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Old 04-25-2016, 07:52 AM   #1
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Safety Chain Attachment

My new trailer came with large hooks on the end of the safety chains, to attach to the tow vehicle. These hooks don't fit well in the holes on the receiver; the spring latch is not able to close. I was thinking of using a quick-link or a shackle in the holes, and then attaching the chains to that. But I can't seem to find anything that is strong enough that doesn't cost a fortune and is designed for a crane! I figured I needed around 5000lbs for each, since the trailer max weight is slightly over 9000lbs. Am I overthinking this, or am I correct in that 5000lb working limit? If I'm right, can anyone point me to a place to get what I'm looking for?

Thanks,

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Old 04-25-2016, 08:08 AM   #2
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Portage, WI?

If so there is a Farm & Fleet in Madison, they should have what you need at a reasonable price.
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Old 04-25-2016, 08:10 AM   #3
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I bought a set of new hooks a size up from stock (don't recall exact size at the moment, and our 32 is still in storage) so they would hook onto our factory receiver hitch properly.

Check to see what size hook you currently have and stop by a TSC type store and buy the next size up. Not hard to swap them out at all.
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Old 04-26-2016, 05:07 AM   #4
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I use two quality oversized quick-links on the truck to connect our safety chains. I had to shorten my chains by wiring a couple links together.
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Old 04-26-2016, 07:30 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aizoo Guy View Post
... I figured I needed around 5000lbs for each, since the trailer max weight is slightly over 9000lbs. Am I overthinking this, or am I correct in that 5000lb working limit?
I'm no expert, but I would think your safety chains only need to be just over your tongue weight. It's not like you are lifting your whole trailer off the ground with them like a trophy fish.
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Old 04-26-2016, 08:20 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ninjahbob View Post
I use two quality oversized quick-links on the truck to connect our safety chains. I had to shorten my chains by wiring a couple links together.
Do you cross your chains?

A lot of people are unaware that in most states it is the law. Just coming back from GA, more than half of the TT's, boats, and car trailers did not have the chains crossed, and a few did not have any chains at all.

Don

"Make sure the
hitch has provisions for
the connection of safety
chains, which are required
by most states. When
connected, safety chains
should have some slack to permit sharp turns but
should not drag on the road. In addition, they
should cross under the trailer tongue to help
prevent the tongue from dropping to the road
in the event the trailer separates from the tow
vehicle."
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Old 04-26-2016, 10:53 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Guntr View Post
I'm no expert, but I would think your safety chains only need to be just over your tongue weight. It's not like you are lifting your whole trailer off the ground with them like a trophy fish.
Probably more than the tongue weight, but not the full trailer weight either. Yes, if your TT pops off the hitch it will have to support a load approximately equal to the tongue weight. But if you are moving, it will also have the force required to move the 9,000 lb trailer. It doesn't take nearly 9,000 lb of force to move the trailer however. I would think doubling the tw would probably be sufficient, but I'd have to go back to college physics to be certain.


Oh yeah, and since there are two, each is only carrying half the force.

BTW. I used stainless steel quick links on my chains too after the spring clip on one of my hooks broke.

You could also look at a locking carabiner specifically used by climbers. They have pretty high working loads, and are intended to stop people from plummeting down mountain faces. But the higher working load ones may also be too big for your attachment points.


ETA: these are the 'biners we use for our camp hammock for quick release. http://www.mec.ca/product/5007-000/b...rewgate-biner/
Just checked the specs and they are rates at 25kN force or about 5600 lbs each (or over 10,000 lbs for a pair). C$10 ea (about US$7).
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Old 05-04-2016, 09:24 AM   #8
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I just replaced my TV and need to lengthen my chains. I can't cross chains now. Any suggestions? I have a 24FBS
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Old 05-04-2016, 09:46 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by FashaPa View Post
I just replaced my TV and need to lengthen my chains. I can't cross chains now. Any suggestions? I have a 24FBS
Go to a hardware store and get some heavy duty chain, cut to the length you need, with a clip to attach to the hitch.

I did this just to have a bit of slack too.
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Old 05-04-2016, 09:49 AM   #10
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Easiest solution is to.purchase new safety chain sets from Fleet Farm or Northern Tools. If you only need a few inches a D-ring might work.
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Old 05-04-2016, 10:01 AM   #11
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with the new TV I to needed longer chains, Tractor Supply quick links rated at 3000lb. they can handle the entire weight of my TT, ahhhh the beauty of owning a light weight TT
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Old 05-06-2016, 08:35 PM   #12
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I recognize you don't feel your hooks will fit onto your hitch. However, could it be technique? In other words, on my hitch, I need to hook on the side of the hole, as the hole is not round. What is your tow vehicle, and trailer model?
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Old 05-08-2016, 09:14 PM   #13
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You need to check your local regulations, too,if you are the law-abiding citizen. Some states do not allow links regardless of capacity IN the safety chain OR on the hitch to latch chains to.
As far as crossing chains, I can't say it's the law... On my jayco, the chains are welded at one common point well behind the ball. TheY cannot physically be crossed. Furthermore, the chains could never support my tongue due to length. The tongue would fall to the ground after it ripped the tongue jack foot off.
I think the chains on most of our trailers would break or be ripped free if out of control. The hope is that you can stop fast enough before inertia forces you out of control and the tail wags the dog.
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Old 05-09-2016, 05:58 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Super Eagle View Post
I recognize you don't feel your hooks will fit onto your hitch. However, could it be technique? In other words, on my hitch, I need to hook on the side of the hole, as the hole is not round. What is your tow vehicle, and trailer model?

This. I just noticed the last time a couldn't hook ours up at first either, yet I was doing it all last year no problem ha. Have you tried inserting the hook in a different position?
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Old 05-10-2016, 07:59 AM   #15
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[QUOTE=kampfirekid;406038]
...As far as crossing chains, I can't say it's the law... On my jayco, the chains are welded at one common point well behind the ball. TheY cannot physically be crossed...

x2 on my Starcraft. No way to cross chains.
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Old 05-10-2016, 09:10 AM   #16
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Guys, I've been thinking about this. I would say that if the safety chain hooks won't fit into the factory holes on the hitch receiver, then that receiver may not be designed for the weight/force the trailer will impart. I would caution against creating an adapter to fix the problem, and rather visit your local Jayco service department for input. Engineers size features like holes and hooks for a specific reason, and while there's always margin in any design, I wouldn't use that margin up with a Jerry rig.
Just one engineers opinion....
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Old 05-10-2016, 11:29 AM   #17
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DOT requirement for safety chains:

Safety Chains
Safety chains are a requirement and should be crossed under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Always leave enough slack so you can turn. Never allow the safety chains to drag on the ground and never attach the safety chains to the bumper.

Trailer Classification: Safety Chain Breaking Force-Minimum

Class 1: 2000 lbs (8.9 kN)
Class 2: 3500 lbs (15.6 kN)
Class 3: 5000 lbs (22.2 kN)
Class 4: The strength rating of each length of safety chain or its equivalent and its attachments shall be equal to or exceed in minimum breaking force the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) of the trailer.

Rick
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