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07-19-2020, 09:20 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Fayetteville
Posts: 15
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Side Wall Separation...
I walked around my 2011 Jayco X213 travel trailer and noticed the side wall and rear wall beginning to separate at the rear passenger side (back corner). It looks like the rear wall has separated ~1/2" to 3/4". If I push on the rear wall, I can temporarily close the gap. I do not see any (exterior/interior) side wall de-lamination or other water related issues (roof).
I have searched the forum and found a few similar issues, but they were specific to 5th wheels and separation between the foundation/frame and the side walls (sagging).
I would appreciate any advise on how to fix this issue and/or an understanding of how the corner wall seams on a trailer are connected. I intend to fix it myself, but I want to make sure I don't create more problems.
Thank you in advance for your support.
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07-20-2020, 08:30 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 9,780
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Yuck! First thing cover the joint with a good tape, to keep water out. Secondly, conact Jayco, with your vin number and ask for the structural drawings.
With the drawings you should be able to make a plan. You will need to plan remove the corner molding.
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07-20-2020, 08:44 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Fayetteville
Posts: 15
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My wife and I covered the corner this afternoon to prevent water damage. I also looked at the other side and it is showing early signs of separation as well.
I am going to call Jayco tomorrow. It would be great if Jayco provided any structural plans or diagrams. I agree with your assessment that until I know what is behind the walls, it will be hard to ensure I have a good long-term plan. I am hoping I caught the problem early enough to save our Jayco and my wallet.
Thank you for the idea to contact Jayco.
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07-20-2020, 09:42 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: NE Oklahoma
Posts: 187
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I would at least have a repair shop/dealer look at this if you haven't done so. It could be an easy fix on both sides and a couple hundred bucks may be worth it if that is all it would be.
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07-21-2020, 04:25 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Lil Rhody
Posts: 160
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My 2004 5th wheel did this. When it gets to this point major water damage has already been done. At first I thought it was just the trim pulling away. I was very disappointed to find it was the entire wall pulling away. As a temporary fix I removed the vinyl trim and ran 4” deck screws though the corner trim to try to suck the rear wall back into position. The curb side is worse than than the road side. It worked but I am now ready to strip the panels from the rear wall to rebuild the framing. That is a plus for an aluminum sided camper.
__________________
SteveB
2004 Jayco JayFlight 285RKS 5th Wheel
2001 Dodge Ram (SOLD)
2015 RAM 3500 CTD
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07-21-2020, 09:47 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Wilmington
Posts: 121
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Our 2014 Octane separated at the front wall/right side wall. Found factory screws were barely long enough to catch the wood frame. Replaced all on both sides with 1 1/2" screws and has been good for the last 3 years.
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07-22-2020, 08:56 AM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Fayetteville
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steveb285rks
My 2004 5th wheel did this. When it gets to this point major water damage has already been done. At first I thought it was just the trim pulling away. I was very disappointed to find it was the entire wall pulling away. As a temporary fix I removed the vinyl trim and ran 4” deck screws though the corner trim to try to suck the rear wall back into position. The curb side is worse than than the road side. It worked but I am now ready to strip the panels from the rear wall to rebuild the framing. That is a plus for an aluminum sided camper.
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I really hope I don’t have major water damage. I looked inside the trailer and removed the rubber seam cover and couldn’t find any soft spots or water stains. I did remove one of the factory screws and they were only 1” long. It wouldn’t take a lot for them to separate from the corner support post.
I am going to ask my local Jayco RV Dealer to give me an estimate and repair plan. I still think I will try to fix it myself at least temporarily like you did with longer screws and then decide the long-term plan. I don’t believe I have many options with fiberglass siding.
Appreciate the feedback and good luck with your repair.
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07-22-2020, 08:59 AM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Fayetteville
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LabMan
Our 2014 Octane separated at the front wall/right side wall. Found factory screws were barely long enough to catch the wood frame. Replaced all on both sides with 1 1/2" screws and has been good for the last 3 years.
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That is encouraging news. I may try replacing the factory screws as well. I removed one of them and they were really short. Quite frankly, I was surprised Jayco used such short screws on a corner joint.
Overall, I am still happy with our Jayco and plan to keep it for many more years (assuming this doesn’t become a catastrophic water issue.
Thanks for the information on your 3-year old repair.
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07-22-2020, 10:40 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Gilroy
Posts: 475
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When the slide is extended that's a huge cantilevered load, not at all surprised to see that separation. Surprised that there aren't some sort of support. I would think about adding some sort of support after repairing.
__________________
Steve, Michele and Ginger
2012 Tacoma crew Cab Pre-Runner
Tow package, Scanguage, Timbrens
2016 Feather 7 18RBM
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07-24-2020, 07:21 PM
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#10
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Fayetteville
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagiven
Yuck! First thing cover the joint with a good tape, to keep water out. Secondly, conact Jayco, with your vin number and ask for the structural drawings.
With the drawings you should be able to make a plan. You will need to plan remove the corner molding.
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Jagiven,
Per your suggestion, I contacted Jayco and to my surprise, they provided the structural plans (blue print) for my trailer. I must admit I was surprised they responded as quickly as they did, but I have a better idea of what I may need to do to resolve my situation.
Based on the blueprints, there is “some” structural wood and an aluminum beam on the inside corner. The wall does not appear to be weight bearing wall, so I should be able to remove the existing outside screws and replace them with longer screws. I intend to add additional screws and waterproof RV silicone (I am sure there is a name for it) to ensure a stronger and water proof hold. The remaining concern is pushing in the back fiberglass wall without damaging it. It will take a fair amount of pressure, evenly distributed, to realign the corner.
I don’t think I will have time to tackle this project for a few months, but I will post an update ASAP.
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11-15-2020, 05:58 PM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: cottonwood
Posts: 11
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my x213 is also coming apart at the back corners. watching it as my wife closes the slide, the separation starts when the slide seals and the ratchet starts. when we open the slide all the way, the separation closes.
RV Cruisin, where in your drawings are the structural wood and aluminum beam? can they be accessed by angling some longer screws?
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11-15-2020, 06:11 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Sparwood, BC
Posts: 2,800
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Use longer screws (fine tread) which goes through the whole tubing (twice through aluminum), be sure to use butyl tape under the corner rail, and it will get a life time seal. That's how we do it in our shop.
__________________
2014 Ram 1500 CrewCab 4x4 5.7 Hemi 3.92 Rear and Air Lift 1000
2005 Jayco Jay Feather LGT - 29Y GVWR-7000 lbs.
Dexter Axle Lift 4-9/16" - installed with sub-frame.
Pro Series 1200 lbs. WDH with Double Sway Bar.
Champion 3100/2800 watt Inverter/Generator-Onboard Solar Power
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11-15-2020, 06:23 PM
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#13
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: cottonwood
Posts: 11
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ALJO, do you mean just replace the existing screws with longer ones?
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11-15-2020, 06:55 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Sparwood, BC
Posts: 2,800
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Yes - The original screws are short and do not reach the second part of the aluminum tubing. Self drilling screws with a fine tread hold the best. Tubing is 1" square aluminum.
Be sure to use the automotive butyl tape (is available at RV stores) as it will last.
__________________
2014 Ram 1500 CrewCab 4x4 5.7 Hemi 3.92 Rear and Air Lift 1000
2005 Jayco Jay Feather LGT - 29Y GVWR-7000 lbs.
Dexter Axle Lift 4-9/16" - installed with sub-frame.
Pro Series 1200 lbs. WDH with Double Sway Bar.
Champion 3100/2800 watt Inverter/Generator-Onboard Solar Power
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11-15-2020, 07:04 PM
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#15
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: cottonwood
Posts: 11
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good info. i appreciate the fast reply.
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11-15-2020, 07:58 PM
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#16
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Fayetteville
Posts: 15
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Problem still not solved
I replaced the original short screws and used tape under the metal corners. The repair (screws and tape) appears to be temporary because there is still something causing pressure on the corner seam. I haven’t been able to find out if the entire slide out is loose thereby causing pressure on the corner seam when I move the slide in and out.
Do you know how the slide out is anchored to the frame? And how to access the (slide out & frame) connection to verify the connection isn’t loose?
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11-15-2020, 09:08 PM
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#17
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Fayetteville
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ned37
good info. i appreciate the fast reply.
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Ned37,
A few additional recommendations/watch outs:
1. I added some waterproof silicone to the threads of the new screws to try and create a more waterproof seal. I don’t remember the name of the silicone product I used, but it was RV specific sealant.
2. Be careful not to over tighten the new screws. The aluminum beam is not very strong. I accidentally stripped one of the screws by over tightening.
3. There is also Jayco X213 Facebook page. I found another person with the same issue, however, they found a few screws loose near the slide out motor which caused their problem.
Good luck and please post an update once you have finished your repairs. I am hoping to find out the cause of the corner separation.
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11-15-2020, 10:19 PM
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#18
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: cottonwood
Posts: 11
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here are a couple of pics that show the gap at the seal. you can see the difference between slide in (left)and out (right)
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11-15-2020, 10:57 PM
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#19
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Fayetteville
Posts: 15
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Looks familiar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ned37
here are a couple of pics that show the gap at the seal. you can see the difference between slide in (left)and out (right)
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Ned37,
Unfortunately, your pictures look familiar. As mentioned above, I can’t figure out what is putting pressure on the seam when the slide is pulled in.
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11-16-2020, 01:42 PM
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#20
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: cottonwood
Posts: 11
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what is the law about action and opposite action? the force that pushes the slide forward will put an opposite force on the track mounts (back wall). personally, i can't see how it could NOT push out the wall.
i did as ALJO recommended, but it still moves. maybe not quite as much. the 1x1 aluminum sq tubing is probably bowing some. the only thing i can think of is to somehow secure that sq tubing to the side wall too, but screws on the outside would not look good.
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