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Old 09-07-2015, 07:41 PM   #11
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BigJohnD: you are definitely not alone on this one. I've witnessed the same on my jayflight this weekend. The trim piece clearly has a different coefficient of thermal expansion than its neighboring materials. And the silicon (?) adhesive material holding it on absolutely ruptures leaving small gaps where water could penetrate.

There is probably not a drip edge for the exterior wall (because it's designed to be hidden by this roll pan drip panel)

I'm thinking screws would be just 40 more possible water penetrations. My thoughts are thinking about a dicor like material that cures, and run a bead over the trim piece while buckled. So when it cools the bead is pressed.
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Old 09-07-2015, 07:51 PM   #12
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I've actually done what you mentioned with the geocel since it expands and contracts very well, plus it sticks to everything. I applied it when it was bowed out. Over time though, it eventually started separating again, just not quite as bad. I'm confident with my screw method, at least the way I do it. No different than some of our previous rigs, except the screws went through a better moulding on them. Not saying my way is the best way, but I've resealed this thing several times, even stripping the original stuff off. My only other option is to go over the original moulding with an aluminum cap moulding like some of our older rigs had. It's still a screw in method though. I think we had spoke a while back on some thread about removing screws, sealing and reinstalling. I quit counting, but almost every screw on this rig has been removed, sealed and reinstalled. If the hole is filled, the screw is coated, and the head is sealed, it's pretty much good to go and rids of the wicking issue.
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Old 09-07-2015, 07:57 PM   #13
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What screw types you thinking about? SSFlanged Roberts drive? Flanged... The ones that appear to have a cut washer molded into the head.

Do you think there's a rim board around the floor that these will seat into? My old forest river unit had aluminum square stock frame, with a perimeter around the floor. I don't know yet what this jayflight has at the wall/floor intersection.
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Old 09-07-2015, 08:05 PM   #14
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1" pan head SS w/roberts drive, and paint the heads to match if I can't find painted ones. Wouldn't torque them down hard due to the way the molding is (Like a upside down J). Torqueing too much would just dent the molding in pretty bad. Snug would do. I'm pretty sure there is a rim board (wood). Pretty easy to see once the fender skirt was off a while back. Those crown staples are into it real good.
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Old 09-07-2015, 08:07 PM   #15
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I said "see" the rim board. You can't see it, but you can look up under the camper, feel on the darco where the perimeter rim board is. The molding is secured into that.
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Old 09-07-2015, 08:09 PM   #16
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Gotcha, I hear ya loud and clear. I'm liking the solution you present... With the sealed screws. Although that must slow ya down a bit to manually seal each one as it goes in.
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Old 09-07-2015, 08:14 PM   #17
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Very slow. Good rainy day project. I think I mentioned in an earlier post, but I'll be happy to be the test dummy since I can't come up with anything else yet. Worst case, later on, if it becomes an issue, I'll just rip the skirt and molding off and use a different type of molding. I still like the aluminum cap molding idea better, but I can't find it in pieces longer than 8'. I prefer the longer 16' pieces. Plus, with that molding, I'll have to notch it out around 2 of my hatches since the bottom of the hatches is right at the top of the molding, and notch my fender skirts where they fit better. I'm still open to any opinions or ideas. This is just all I have for now. Might stop by a few dealers on the way home from work, since some of them stock stuff like this. If I can find a piece, I'll get it just to brainstorm.
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Old 09-07-2015, 09:13 PM   #18
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ctbaily, take a look at these 2 links if you get time. These are a few of the types of molding I was looking at for going over the existing molding. The first one (white) looks the most simple, and I could paint it black, depending on how it looks. Second one requires the insert, which isn't a big deal.
96" White Aluminum Non Insert Side Trim Molding 1 440" x 360" RV Trialer | eBay
105" Pcs Aluminum Vinyl Insert Type Black Flat Trim RV Trailer Boat Motorhome | eBay
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Old 09-26-2015, 08:47 PM   #19
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So here's my new molding that will be installed over the existing "warping" molding. Will be putting a layer of 1-5/8" butyl over the existing molding, installing new molding over that, filling each screw hole and seat area with geocel, then running a bead of geocel where the new molding and sidewall meet. Will probably be next week when I complete, but will post pictures when it's done. It will look better than original.
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Old 09-27-2015, 07:54 PM   #20
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Cool. Pilot holes or self tapping? The butyl tape self stick?
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