Side Molding Warping in Heat

[BigJohnD]

Ok, I've never had this happen before on any RV. Since new, when we've been in pretty hot weather, the molding at the base where the skirt starts warps pretty good when the sun hits it. Hopefully you can see this in the picture. This has pulled what sealer was there on top of it apart. I cleaned all of that off, redid it with Geocel, and of course, it just keeps on doing it.

Just short of ripping everything apart and doing it my way, I've got 2 options, unless somebody can give me a few ideas.

#1 - the easy way. Drill holes every 4-6" down the molding, seal and install stainless screws. Guess it would look like an Open Range then huh? I know how to make it leak proof. Maybe not the most appealing visually, but seems like that would hold it all together.
#2 - Purchase new non-insert molding, or just a cap molding (also screwed on, and install this over the existing molding. The thing with the cap molding is it's a more ridgid aluminum and won't warp under heat like the thin crap on there.

Either way involves screws, but gotta do something. I'm pretty sure when water gets behind the molding, it will eventually affect something. The existing molding is just stapled on and then the skirt fits up under it in the track and is somewhat heald in place with sealer and metal strapping, I've seen that, but I really prefer NOT to remove anything that is there.

Any ideas?

[ewaltseagle]

How old is your trailer? mine is doing the same thing on the drivers side on 6 month old trailer. If less then 2 years would warrantee cover it?

[BigJohnD]

Mine will be a year in November. It was cold when we bought it, and didn't start until it got hot again. I know it's under warranty, but I never go that route unless it's a last resort. Usually, between other forum members and batting around ideas in my own head, there's a better fix than any dealer would do. They'll just replace it, or say there is nothing they can do, and I'll be right back in the same spot. So, as usual, shooting for a fix that's better than what they'd do. I'm definitely not scared to tear into one since I've been there before. Just looking for input on the 2 suggestions I had, or maybe somebody has a different idea.

[ewaltseagle]

That's true... screws might be the way to go then. maybe drill and countersink stainless screws.

[BigJohnD]

Kind of what I'm thinking. Don't think I'd be able to countersink though. That molding is kind of like a J-Molding per say. Real thin too. But, I could still make a pan head look ok, especially if I painted them all gray or something to match. Or, just use painted screws like everything else on the thing. I'm not worried about changing things up from stock. Stock went away the first week we had it. It's been modded up inside and out. I just want the molding flat again, and that seam to stay sealed.

[Paintinfool3]

the j moulding you have shown if it is like the one on my 2015 is stapled on into the fiberglass sides and then the bottom skirt is slid up into it and fastened in just a few places with screws. If you look you can find all the screw points. when I was at the factory I really didn't like the way they were fastening them and a couple of ours are really crooked but I don't know what a real good fix would be

[BigJohnD]

You are exactly correct Paintinfool3. I tried to describe that but you did a pretty good job. I had the fender skirts off a while back and it was obvious how it all went together. Besides adding screws, which really wouldn't look that bad, I'm at a loss. My concern is water getting behind the j molding. Maybe it won't hurt anything, but since I haven't seen this specific unit built, I can't say it won't affect something. If water gets behind it, will it come in contact with the bottom edge of the luan / fiberglass wall? The bottom of the wall has to be somewhere. On our last fifth wheel, water did get behind a moulding, and did wick up into the wall / luan backing. This is why I'm a shade concerned with that seal being broken from the warping.

[Donztoyz]

We have the same issue on a year old Whitehawk 27 DSRL. So far only noticed it happening when in direct sunlite and only on the slideout. Appears that it is only secured with screws on each panel end. Once every thing cools down I can't find the spot that has the problem so it would be hard to show the dealer. Very interested in what others come up with to correct this.

[BigJohnD]

Kind of our scenario with the sun. It's only real bad when the sun is directly on it. There are a few screws, but if you slide the skirt out of the channel, you'll see the crown staples here and there. Not the best of installation. Guess I may be the test dummy to drill some holes here soon. Just glad to see I'm not the only one that's seen this. The more I think, the more I'm thinking I'll get some #8 x 1" stainless pan head screws, paint the heads if I can't find painted ones in stock, predrill holes every 4", fill hole and dab with geocel and install the screws. What could possibly go wrong. I've done almost every existing screw on the camper like this when it was new (remove, seal, reinstall), which was pretty time consuming.

[BigJohnD]

Looks like I may be the lone ranger on this one. It'll be a couple of weeks before I can tackle this since I'm offshore now, but will report back when it's done. In the mean time, I'm open to any other comments or suggestions to help with the brain storming.

[ctbailey]

BigJohnD: you are definitely not alone on this one. I've witnessed the same on my jayflight this weekend. The trim piece clearly has a different coefficient of thermal expansion than its neighboring materials. And the silicon (?) adhesive material holding it on absolutely ruptures leaving small gaps where water could penetrate.

There is probably not a drip edge for the exterior wall (because it's designed to be hidden by this roll pan drip panel)

I'm thinking screws would be just 40 more possible water penetrations. My thoughts are thinking about a dicor like material that cures, and run a bead over the trim piece while buckled. So when it cools the bead is pressed.

[BigJohnD]

I've actually done what you mentioned with the geocel since it expands and contracts very well, plus it sticks to everything. I applied it when it was bowed out. Over time though, it eventually started separating again, just not quite as bad. I'm confident with my screw method, at least the way I do it. No different than some of our previous rigs, except the screws went through a better moulding on them. Not saying my way is the best way, but I've resealed this thing several times, even stripping the original stuff off. My only other option is to go over the original moulding with an aluminum cap moulding like some of our older rigs had. It's still a screw in method though. I think we had spoke a while back on some thread about removing screws, sealing and reinstalling. I quit counting, but almost every screw on this rig has been removed, sealed and reinstalled. If the hole is filled, the screw is coated, and the head is sealed, it's pretty much good to go and rids of the wicking issue.

[ctbailey]

What screw types you thinking about? SSFlanged Roberts drive? Flanged... The ones that appear to have a cut washer molded into the head.

Do you think there's a rim board around the floor that these will seat into? My old forest river unit had aluminum square stock frame, with a perimeter around the floor. I don't know yet what this jayflight has at the wall/floor intersection.

[BigJohnD]

1" pan head SS w/roberts drive, and paint the heads to match if I can't find painted ones. Wouldn't torque them down hard due to the way the molding is (Like a upside down J). Torqueing too much would just dent the molding in pretty bad. Snug would do. I'm pretty sure there is a rim board (wood). Pretty easy to see once the fender skirt was off a while back. Those crown staples are into it real good.

[BigJohnD]

I said "see" the rim board. You can't see it, but you can look up under the camper, feel on the darco where the perimeter rim board is. The molding is secured into that.

[ctbailey]

Gotcha, I hear ya loud and clear. I'm liking the solution you present... With the sealed screws. Although that must slow ya down a bit to manually seal each one as it goes in.

[BigJohnD]

Very slow. Good rainy day project. I think I mentioned in an earlier post, but I'll be happy to be the test dummy since I can't come up with anything else yet. Worst case, later on, if it becomes an issue, I'll just rip the skirt and molding off and use a different type of molding. I still like the aluminum cap molding idea better, but I can't find it in pieces longer than 8'. I prefer the longer 16' pieces. Plus, with that molding, I'll have to notch it out around 2 of my hatches since the bottom of the hatches is right at the top of the molding, and notch my fender skirts where they fit better. I'm still open to any opinions or ideas. This is just all I have for now. Might stop by a few dealers on the way home from work, since some of them stock stuff like this. If I can find a piece, I'll get it just to brainstorm.

[BigJohnD]

ctbaily, take a look at these 2 links if you get time. These are a few of the types of molding I was looking at for going over the existing molding. The first one (white) looks the most simple, and I could paint it black, depending on how it looks. Second one requires the insert, which isn't a big deal.
96" White Aluminum Non Insert Side Trim Molding 1 440" x 360" RV Trialer | eBay
105" Pcs Aluminum Vinyl Insert Type Black Flat Trim RV Trailer Boat Motorhome | eBay

[BigJohnD]

So here's my new molding that will be installed over the existing "warping" molding. Will be putting a layer of 1-5/8" butyl over the existing molding, installing new molding over that, filling each screw hole and seat area with geocel, then running a bead of geocel where the new molding and sidewall meet. Will probably be next week when I complete, but will post pictures when it's done. It will look better than original.

[ctbailey]

Cool. Pilot holes or self tapping? The butyl tape self stick?