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Old 01-12-2015, 11:40 PM   #1
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Small electric heater fan tripping breakers

2010 Eagle 318RLS. Running a 30 amp plug in service. These are two holmes, digitally controlled thermostat, that got rave reviews on Amazon for this exact purpose.

It does it sporadically, which is what's confusing. Sometimes it will run all night no problems. Other times it will not. No, it's not because I am running other things also. The one for the bedroom is tied onto the same circuit as my big screen TV for the rear, so maybe the TV and that is too much. Still, I can't imagine a small plug in heater tripping a 15 amp breaker. When I run both of them at the same time, on two different outlets that are controlled by two different breakers, one time it tripped a local 15 amp, as well as the 30 amp main for the entire trailer.

If the heaters are just too much, fine. But as a contractor, that indicates to me inferior wiring, and that is my concern.
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Old 01-13-2015, 12:05 AM   #2
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I would try running one of them on a lower setting.
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Old 01-13-2015, 12:17 AM   #3
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No lower setting. Thermostat set at temp. No low speed.
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Old 01-13-2015, 05:22 AM   #4
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No, it is not inferior wiring.

If it is an 1800 watt heater (which is the maximum 120V unit that can be had) and your voltage is 120V then the current is 15 amps. I=P/E. So you can see that adding the TV load could easily trip the breaker. Two heaters and the converter load would trip the 30 amp main breaker too.

Even with a lower in voltage and the resulting current drop (this is not true for an air conditioner load) you are still operating right near the limits of the circuit.
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Old 01-13-2015, 07:24 AM   #5
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If you are tripping the main that says they draw more than 15amps or the CG is experiencing low voltage issues which would increase the current draw.
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Old 01-13-2015, 07:34 AM   #6
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Are you running the water heater on electric at the same time? That would also add to the total load when it cycles on. We try to only run one heating type appliance (heater, electric fry pan, toaster, hair curlers, etc.) at a time when on a 30 amp circuit. That seems to work with the water heater on electric.
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Old 01-13-2015, 09:11 AM   #7
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Better get an amp prob,check your draw ..
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Old 01-13-2015, 09:24 AM   #8
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Whenever we can we always like to run a drop cord into the trailer plugged in the campground 20AMP Service at their pedestal. Then we can plug things like the portable 120VAC heaters etc into that which does not effect the 30AMP service connection feeding the trailer.

You obviously have more 120VAC items running at the same time then you think.

The converter/charger draws alot of current when in boost charge mode- also the hot water heater may be on electric and cycling on and off...

There are several things in your trailer 30AMP configuration that could cause the main breaker to trip when alot of large wattage items are being used.

We have a large round type vacuum cleaner that draws a bunch of wattage. It will trip our circuit breaker if we are using that and kick on the Microwave etc...

30AMp Service is not a whole lot of juice... Just 15AMPS more than a regular house type 120VAC receptacle...

Roy Ken
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Old 01-13-2015, 09:35 AM   #9
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It's the amperage that trips breakers, and any heating devise will draw a lot of amps. I have a small aftermarket electric heater/fireplace for my Eagle. Before my first trip, I read a few posts, here, and decided to run an extension cord out the corner of my slide-out and directly to the 20A outlet on the campsite post to operate my heater. At one campground, the post was too far away for my extension cord to reach. I plugged the heater into an inside receptacle, and switched my water heater over to gas to avoid popping a breaker. That worked fine until the next morning when I turned on the coffee maker . . . popped a breaker immediately! From my readings on The Forum, I knew exactly what the problem was - thanks again to everyone for their informative and helpful posts. I switched off the heater and turned on the furnace, reset the breaker, turned the coffee maker back on, and all was well. After enjoying a cup or two of Jo, I headed to the hardware store and purchased a second heavy-duty extension cord, then reconnected the heater to the CG electrical post.

When setting up at a new campsite, I extend the slide about 1/2 way out, which opens up a gap at the lower corner that's large enough to pass the female end of the extension cord through from the outside. Then I go back inside the trailer, pull in enough extension cord to reach the heater, and finish extending the slide. This method works great for me and I haven't tripped a breaker since! For those without a slide, you may be able to run your extension cord through a gap at the side of the bed, into your pass-thru storage, and out a hatch door.

Hope this helps you stay warm!
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Old 01-13-2015, 09:44 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by RoyBraddy View Post



30AMp Service is not a whole lot of juice... Just 15AMPS more than a regular house type 120VAC receptacle...

Roy Ken
Hardly anyone understands this and you have a family and sometimes more living in this one room.
I too run a 20 amp cord to the poll out the corner of my Hybrid just for my small space heater and dehumidifier.
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Old 01-13-2015, 10:09 AM   #11
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Yeah that was really good info, I didn't think in terms of a 30 amp service only be 2 outlets That's not much at all. It is a 1500 W heater. And I didn't think about water heater at all. I was assuming this is all plug-in stuff, as the water heater has its own separate breaker Thanks everyone, wonderful information.
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Old 01-13-2015, 12:47 PM   #12
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1500 watts = 12.5 amps. 2 = 25 amps, which leaves 5 amps for everything else.
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Old 01-13-2015, 01:21 PM   #13
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Water heater, micro wave, toaster, coffee maker, elec heater, and some vacuums are amp hogs. Run any of them on the same circuit at the same time and "POP". Run more than 2 at the same time and "POP". Like it was said, 30A isn't a lot of juice.

I pretty much always run the water heater on gas just to avoid power issues. Remember to ration the use of the above items. Wife always likes to hit the toaster that is plugged into the same circuit at a heater, "POP"!
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Old 01-13-2015, 02:28 PM   #14
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1500 watts = 12.5 amps. 2 = 25 amps, which leaves 5 amps for everything else.
X2

I have tripped the breaker when running just one heater, and something else kicks in at just the right moment. I have tried to run two electric heaters when it is really cold, but would blow the main 30 amp breaker.

Now if I want to run two heaters, I have a heavy duty extension cord that I snake in under the slideout, to run one heater, and the other heater runs off the camper's shower power setup.

I still have to turn off the one heater if we want to make coffee, use the microwave or some other heavy pulling item. I have been luck, and not have had any issues with the electric water heater once it is up to temp.
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Old 01-14-2015, 06:48 PM   #15
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tnchuck100 is right on. Divide your watts like 1500 watt heater by your voltage/ 110volts and you have about 14 amps or close to that. The draw on that outlet will be about max. for the circuit.
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Old 01-14-2015, 07:24 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by RoyBraddy View Post
Whenever we can we always like to run a drop cord into the trailer plugged in the campground 20AMP Service at their pedestal. Then we can plug things like the portable 120VAC heaters etc into that which does not effect the 30AMP service connection feeding the trailer.

You obviously have more 120VAC items running at the same time then you think.

The converter/charger draws alot of current when in boost charge mode- also the hot water heater may be on electric and cycling on and off...

There are several things in your trailer 30AMP configuration that could cause the main breaker to trip when alot of large wattage items are being used.

We have a large round type vacuum cleaner that draws a bunch of wattage. It will trip our circuit breaker if we are using that and kick on the Microwave etc...

30AMp Service is not a whole lot of juice... Just 15AMPS more than a regular house type 120VAC receptacle...

Roy Ken
RoyBraddy, does the converter that keeps the batteries topped off constantly charging while plugged in or does it trickle to charge them up as needed???
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Old 01-14-2015, 07:41 PM   #17
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Yeah you can likely only get by with one of those running. Some folks run a separate extension cord to the 20 amp outlet on the pedastal to run a second heater, if that is available.
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Old 01-14-2015, 07:43 PM   #18
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RoyBraddy, does the converter that keeps the batteries topped off constantly charging while plugged in or does it trickle to charge them up as needed???
Many of the newer RV`s have "smart chargers" in the converter that will not overcharge the battery. I leave mine plugged in 24/7 and the battery is now over 5 yrs old, never had an issue.
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Old 01-14-2015, 10:01 PM   #19
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Running a cord outside to the power post, so simple ... why didn't this caveman ever think of this? Many thanks for this tip.
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Old 01-15-2015, 10:13 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Cheaperrooter View Post
2010 Eagle 318RLS. Running a 30 amp plug in service. These are two holmes, digitally controlled thermostat, that got rave reviews on Amazon for this exact purpose.

It does it sporadically, which is what's confusing. Sometimes it will run all night no problems. Other times it will not. No, it's not because I am running other things also. The one for the bedroom is tied onto the same circuit as my big screen TV for the rear, so maybe the TV and that is too much. Still, I can't imagine a small plug in heater tripping a 15 amp breaker. When I run both of them at the same time, on two different outlets that are controlled by two different breakers, one time it tripped a local 15 amp, as well as the 30 amp main for the entire trailer.

If the heaters are just too much, fine. But as a contractor, that indicates to me inferior wiring, and that is my concern.
If you are tripping breakers regularly. Do you have a plug in voltmeter in a conspicuous outlet that you can monitor at all times. Not uncommon to see low voltage in proportion to your load or available at the post. Anything <105vac spells potential trouble. Does the plug end of your power cord seem warm as well as the last foot of cable? Have you noticed deformation of the plug where the electrodes are imbedded in the plug. Happens from drawing too much current, low post voltage and using 30A to 15A adaptors. You may need a new plug end. Suggest Arcon 18203 30-Amp Replacement Generator Power Plug from Amazon that screws directly to the cable with no crimp connectors
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