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Old 07-18-2013, 02:40 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Forgvn77 View Post
I can see the benefits of reducing sound by running one or the other depending whether or not you're in the bedroom, but we have a 32TSBH with a thermal package and 15k a/c and it gets and stays plenty cool during our hot Iowa summers. I have no reservations other than I seriously question the logic of putting a second a/c in the front bedroom instead of the back bunk area.

John
Yep, I'd ad mine to the bunkhouse. The front bedroom stays plenty cool!
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Old 07-18-2013, 06:33 AM   #22
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My wife said the same thing about us adding a second air conditioner - she wanted it in the bunkhouse instead of the front bedroom. I haven't done it yet, but I'm still pushing for the front bedroom mainly because it would be easier to wire and set up because of the cabinets in the front bedroom. Putting a second A/C in the trailer will help cool the whole trailer anyway (as opposed to just the room you put it in). I plan on tying my second unit into the ducting (just like it's done from the factory). If I really wanted to, I could shut the front ducts off from the main unit and essentially force all of the air from the main unit to the rear of the trailer, and let the front unit cool the front half. Either that, or just let the two blend like a standard trailer and let the air force itself one way or the other.

In any event, I'd definitely go with a second A/C.
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Old 07-19-2013, 04:49 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Forgvn77 View Post
I can see the benefits of reducing sound by running one or the other depending whether or not you're in the bedroom, but we have a 32TSBH with a thermal package and 15k a/c and it gets and stays plenty cool during our hot Iowa summers. I have no reservations other than I seriously question the logic of putting a second a/c in the front bedroom instead of the back bunk area.

John
I'm the original poster on this. The bunkhouse in this model is not a separate room. The bunks are in the back section of the TT, but with curtain dividers only. The front master is completely closed off with walls and a hard pocket door. So, it makes sense that the front would need the extra air option.
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Old 07-19-2013, 04:52 PM   #24
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We have a 2013 28BHBE with the thermal pkg , we have the 15K AC option, but not dual AC. I would have to say no to the second unit, unless you have money to burn.

Ours stays plenty cool with the fan set to low or high. There is an AC outlet in the ceiling over the master bed, and it blows hard, right on you. There is another right by the bunks, that I aimed towards the bunks, and the kids were cold and made me point it away. There is another in the bathroom, so it's plenty cool.

The only advantage I see is perhaps if one fails, you have a backup. Or if you camp where it gets really hot.
Thanks for this input! You have the exact TT that we are looking to order. Glad to hear that there is an a/c vent above the master bed. Thank you!
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Old 07-19-2013, 07:58 PM   #25
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Thanks for this input! You have the exact TT that we are looking to order. Glad to hear that there is an a/c vent above the master bed. Thank you!

Sure thing! In all, ours has-

- One vent over master bed, slightly off center which doesn't matter since you can aim it
- One vent in the bathroom just inside the door
- Two vents in the main cabin (one near TV/couch and one in front of bathroom door, which we point towards the bunks)

and of course you have the quick-cool vents on the A/C itself. The heat vents are, of course, in the floor. We've only used the heat once, and it warmed up pretty quickly.

The only thing we would like differently on this unit is, it is a bit tight getting around the foot of the bed, between the wall/door and the bed. A few more inches here would be helpful.

You'll love the full-size shower, I always hated the tiny RV bathtubs, this makes a huge difference. If you have any other questions about this unit, post back and I'll answer what I can....
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Old 07-21-2013, 12:34 PM   #26
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Sure thing! In all, ours has-

- One vent over master bed, slightly off center which doesn't matter since you can aim it
- One vent in the bathroom just inside the door
- Two vents in the main cabin (one near TV/couch and one in front of bathroom door, which we point towards the bunks)

and of course you have the quick-cool vents on the A/C itself. The heat vents are, of course, in the floor. We've only used the heat once, and it warmed up pretty quickly.

The only thing we would like differently on this unit is, it is a bit tight getting around the foot of the bed, between the wall/door and the bed. A few more inches here would be helpful.

You'll love the full-size shower, I always hated the tiny RV bathtubs, this makes a huge difference. If you have any other questions about this unit, post back and I'll answer what I can....
Wallacemf, Thanks so much! We went to a different dealership and made a deal yesterday on the Jay Flight 28 BHBE!! We take delivery in one week. The one on the lot had the 15k a/c with the thermal package so we opted not to get the 2nd a/c. We saw the vents in all the locations you mentioned. I love that there's a vent inside the bathroom. And I could see how you could aim the one vent toward the bunks. We have the technology pkg, bike rack/cargo tray, and roof ladder also. It does not have the power pkg so no power awning. I was concerned about that but my husband and the salesman seemed to think the power awning was not important. What are your thoughts on that?
Thx!
Adina
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Old 07-21-2013, 05:33 PM   #27
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We love the ease of our power awning but notice it needs to be rolled up in any wind more than a breeze as it flops around quite easily..
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Old 07-22-2013, 09:38 AM   #28
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Get the second AC, July 4th was so HOT and the AC just could NOT keep up! 1k is a cheap add on for the comfort it will provide!!
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Old 07-22-2013, 05:37 PM   #29
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Wallacemf, Thanks so much! We went to a different dealership and made a deal yesterday on the Jay Flight 28 BHBE!! We take delivery in one week. The one on the lot had the 15k a/c with the thermal package so we opted not to get the 2nd a/c. We saw the vents in all the locations you mentioned. I love that there's a vent inside the bathroom. And I could see how you could aim the one vent toward the bunks. We have the technology pkg, bike rack/cargo tray, and roof ladder also. It does not have the power pkg so no power awning. I was concerned about that but my husband and the salesman seemed to think the power awning was not important. What are your thoughts on that?
Thx!
Adina
Congratulations! We bought ours off the lot, not ordered. It has the hide-a-bed, technology pkg, thermal pkg, elite package, roof ladder, and the power tongue jack. We have the power awning as a stand-alone option, we don't have the power pkg either. The elite package is nice because it has a bigger refrigerator, 8 cubic foot instead of 6 cubic foot.

As someone mentioned, the power awning is a compromise. It is convenient, and it does have adjustable pitch as well, so you can change the pitch to allow rainwater to run off. However, it does not seem as sturdy in the wind as a manual awning does. Frankly, you are probably better off with a manual awning, until they find a way to make the power awnings as sturdy as the manual ones.

Check to make sure that you are getting a spare tire, it is listed as an option on the "sticker" for mine. It is mounted under the unit, with a winch similar to a pickup truck spare. Ours came with the spare tire "option".
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Old 09-28-2013, 02:58 PM   #30
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I would get the 2nd AC. You can use a 20 amp - 30 amp y cord to get 50 amp service. Most parks that have 30 amp service also have 20 amp service at the same pedestal. This allows you to get 50 amp service. The other benefit is you are less likely to have power problems in your coach if you are using 120v appliances.
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Old 09-28-2013, 03:43 PM   #31
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Should we get the 2nd air conditioner in bedroom?

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I would get the 2nd AC. You can use a 20 amp - 30 amp y cord to get 50 amp service. Most parks that have 30 amp service also have 20 amp service at the same pedestal. This allows you to get 50 amp service. The other benefit is you are less likely to have power problems in your coach if you are using 120v appliances.
Not entirely accurate. If the OP has a TT... he won't get 50a past the 30a breaker on the main panel.

With a TT the best option would be to wire up the 2nd AC so that it could be operated off of its own 20a service. That way you can keep the 30a to the TT... and 20a to the 2nd AC.
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Old 09-28-2013, 04:14 PM   #32
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I meant that if he gets the one with 2 ac units that comes from the factory with 50 amp service. You can use the y cord to get 50 amps from a 30 amp plug plus a 20 amp plug. If the unit comes from the factory with only 30 amp service you either need to change the panel or wire another cord because you can't run two ac units off of 30 amps.
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Old 10-01-2013, 06:13 AM   #33
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Our friends who we camp with have a 26RLS and we camp in AZ. The one AC unit will not cool off the bedroom. They supplement with fans.
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Old 10-01-2013, 06:28 AM   #34
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Not entirely accurate. If the OP has a TT... he won't get 50a past the 30a breaker on the main panel.

With a TT the best option would be to wire up the 2nd AC so that it could be operated off of its own 20a service. That way you can keep the 30a to the TT... and 20a to the 2nd AC.
New TTs that have a second A/C are also offered with 50 amp service. I wish this had been an option when I ordered mine because I would have definitely checked that box! As it is, I'm looking to add a second ducted unit, but wire it separately to bypass the trailer wiring and go directly to the pedestal. The unit I'm looking at draws 14 amps, so it could be plugged into a standard plug on the pedestal.
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Old 10-01-2013, 09:05 AM   #35
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New TTs that have a second A/C are also offered with 50 amp service. I wish this had been an option when I ordered mine because I would have definitely checked that box! As it is, I'm looking to add a second ducted unit, but wire it separately to bypass the trailer wiring and go directly to the pedestal. The unit I'm looking at draws 14 amps, so it could be plugged into a standard plug on the pedestal.
Exactly what I was saying before! I was trying to make the point that having 50 AMP service is better than 30 AMP service and you still can get 50 AMP service even if the pedestal only has a 30 AMP plug because you can use a 30 AMP + 20 AMP Y cord to 50 AMP female adapter cord which will allow you to get the needed 50 AMPs to run both AC units. Here is an example: http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...art-leds/71205
Other posters commented that it can be hard to find 50 AMP service in some locations. The above adapter allows a solution for most parks. Having 50 AMP service gives you maximum flexibility. I really wished I had it for my TT and now for my MH.
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Old 10-01-2013, 09:25 AM   #36
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Exactly what I was saying before! I was trying to make the point that having 50 AMP service is better than 30 AMP service and you still can get 50 AMP service even if the pedestal only has a 30 AMP plug because you can use a 30 AMP + 20 AMP Y cord to 50 AMP female adapter cord which will allow you to get the needed 50 AMPs to run both AC units. Here is an example: http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...art-leds/71205
Other posters commented that it can be hard to find 50 AMP service in some locations. The above adapter allows a solution for most parks. Having 50 AMP service gives you maximum flexibility. I really wished I had it for my TT and now for my MH.
Unless the 20 amp is a ground fault receptacle, it will trip the ground fault.
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Old 10-01-2013, 09:49 AM   #37
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Unless the 20 amp is a ground fault receptacle, it will trip the ground fault.
I could be wrong but I don't think it will trip the GFI outlet. GFI outlets work by detecting current draw that does not return through the neutral line (E.G. if someone is grounded and touches the hot line). In the case of the Y cords the neutral lines are usually connected together as are the ground lines. The two hot lines are kept separate in the wiring and in the panel inside the coach. In theory, if the Y cord had only one neutral line connected - say from the 30 AMP side and left the 20 AMP neutral open with no connection then you could (most likely would) trip the GFI outlet on the 20 AMP side however there would be a larger problem with such an arrangement that is current draw. In such an arrangement you potentially could exceed the current draw on the neutral side because you should not be attempting to pull 50 AMPs from 30 AMP rated wiring. It isn't just the hot line that needs to be correctly sized it is also the neutral or return line. Anyway, having 50 AMPs in the coach providing the ability to run the coach on any of the following combinations would be very nice:
Two 20 AMP circuits
Two 15 AMP circuits
One 15 AMP circuit and one 30 AMP circuit
One 20 amp circuit and one 30 AMP circuit
One 50 AMP 240V circuit

The above combinations give the OP maximum flexibility over the standard 30 AMP single phase setup in most RVs. Obviously, even with the two legs available if it does not add up to the full 50 AMP needed then you can't use everything in the coach however you can still use more than you could if you only had a single phase 30 AMP setup.
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Old 10-01-2013, 12:25 PM   #38
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I could be wrong but I don't think it will trip the GFI outlet. GFI outlets work by detecting current draw that does not return through the neutral line (E.G. if someone is grounded and touches the hot line). In the case of the Y cords the neutral lines are usually connected together as are the ground lines. The two hot lines are kept separate in the wiring and in the panel inside the coach. In theory, if the Y cord had only one neutral line connected - say from the 30 AMP side and left the 20 AMP neutral open with no connection then you could (most likely would) trip the GFI outlet on the 20 AMP side however there would be a larger problem with such an arrangement that is current draw. In such an arrangement you potentially could exceed the current draw on the neutral side because you should not be attempting to pull 50 AMPs from 30 AMP rated wiring. It isn't just the hot line that needs to be correctly sized it is also the neutral or return line. Anyway, having 50 AMPs in the coach providing the ability to run the coach on any of the following combinations would be very nice:
Two 20 AMP circuits
Two 15 AMP circuits
One 15 AMP circuit and one 30 AMP circuit
One 20 amp circuit and one 30 AMP circuit
One 50 AMP 240V circuit

The above combinations give the OP maximum flexibility over the standard 30 AMP single phase setup in most RVs. Obviously, even with the two legs available if it does not add up to the full 50 AMP needed then you can't use everything in the coach however you can still use more than you could if you only had a single phase 30 AMP setup.
Every one I've tried has tripped the ground fault.
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Old 10-01-2013, 01:37 PM   #39
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Every one I've tried has tripped the ground fault.
Hmm... it must be due to how the Y cable wiring works. It would be interesting to try with an autoformer would help (http://autoformersdirect.com/catalog...products_id=28). The autoformer isolates the hot lines from the input side as well as automatically regulating the voltage. I'm curious if the GFI outlets trip when the Y cord is first plugged in or when you try to use something in the coach? What experience have you had? It would be an interesting exercise to build something that would prevent the GFI from tripping. I have seen this company that builds a fairly complicated device that is a series of transfer switches that deliver 50 AMP power to the coach but allow the correct combination of different circuits to provide that power.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...solution/57161 ($799 on sale is a bit steep!)
If I wanted to be really creative guess we could take the input power from the 20 A circuit and the 30 A circuit and rectify them separately to DC then buss them together and then run it through a RMS sine wave inverter to regenerate the 240 V phase to phase 120 V phase to phase 50 Amp service for the coach. That would eliminate the GFI tripping problem and provide clean stable power for the RV. That said it could be a bit of overkill...

Got to love these discussions on JOF!
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Old 10-01-2013, 02:26 PM   #40
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Just found this add:

Use your 50-amp power cord in parks without 50-amp service to operate lights and appliances.

Two 30-amp plugs on heavy-duty 17"L UL approved cords supply power to a 50-amp receptacle from any combination of two 30-, 20- or 15-amp power receptacles. One 30-amp connection and one 20-15-amp connection (with included adapter) on separate circuits is the ideal situation for running both air conditioners. For providing 20-15 amps on each leg an additional #24493 30-to-15-amp adapter (sold separately) is required. Receptacle is housed in a weather-proof box with flip cover and works best if outlets are on separate circuits. Polarity check of each park receptacle is recommended before use-see #16036 Good Governor (sold separately). Not for use with GFI receptacles.
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