretty pleasant job!

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