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Old 03-23-2018, 11:36 PM   #1
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Solar to converter panel or battery

I want to wire my solar to my battery wires that feed my converter. However I also want my solar always connected to my batteries.

If I leave my converter connected to my battery will it put a load on them or is that connection only for charging?


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Old 03-24-2018, 08:40 AM   #2
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I want to wire my solar to my battery wires that feed my converter. However I also want my solar always connected to my batteries.

If I leave my converter connected to my battery will it put a load on them or is that connection only for charging?
Your SOLAR panels get connect directly to a SOLAR Charge controller which connects DIRECTLY to your batteries. You can not directly connect SOLAR panels directly to the batteries as they can/will overcharge your batteries, and boil the fluid.

Also put a fuse or breaker between your panels and your SOLAR charge controller and a fuse or breaker between your SOLAR Charge controller and your batteries. The reason is two-fold. First when you connect or disconnect your SOLAR panels, you need to disconnect the SOLAR panels before disconnecting the SOLAR charge controller from the batteries. When hooking up the SOLAR or reconnecting, you need to connect the SOLAR charge controller to the batteries before connecting the SOLAR panels. This protects the SOLAR Charge controller circuit board that gets its operating power from the batteries. Secondly it is a safety issue.

The TT's Battery charge controller will work along with your SOLAR Charge controller. The only time you need to turn off the TT's battery charge controller is when you are dry-camping and using an inverter to power your TT's outlets. If you only use an inverter with an extension cord to run a TV, there is now need to turn off the TT's battery charge controller.

Don

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Old 03-24-2018, 09:15 AM   #3
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I am new to RVing, though cruised extensively on boats. I now have a small Hummingbird 17 that has a solar connector for the battery. I am looking at purchasing a 10w solar tickler which will plug into that connection only for day use when camping, not full time. Will I need a controller when plugging in the tickler mat into the connection or since I'm only using it a short time, do you think I'll be ok with a direct connection? It does not appear from the manual that there is a built in controller. Thanks for your help
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Old 03-24-2018, 10:02 AM   #4
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I am new to RVing, though cruised extensively on boats. I now have a small Hummingbird 17 that has a solar connector for the battery. I am looking at purchasing a 10w solar tickler which will plug into that connection only for day use when camping, not full time. Will I need a controller when plugging in the tickler mat into the connection or since I'm only using it a short time, do you think I'll be ok with a direct connection? It does not appear from the manual that there is a built in controller. Thanks for your help


You would have to double check, but most of those types have a simple controller built in.


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Old 03-24-2018, 09:19 PM   #5
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Well I wired directly to battery. Took all day but my solar install is done!


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Old 03-25-2018, 10:44 AM   #6
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Ah I now see why you put a fuse between the panels and controller. I did it the easy way. I throw a blanket over the solar panels when I had to work on the system. :-)
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Old 03-25-2018, 08:44 PM   #7
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Your SOLAR panels get connect directly to a SOLAR Charge controller which connects DIRECTLY to your batteries. You can not directly connect SOLAR panels directly to the batteries as they can/will overcharge your batteries, and boil the fluid.

Also put a fuse or breaker between your panels and your SOLAR charge controller and a fuse or breaker between your SOLAR Charge controller and your batteries. The reason is two-fold. First when you connect or disconnect your SOLAR panels, you need to disconnect the SOLAR panels before disconnecting the SOLAR charge controller from the batteries. When hooking up the SOLAR or reconnecting, you need to connect the SOLAR charge controller to the batteries before connecting the SOLAR panels. This protects the SOLAR Charge controller circuit board that gets its operating power from the batteries. Secondly it is a safety issue.

The TT's Battery charge controller will work along with your SOLAR Charge controller. The only time you need to turn off the TT's battery charge controller is when you are dry-camping and using an inverter to power your TT's outlets. If you only use an inverter with an extension cord to run a TV, there is now need to turn off the TT's battery charge controller.

Don

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Musttang65, First off, I have ordered fuse holders for both sides of my solar controller as I have seen you talk about in the past.

I have been thinking, (that always costs me extra work). In my case and many others I park my travel trailer at my house. If you look at my profile pic the house is about 10 feet from the TT bumper. I have a very open sky to the south. You can see the sun through the clouds and snow.

Now the big question. If I had 200 or 400 watts of solar panels on the camp trailer to charge the batteries when boondocking. How could I put those panels and batteries to work for me when the TT is parked at the house? Could I somehow hook the solar to the house to use when the camper is parked at the house? That would reduce my power bill at the house and get a faster payback for the solar panels. I would have no idea where to start with something like that.

Like I said thinking always costs me work.

Have a nice day and thank you for your service.
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Old 03-26-2018, 05:53 AM   #8
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Wow, have not heard this question in a few years. I tried to search for the original post regarding this. It is out there somewhere. I was asked if a member could hook his SOLAR up to a CG meter and his home. The answer was yes and no. Local governing rules (based on the national rules for SOLAR installations) will NOT go for it (at least mine will not). At the time I did some research on it.

The CG redid their electrical a few years ago and had the required new smart meters installed at the end of each run (each site has a regular meter). I know that the old meters (non smart) will not rotate in reverse, the newer electronic meters will produce a code and send to the meter reader if you are producing power. So you would actually be doubling your usage. The new smart meter handles this. Also, if you decided to just give it a try, the electric company has a way of knowing if the electrical on the line is being fed from an external source.

When I talked to the Electric company worker, he said with the new meter it will alert the electric company, they come out and look at what is being fed by the meter, isolate the external power source and pull the meter, and of course you will be charged for a disconnect/reconnect charge after the solar has been removed. Where we camp, he said all I have to do is go up on the hill and see who has solar on their roofs if we did not have a smart meter to look at.

Your TT would also need to meet ALL local and national codes for solar.

With that being said, the minimum for installing SOLAR here (Electric company requirement yours may be different) is 1200 watts. Roof mounted, is the easiest to get approved, and very affordable. So after you get the 1200 watts installed, you can pick up a micro-inverter for each of your TT's solar panels. Wire a switch that will allow you to select either SOLAR power to the TT or to the micro-inverter that will connect to the house SOLAR wiring.

That SOLAR panel on the TT needs to follow the code.

I would not recommend doing it as most people will not wire to code, and it can be a safety issue. Also, the amount of SOLAR panels on a TT will not be enough to have much of an impact on your electric bill. You also need to use residential higher voltage panels over the lower voltage RV panels.

GREAT thinking out of the box.

In the future as technology changes, more and more RV's get SOLAR, there may be an option down the road to just plugin your RV into the CG electrical and get a reduction in your bill from the CG for cutting their electrical bill a little. Now you add SOLAR to 100 RV's in the CG and that can make a good dent in the electric bill, or your overnight charge, but each site would need a Smart meter.

Yes, I was thinking of doing this back then also.

Don

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