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Old 07-15-2012, 11:05 AM   #1
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Sanitizing water system help

We're following the owners manual for our new 22FB and trying to sanitize the fresh water system for the first time here at home. When we connect our home water hose to the city water inlet port on the trailer no water seems to enter the system. At least we can't "hear" any water flowing through the hose.

The manual tells us to turn the water pump ON which we did and we do hear it running. Water DOES come out of the sink faucet. However we noticed that the strainer cup on the side of the water pump is bone dry. I think we're doing something wrong and have probably overlooked something. The manual does indicate that the FW holding tank may be filled by either the gravity feed inlet or city water inlet. What is the correct procedure to cause both the HWH and the FW holding tanks both to fill once water is applied to the city water inlet?
Must be something simple we're overlooking.
Suggestions appreciated.
Thanks.
Ed
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Old 07-15-2012, 12:50 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Steamboat_Willie View Post
We're following the owners manual for our new 22FB and trying to sanitize the fresh water system for the first time here at home. When we connect our home water hose to the city water inlet port on the trailer no water seems to enter the system. At least we can't "hear" any water flowing through the hose.

The manual tells us to turn the water pump ON which we did and we do hear it running. Water DOES come out of the sink faucet. However we noticed that the strainer cup on the side of the water pump is bone dry. I think we're doing something wrong and have probably overlooked something. The manual does indicate that the FW holding tank may be filled by either the gravity feed inlet or city water inlet. What is the correct procedure to cause both the HWH and the FW holding tanks both to fill once water is applied to the city water inlet?
Must be something simple we're overlooking.
Suggestions appreciated.
Thanks.
Ed
If there is a way to fill the FW tank from the city water connection, I'd sure like to know how. My manual says the same thing. If you try the gravity fill, you should be ok.

Grant
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Old 07-15-2012, 01:24 PM   #3
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On page 7-2 in my manual it says "The fresh water tank can be gravity filled or pressure fillled using the fresh water inlet (called city water)." Then that must surely be incorrect.

Also on page 7-4 it says, "Make sure the water heater is filled with water before use; even momentary operation of the water heater without water in it may result in damage to the tank and/or controls. So as there is no HWH level indicator anywhere and it's not fillable via the city water inlet how DO you fill it? (the owner's manual is NOT an easy-read)
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Old 07-15-2012, 03:47 PM   #4
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The manual is wrong. I went through the same thing. The FW tank can only be filled through the gravity fill.
The HW heater can be filled via city inlet, just open the valves to it (close the bypass) and run the hot water tap until all the air is out of the line.
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Old 07-15-2012, 04:26 PM   #5
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We drain the water system completely and then pour in a couple cups of bleach. Fill the water tank and then fill the hot water system and run the faucets until we smell bleach. Then we run the cold water at each faucet until we smell bleach. Let it sit overnight and drain and flush several times the next day.
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Old 07-15-2012, 06:07 PM   #6
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On page 7-2 in my manual it says "The fresh water tank can be gravity filled or pressure fillled using the fresh water inlet (called city water)."......snip
I believe that on some model Jayco's this can be done....., sounds like Jayco carried over a statement from another model's manual.

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Also on page 7-4 it says, "Make sure the water heater is filled with water before use; even momentary operation of the water heater without water in it may result in damage to the tank and/or controls. So as there is no HWH level indicator anywhere and it's not fillable via the city water inlet how DO you fill it? (the owner's manual is NOT an easy-read)
The HWH can be filled from either the gravity filled fresh water tank by turning the pump on, or via the city water pressure inlet. In both cases check to make sure that the HWH isn't in by-pass mode......., there will be a couple of valves near the HWH for this purpose.

Bob
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Old 07-16-2012, 05:42 PM   #7
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The question was: What is the correct procedure to cause both the HWH and the FW holding tanks both to fill once water is applied to the city water inlet?

The Rustic Eagle answered your question, but I'll elaborate a bit and provide some sterilization info/steps. (I, too, think the manual is incorrect unless Jayco is employing some new gizmos to the water lines).

Inside your TT, the water can originate from two (2) sources -- the city water inlet or the FW holding tank.

The city water inlet. Generally (at least all TTs that I know of), when you hook-up to the city water inlet, the water does NOT go to the FW holding tank. The city water inlet allows water to fill and pressurize your hot and cold water plumbing, and as such, you DO NOT run the water pump (the water pump is used in conjunction with the FW holding tank). When the water enters your TT, it is directed down two paths -- one for cold water and one for hot water. In the case of the cold water, the water simply fills the cold water plumbing (open a cold water faucet briefly to allow any air in the plumbing to escape). In the case of the hot water path, the water is directed to the HWH. Just before the HWH are several bypass valves, which allows you to decide whether water should enter the HWH. When would you want to bypass the HWH? If you winterize your TT with antifreeze, you’ll want to bypass the HWH. If you have a problem with the HWH drain plug (e.g., you lost it or it broke, etc.), you’ll want to bypass the HWH. On the other hand, to fill the HWH, you’ll want to ensure that the HWH drain plug is securely attached and the bypass valves are turned to allow water to enter the HWH. When filling the HWH, you need to open the hot water faucets (or the HWH pressure valve) so that the air inside the HWH can escape; otherwise, the increased pressure in the hot water line could burst the plumbing/tubing connections. When water is steadily flowing out of the hot water faucets, turn off. You now know that your HWH is “full” and ready to be heated either by LP or electric (and no need to monitor the level of water in the HWH; it will remain “full”).

Notice, however, that you can’t sterilize the water system via the city water inlet. This leads us to the FW holding tank.

FW holding tank. You fill the FW holding tank through the fill-cap via gravity (not via the city water inlet connection). The water pump is used to pump the water from the FW tank to the cold and water plumbing/tubing. Although the water source is different, same story as above regarding the cold and hot water plumbing. For the avoidance of doubt, after filling the FW tank, open the cold and hot water faucets before turning on the water pump; once water is steadily flowing, close (this allows any air in the plumbing to escape).

To Sterilize your water system. Let’s assume your FW tank is empty. After filling your FW tank about 1/4 to 1/2 full, you need to add bleach to the FW tank. You don’t add the bleach directly to the FW tank; instead, you dilute the bleach by adding to a gallon container and then pouring the mixture into the FW tank. Generally, you want about 1/4 to 1/2 cup of bleach for every 15 gal of water. If you have a 40 gal FW tank and a 6 gal HWH, that’s about 45 gal, so you’ll need between 3/4 and 1-1/2 cups of bleach (I use 1 cup). Add this amount of bleach to your gallon container that contains water; top-off to about one gallon. Add to the FW tank. Fill the FW tank with water. Open the water faucets; turn on water pump; keep open until all hot and cold faucets have a faint smell of bleach; then turn off the water pump. Now let the TT sit for 6-8hrs. Drain the FW tank and refill and drain twice. Remove the drain plug from the HWH to drain; reinstall the drain plug. During the FW tank draining process, hook-up your city water inlet hose and turn on all the faucets. Let the water run through the faucets until no smell of bleach. Water system will be sterilized.

Final comments: Always use a water pressure regulator when using the city water inlet. Be careful when un/installing the drain plug for the HWH; it’s plastic and has a hollow center. If tightened too much, the drain plug could break.
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Old 07-16-2012, 06:24 PM   #8
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When filling the HWH, you need to open the hot water faucets (or the HWH pressure valve) so that the air inside the HWH can escape; otherwise, the increased pressure in the hot water line could burst the plumbing/tubing connections.

Remove the drain plug from the HWH to drain; reinstall the drain plug.
I have never heard of the water lines/tubing/connections breaking from air pressure that is caused by regulated water entering the system. The pressure in the lines would be the same air or water. The water coming into the system will compress the air in the system until the two have equal pressure. At that point the water stops entering the system. It the air pressure was higher than the water pressure, the water would not be able to enter the system.

Many trailers have water heater or low point drains that will drain the water heater, so you don't have to keep removing the anode rod or the drain plug. The plug is easy to cross thread, so if you have low point drains I recommend using them.
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Old 07-16-2012, 08:39 PM   #9
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snip.......The city water inlet. Generally (at least all TTs that I know of), when you hook-up to the city water inlet, the water does NOT go to the FW holding tank......snip
Your correct that generally they don't......., but a number of RV manufactures have 5th wheels (don't know about TT's) with a 4 position selector valve near the city inlet connection: Tank fill, Run off tank, Run off city supply, and Winterize. To make matters more confusing, on "some" models they still have the gravity fresh water tank fill. This type of system has been around for years in the MH community.

If I'm not mistaken, I believe my brother in-law's new Eagle 5th wheel has some type of selector valve system at his city connection.

Bob
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Old 07-17-2012, 03:40 AM   #10
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You have to gravity fill the FW tank in my TT. I would think the process of sanitizing would be fill the FW tank via gravity feed adding the proper ratio of bleach to water, run the water pump, open all of the hot water faucets until you get water (don't need to run the heater since you're not looking for hot water) until you purge all the air and get just water. Do the same for all of the cold water faucets. You can cycle the toilet a couple of times to be thorough. Once you are satisfied all the lines are filled with water let the solution dwell in the lines for a few hours.

Purge the solution by running water from both hot and cold faucets, refilling the fresh water tank and empty it again running water through the system and if you're still smelling bleach do it again.

Let me know if I'm missing something.
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Old 07-18-2012, 02:15 PM   #11
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I had the opportunity to speak with a technical support representative at the Jayco factory today.

1. IF your model trailer DOES have a gravity fill inlet port then the FW tank can ONLY be filled via the gravity fill inlet and may NOT be filled via the city water inlet source even though the manual does say gravity OR city-water.

2. IF the trailer does NOT come fitted with a gravity fill inlet then the FW tank may ONLY be filled via the city water inlet. (obviously)

So it's one or the other (depending) but not both.

The owners manual could be clarified to avoid any confusion for the new owner.
Ed
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Old 07-18-2012, 09:31 PM   #12
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snip......So it's one or the other (depending) but not both.....snip
At least Jayco makes a clear distinction between the two fill systems........, now a Montana fifth wheel that's a different story

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fu...5.cfm#25920325

Bob
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