Snow camping

[Mattawa]

Heated underbelly concern......? Have a 2018 Jayco 324BHTS Eagle planning on snow camping a lot and I have read in places that the heated underbelly duct in some cases is not even there. Dealer says oh yea sure sure sure heated underbelly as long as the furnace is running. Does anyone have the heated underbelly duct general location? I am really wanting to satisfy curiosity.

[Grumpy]

It may just be some openings in the metal ductwork under the floor.

[Kahoneys]

Our 2016 Northpoint has a flex hose that is laid near the water pump and has an open end. It is not fixed down at all and probably has moved around a bunch since I found it.

[spoon059]

If you have a furnace and underbelly insulation you have a "heated underbelly". All that means is that the furnace ducting runs near your tanks. Between the warm ducting and the insulation, it can keep the tanks from freezing a little longer.

[Mattawa]

I notice in the control panel there is a cut out for tank heaters. Probably a generic template used for lots of models.
Say 20F for 15hrs through night, temps might climb above freezing during day but not for long.
Does anyone have this type of camping experience?

My last camper I always went dry, flushed with pink antifreeze, had a back up generator and lots of propane.

I would like to have water as an option this yr. thanks in advance.

[DaveT]

Originally Posted by spoon059

If you have a furnace and underbelly insulation you have a "heated underbelly". All that means is that the furnace ducting runs near your tanks. Between the warm ducting and the insulation, it can keep the tanks from freezing a little longer.

Not always true.

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...oor-53297.html

[ALJO]

For winter camping have your unit well equipped. A mild frost on a standard RV with underbelly might prevent the tanks and plumbing from freezing.

Mine TT has heating pad on the FW tank and heat tape on the suction line. And actual heating duct with regulator between the gray and black tank, plus heat tape on the discharge. Above the chloroplast I installed R12 insulation. You'll use a lot of propane to keep things warm as most RV's are R7. When you have conditions of -20 F or -28 C, you better have skirting otherwise you still might get into trouble.

In order to run heat tape while travelling you need a power source adequate enough, either a 12 volt or 110 source depends on the system.

You also have to consider equipment failure, backup generator, portable electric heat etc.

Alternatives are: the use of potty-potty, bottled water and use a closed 5 gallon pale for gray water. Means you have to improvise.

[Mattawa]

Copy!
Turkey day get away check.
Temps 28-40F
1-30lb tank empty
No frozen pipes!

I’m currently in the process of adding R-16 above coroplast and 4 tank heaters each on there own circuit .
Does anyone have experience installing heating pads?
Which manufacture did you choose and why?
What temps have you stayed the night in so far. Thanks in advance

[JohnWedell]

If you concerned about the water tanks freezing I would get a thermometer to measure the water temperature every hour or so to see how far the temperature dropped. if it gets close to 32 you know you’re going to have a problem

[Redwing]

Last year I took my tt camper hunting and I do not have a enclosed under belly. The 1st night my fresh water inlet froze when temps dropped to 24 degrees. Heat tape solved this and we had no issues Low’s were around 23/24 nightly highs of low 30’s. This year we took a sportsman and grey wolf tt with winter packages. When the low hit 20 the greywolf froze the fresh water inlet. With the sportsman If we kept the inside temp at 70 degree we had in issues with lows down as low as 16. Lessons learned put a ton of anti freeze in holding values from freezing. Open cupboard doors on cold nights. All issues were fixed quickly and we did not damage to any of the tt,s.

[Mattawa]

Thx. For the info! Tonight I have ordered pad heaters insulated Between crossmembers that house FW tank. Tank was loose in between the crossmembers-like 2.5inches loose, just floating between the crossmembers... supported with 3/8x1 flat bar.
Foam board around 4 sides helped snug it up.
Suction line and drain was wrapped and rerouted, it was kinked.
1.5inch foam board installed in last cross member.
After I get heat pads I will fill cavity with R19.
I will need to make dam around slide rack and pinion so insulation won’t interfear.
List goes on. Time will tell, should be done by this wknd. I’m taking pics along the way.