Solar panel add on for 2017 prewired

[Stephen Ling]

Hello

Does the prewired arrangement allow for direct plug in to solar panel or are additional components required?

[klassic]

All you get is a connector on the roof, a connector on the side (for a small self contained, portable unit), the wiring to the batteries and (in some cases) a small auto breaker.
You need, the solar panels, mounting, solar controller, fuses/breakers and disconnects and decent batteries. Some of that depends on the size of the system you want.

Lots of info from members here and lots of pictures too.

Here's my 520watt setup. (Because I like to show pictures of it..lol)

Two 160w panels


Morningstar MPPT controller


Morningstar EMC1 Ethernet module connected to a wifi router


Remote moniter


Some breakers and what-nots

[sennister]

It should be noted that I think what you get with the prewired for solar depends on what model camper/motorhome you have. While the higher end campers may have roof connectors I wouldn't count on that across all Jaycos. We haven't done the PDI yet on our camper and I am planning on looking into this more but from what I have been reading the Jay Feather line consists of a 2 pin SAE port on the A Frame that goes to the battery. That is it. There are no controllers or prep to install one, no roof mounted connection ports or anything more than a wire to the battery. It is simply a port where the suitcase style panels can be plugged in without having to access the battery. However those kits also normally ship with alligator clips that could be clipped direct to the battery if this solar ready feature wasn't there.

This is where many times it is seen as little more than $10 in parts to add another line to the feature list. However as I said what is included likely is very different depending on the camper. In the case of a Jay Feather it is at a price point where I wouldn't expect much more than a $10 connector prewired to the battery. It isn't like the camper is equipped with tanks big enough for long term dry camping. If I was spending closer to $100K I would think they have more margin to actually add ports on the roof and run those wires to locations where PWM or MPPT Controllers could be located for a much more usable system.

On a more positive note, if my camper does only consist of a 2 pin SAE port to the battery I might use it for other things. I have a couple motorcycles and I use 2 pin SAE for some accessories that could come in handy around the camp. For instance an air compressor to inflate a low tire or water inflatables or maybe some 12v remote lights. Of course those things will be a hit on the battery but if I have full hookups or running a generator that is fine.

[jsallman1]

Originally Posted by sennister

It should be noted that I think what you get with the prewired for solar depends on what model camper/motorhome you have. While the higher end campers may have roof connectors I wouldn't count on that across all Jaycos. We haven't done the PDI yet on our camper and I am planning on looking into this more but from what I have been reading the Jay Feather line consists of a 2 pin SAE port on the A Frame that goes to the battery. That is it.

Thats exactly how our Jayflight 29BHDS is, A-Frame connector for a portable unit and there was a plug for said A-Frame connector included to wire to your future solar system. No controller I have found, and definitely no roof connection.

[DaveT]

Originally Posted by sennister

This is where many times it is seen as little more than $10 in parts to add another line to the feature list.

This

[corkscrew]

I have a 2017 Jay Flight 28RLS with solar prewire. Mine is the sae connector on the frame near the front of the trailer. I suggest that you do as I have done. First, I disconnected the battery. I then checked the continuity from the hot lead of the sae connector and found that it is attached to a fuse/breaker on the front of the trailer near the battery box and then into a junction box and then to the battery... I had my dealer install a battery disconnect so I checked the continuity with the disconnect "on" and "off"... Anyway, I was able to determine that the sae connector went directly to the power source (through the inline breaker) and that the technician had correctly routed the solar prewire independent of the battery disconnect... Now with that confirmed and much research I found that the prewire DOES NOT INCLUDE A SOLAR CONTROLLER which is necessary to assure that you do not overcharge your rv battery/batteries and that the system does not bleed your batteries back throught the solar panels at night. I use my solar prewire solely as a battery maintainer during storage. The sae prewire on my Jay Flight is not designed for a high wattage system which usually incorporates and inverter and multiple batteries but more as a battery maintainer or for charging with portable panels if you are off grid... You can find solar panels that have a controller built in but do your homework to make sure it fills your needs and protects against overcharging and battery depletion. Another recommendation, use a moncrystaline solar panel as they work better in cloudy conditions as opposed to poly panels. I modified a pole mount bracket that I attach to my front electric jack when parked to which I have mounted a 10 watt mono panel to an inline fuse to a zamp 8 amp controller to another inline fuse to an sae plug on the mount I made... I then made a short cable with a male sae on each end that I plug into the female sae plug on the soalr panel mount and then into the female sae prewire plug on the trailer... make sure you watch the polarity on your jumper cable when fabricating it... Mine works like a charm and was well worth the effort... I have a 25 watt panel I also bought but haven't needed more than the 10 watt I already have... One note.... you must make sure your battery/batteries on your trailer are fully charged BEFORE using a solar maintainer as they will not fully charge a depleted battery... My trailer has two six volt batteries in series making it a 12 volt system.

[cathidon]

We just purchased a 2018 27RL prewired with the assumption that we could add a 160 watt roof solar panel and controller to this system. According to the dealer, the wiring in place is not heavy gauge enough for this which seems odd since the smallest roof GOPower makes is 160 watt. I guess for smaller TT they assume you are going with a portable with no controller?

[bdreinv]

Originally Posted by cathidon

We just purchased a 2018 27RL prewired with the assumption that we could add a 160 watt roof solar panel and controller to this system. According to the dealer, the wiring in place is not heavy gauge enough for this which seems odd since the smallest roof GOPower makes is 160 watt. I guess for smaller TT they assume you are going with a portable with no controller?

Check with Go Power on what your max panel size. On our 16 Eagle up top is 300 watts.The another temp plug in on the side of our camper for another 100 watt panel.Remember there are limitations for your controller! We pieced our system together for 1/2 the price of Go Power,they also did not offer MPPT controllers.Thanks

[Bduck100]

I have a 2018 29w. Looking for solar wire after it leaves the box beside the battery. There must be a place to connect a solar charger. Any help appreciated.

[Gizmopilot]

I have a 2018 322rlok, I just found a wiring panel behind my battery disconnect and the solar prep is connected there. It looks like it could be connected to a solar controller first and then have the controller out connected at that spot instead.

[bdreinv]

Originally Posted by Bduck100

I have a 2018 29w. Looking for solar wire after it leaves the box beside the battery. There must be a place to connect a solar charger. Any help appreciated.

I would call Jayco. On are 2016 Eagle it was pretty simple. Had plug in jack on the roof for the panels. And a decal on the wall above the steps,were to cut hole to mount the controller. Thanks

[docdvm]

The charge controller in the wall above the steps is a long way from the batteries. I would have thought the wires would terminate at the battery conpartment

[Gizmopilot]

On my eagle I have the panel in the hallway as well and it is labeled at a max of 30 amps. The solar panel connection at the a frame has a label of 20 amp max.

In the front storage compartment is my battery disconnect and it is on a wood panel held with two screws remove them and I have a wiring diagram, and auto resetting circuit breakers. On mine it is labeled where the different solar connections are.

Mine was not wired correctly that I have since corrected after I took this photo (attached)

Keep in mind the cabling is “rated” at 30 amps so they are trying to make it easy for a kit install.

If you don’t mount your controller in the hallway and mount it at the battery disconnect and use the wires mounted there as the inputs to a good mppt controller you can then take the the output from the controller and mount a higher amp circuit breaker 50amp for instance. Now you can wire your panels in series and in parallel just don’t exceed 30 amps and what ever the open voltage rating is of your mppt controller - I have a 100/50 that I will be using to mount 2 400+ watt panels (yes I know the controller wont put out more than 720 watts but I don’t expect my panels to ever put out maxx watts.)

My controller is also Bluetooth (victron energy) so I don’t need the remote display in the hallway I will just use my iphone or ipad when I want to see it’s status. The overall price will be much cheaper and more capable than the “kit”. I used this savings to help pay for 2 battleborn 100ah batteries and a victron energy bmv-712 to monitor them and a westinghouse igen4500 for when there is not solar. And the 2 microair soft starts, which allows the generator to actually run both 15k ac’s, converter, and residential fridge simultaneously.

Fyi by orderering the eagle with the residential fridge that includes a xantrex 1200/2400 freedom x pure sinwave inverter and auto transfer. There is a plug by the stove that is also supplied via the inverter.

My converter PD4560 also came with the updated circuit board that allows you to move the jumper from lead acid(wiz) to Lithium which allows much faster charging from generator/shore power when used with lithium batteries.

Hope this helps I covered alot of my updates.

[docdvm]

You have more than I can afford at this time
I am installing 200 100 watt panels oping to connect to the prewire on the roof and then connecting a 30A breaker folowed by a 30 amp charge controller. Run cables to the 2 12V deep cycle batteries and also to a 1500 watt inverter have a 150 amp breaker also that I can use as a shutoff along with the 30 amp. I was considering just running 2 extension cords to 2 outlets in the living area.

I use the trailer to travel with and don't have much time to camp while working in summer. Winters here are long and cold so for the moment I am not planning to camp or be a snowbird this winter. If the batteries will stay charged in storage ready for use whenever we can get away I am OK with that. Then use a couple of plugs for TV or Coffee maker or toaster or fan or small heater I would be OK too. There are far more knowledgeable and dedicated RV'ers on this board. I am a newbie and have a lot to learn from you.

[Gizmopilot]

I live in the Buffalo NY area and am familiar with impressive winters.

2 lead acid batteries may not hold up well to a 1500 watt discharge that is about 125a at 12 volt.

That is one of the reasons why I switched mine out to lithium, they end up being much less expensive in the long run with that kind of need.

I worked out the financing up front when I bought my new eagle a couple months ago to roll this into the price with my credit union. If the gives you any ideas.

[docdvm]

Examined the battery compartment.It is a birdsnest but I don't see any wiring that could be solar. There is a fuse or breaker attached to the positive wire and a switch as well connected to the black (-ve?) terminal and then to the trailer I assume. Behind the battery cutoff are 3 connections with a wiring diagram for the solar. I am no electrician so do not know what they are. Terminal blocks or breakers? In addition there is a junction box above the battery switch and not connected to it. A thick white wire runs into it and a black and white runs out wire runs into it and a black out neither goes to the battery.
There is a go power solar sticker on the wall next to the stairs and I think I can dismantle the back of a cupboard to see what wires there are behind it. I would like to install the charge control box next to the battery though not in the location intended. Would I not lose power installing the controller so far from the battery and likely with lighter gauge wire?

[Gizmopilot]

It is hard to make out from your pictures but my best guess is the grey box next to the whole in the plywood (back of disconnect switch) is a 30 amp auto resetting circuit breaker my best guess is the thickest red wire comes from the roof solar. It also looks like you have a sanicon that shares that breaker. (That black box with all wires is probably the sanicon relay that gets triggered with the switch)

If you can look at the wire in your hallway see what awg it says and see what the wire awg is on the circuit breaker I described.

If you want to be sure get a tone generator (amazon sells them for about 20$) and disconnect that cable and verify it that way.

(Obviously disconnect the power and batteries first)

[docdvm]

Placed my order with Amazon and then will try to locate the wired. Thanks for your help

[Gizmopilot]

Good luck

[Thighmaster]

Good luck. One thing is for sure, nothing about the so-called “solar ready” is actually plug-and-play. For now I got 100w of parallel panels with a simple controller from Harbor Freight for $40, and I alligator clip to the battery. It’s plenty for two of us in our Hummingbird.