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Old 09-03-2015, 07:00 PM   #1
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Side Molding Warping in Heat

Ok, I've never had this happen before on any RV. Since new, when we've been in pretty hot weather, the molding at the base where the skirt starts warps pretty good when the sun hits it. Hopefully you can see this in the picture. This has pulled what sealer was there on top of it apart. I cleaned all of that off, redid it with Geocel, and of course, it just keeps on doing it.

Just short of ripping everything apart and doing it my way, I've got 2 options, unless somebody can give me a few ideas.

#1 - the easy way. Drill holes every 4-6" down the molding, seal and install stainless screws. Guess it would look like an Open Range then huh? I know how to make it leak proof. Maybe not the most appealing visually, but seems like that would hold it all together.
#2 - Purchase new non-insert molding, or just a cap molding (also screwed on, and install this over the existing molding. The thing with the cap molding is it's a more ridgid aluminum and won't warp under heat like the thin crap on there.

Either way involves screws, but gotta do something. I'm pretty sure when water gets behind the molding, it will eventually affect something. The existing molding is just stapled on and then the skirt fits up under it in the track and is somewhat heald in place with sealer and metal strapping, I've seen that, but I really prefer NOT to remove anything that is there.

Any ideas?
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Warped Molding.JPG  
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Old 09-03-2015, 07:19 PM   #2
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How old is your trailer? mine is doing the same thing on the drivers side on 6 month old trailer. If less then 2 years would warrantee cover it?
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Old 09-03-2015, 07:27 PM   #3
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Mine will be a year in November. It was cold when we bought it, and didn't start until it got hot again. I know it's under warranty, but I never go that route unless it's a last resort. Usually, between other forum members and batting around ideas in my own head, there's a better fix than any dealer would do. They'll just replace it, or say there is nothing they can do, and I'll be right back in the same spot. So, as usual, shooting for a fix that's better than what they'd do. I'm definitely not scared to tear into one since I've been there before. Just looking for input on the 2 suggestions I had, or maybe somebody has a different idea.
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Old 09-03-2015, 07:32 PM   #4
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That's true... screws might be the way to go then. maybe drill and countersink stainless screws.
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Old 09-03-2015, 07:37 PM   #5
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Kind of what I'm thinking. Don't think I'd be able to countersink though. That molding is kind of like a J-Molding per say. Real thin too. But, I could still make a pan head look ok, especially if I painted them all gray or something to match. Or, just use painted screws like everything else on the thing. I'm not worried about changing things up from stock. Stock went away the first week we had it. It's been modded up inside and out. I just want the molding flat again, and that seam to stay sealed.
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Old 09-03-2015, 08:33 PM   #6
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the j moulding you have shown if it is like the one on my 2015 is stapled on into the fiberglass sides and then the bottom skirt is slid up into it and fastened in just a few places with screws. If you look you can find all the screw points. when I was at the factory I really didn't like the way they were fastening them and a couple of ours are really crooked but I don't know what a real good fix would be
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Old 09-03-2015, 09:00 PM   #7
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You are exactly correct Paintinfool3. I tried to describe that but you did a pretty good job. I had the fender skirts off a while back and it was obvious how it all went together. Besides adding screws, which really wouldn't look that bad, I'm at a loss. My concern is water getting behind the j molding. Maybe it won't hurt anything, but since I haven't seen this specific unit built, I can't say it won't affect something. If water gets behind it, will it come in contact with the bottom edge of the luan / fiberglass wall? The bottom of the wall has to be somewhere. On our last fifth wheel, water did get behind a moulding, and did wick up into the wall / luan backing. This is why I'm a shade concerned with that seal being broken from the warping.
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Old 09-03-2015, 09:32 PM   #8
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Side moulding warping in heat

We have the same issue on a year old Whitehawk 27 DSRL. So far only noticed it happening when in direct sunlite and only on the slideout. Appears that it is only secured with screws on each panel end. Once every thing cools down I can't find the spot that has the problem so it would be hard to show the dealer. Very interested in what others come up with to correct this.
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Old 09-03-2015, 09:48 PM   #9
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Kind of our scenario with the sun. It's only real bad when the sun is directly on it. There are a few screws, but if you slide the skirt out of the channel, you'll see the crown staples here and there. Not the best of installation. Guess I may be the test dummy to drill some holes here soon. Just glad to see I'm not the only one that's seen this. The more I think, the more I'm thinking I'll get some #8 x 1" stainless pan head screws, paint the heads if I can't find painted ones in stock, predrill holes every 4", fill hole and dab with geocel and install the screws. What could possibly go wrong. I've done almost every existing screw on the camper like this when it was new (remove, seal, reinstall), which was pretty time consuming.
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Old 09-04-2015, 08:42 PM   #10
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Looks like I may be the lone ranger on this one. It'll be a couple of weeks before I can tackle this since I'm offshore now, but will report back when it's done. In the mean time, I'm open to any other comments or suggestions to help with the brain storming.
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