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Old 09-27-2015, 08:12 PM   #21
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Pilot holes. Butyl is self sticking. The 2 black pieces are for the front and rear. Really didn't need them but wanted to maintain the look all the way around.
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Old 09-28-2015, 08:10 PM   #22
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My '14 did that after one year and my '16 looks like it will not be far behind, same design.
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Old 09-29-2015, 08:29 AM   #23
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I'll post detailed pictures when complete for anybody interested in this particular fix.
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Old 09-29-2015, 08:56 AM   #24
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I'll post detailed pictures when complete for anybody interested in this particular fix.

Thanks very much. I'm interested to know what a dealer warranty repair would entail? Again thanks John
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Old 09-29-2015, 09:10 AM   #25
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Our 2 month old White Hawk is doing the same thing. Only one side.

We'll let the dealer deal with it. That's what the warranty is for.
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Old 09-29-2015, 11:20 AM   #26
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I think you will see a lot of this with the dark colored metals and vinyl they are using now a days. They expand and contract much more than the white materials used to.
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Old 09-29-2015, 12:07 PM   #27
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Our new Jayflight is going to the dealer in October for this issue (and a few others). Somehow I doubt that their fix will be as good as the ones suggested in this thread. I will report back on what they do. I am also thinking that I will take photos of it when it is hot in case it is cool on the day it goes to the dealer.
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Old 09-29-2015, 07:39 PM   #28
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P25ct, this is not a dealer fix. The biggest reason I'm coming up with my own fix, as the dealer will just go back with the same thing,'and I don't care for that. Like with most fixes, I had just assume do it myself, my way where I know what I have. If my fix doesn't work I'll be first to admit, but over all the years of our fixing in our own shop, we have zero failures.
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Old 09-30-2015, 01:25 AM   #29
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P25ct, this is not a dealer fix. The biggest reason I'm coming up with my own fix, as the dealer will just go back with the same thing,'and I don't care for that. Like with most fixes, I had just assume do it myself, my way where I know what I have. If my fix doesn't work I'll be first to admit, but over all the years of our fixing in our own shop, we have zero failures.

Agreed. Very interested to see how you make out. It's a solid design, and should work/look great. Thanks for sharing the info with us!
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Old 10-05-2015, 08:33 PM   #30
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Update

So here's an update for those who were following this thread. I made some progress today. Pretty much 95% complete. I took just enough pictures to give you the idea of what I did.

* Laid the trim on the side, marked and cut to fit.
* Taped trim on side and marked holes.
* Removed and drilled pilot holes.
* Cleaned with mineral spirits.
* Put 1-5/8" butyl tape over existing molding ensuring all of it was covered.
* Installed new aluminum molding using stainless #8 screws, 1-1/4" long, oval head with the Robertson drive.
* Once all molding was completed, came back and removed each screw, filled hole and countersunk seat area of molding with geocel sealant and reinstalled screws a little more snug than the first time.

I'm pretty much done for this time off. When I get back from work in 3 weeks, I'll retrim the excess butyl and do a perimeter seal and reinstall the fender skirts. The skirts will be moved up about 1/2". I have test fitted them and they will work well.

No doubt, it is water tight. To confirm if anybody is curious, if water gets behind the stock molding, you do run the risk of it wicking into the wood backing on the filon siding. If you pull the fender skirts and look behind the existing molding (like you're looking up under the wheel well), you can see the wood. I sealed all of this area up as well since it runs the risk of getting wet from wheel wash.
Attached Thumbnails
Holes Drilled 2.jpg   Butyl Tape.jpg   Molding Installed 1.jpg   Molding Installed 2.jpg  
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