Stabilizers..What's the best now.

[Ustabslim]

Need stabilizers. Only post I could find was in 2012. What's out there now.
Thanks

[NC Roamer]

Our 2014 Greyhawk came from the factory equipped with Bigfoot levelers. While we have not used them much as the RV is still new, I have already decided I like them. Others will have to weigh in on their dependability over the long haul, but as far as ease of use, they could not be simpler. One button up and one button down.

[Ustabslim]

Originally Posted by NC Roamer

Our 2014 Greyhawk came from the factory equipped with Bigfoot levelers. While we have not used them much as the RV is still new, I have already decided I like them. Others will have to weigh in on their dependability over the long haul, but as far as ease of use, they could not be simpler. One button up and one button down.

Mine came with the electric front and rear but I still get some movement that needs to be addressed.

[NC Roamer]

Oops. I now realize you are referring to TT stabilizers which are not the same thing as leveling jacks. Please pardon my confusion, but this is all still new to me. While I am learning a lot from this forum, there's still much to be learned.

[Seann45]

Personally I would go with manual ones.. electrics one more thing to fail.. and as a campground host in the summer I have seen many that did not work on arrival at the campground and some were so jammed up they could not be put down manually.. here is what I recommend
http://www.ultra-fab.com/new_detail....gnum=48-979006

[ruswms]

Could it be the electric stabilizers might need some occasional maintenance to work properly after some time outdoors. I sure enjoy those on my trailer.

[nylyon]

I think that you need a combination of things. I have Steady Fast stabilizers on my 5th. It takes out a lot of the movement, but not all. Add to that the X-Chock and you are likely to get rid of most of the movement. However the longer campers still have an issue with the frame flexing so adding another stabilizer in the wheel area may help eliminate that.

I chose the Steady Fast because I felt that they would be the easiest to setup at the campground considering they have 1 oversized wing nut per stabilizer (3 for my 5th).

My preference for that would be electric stabilizer jacks which are the same as the factory installed. As you can see, these are pricy (but so convenient) so the manuals are a better value.

As for the reliability of the electric's. Mine have failed. Water entered the motor and destroyed the bottom brush spring. I was able to repair it enough for it to work, and this week I will make the permanent repair.

[BillMc40]

Originally Posted by Seann45

Personally I would go with manual ones.. electrics one more thing to fail.. and as a campground host in the summer I have seen many that did not work on arrival at the campground and some were so jammed up they could not be put down manually.. here is what I recommend
http://www.ultra-fab.com/new_detail....gnum=48-979006

I use an 18volt drill to raise and lower. Best of both worlds.
BillMc

[Nighthawk 96]

I ordered my trailer with manual stabilizers. I have 4 pairs of 4x4" blocks, 6, 8 , 12 and 16" long that I use under them. I used to do the electric drill thing, but no longer.

Have read that the farther your jacks are extended the less stability they provide. Using the wood blocks under them allows very few turns to tighten, so I just use the provided crank handle.

Since the trailer sits on a spring suspension there is still some limited sway.

[3'senough]

I put a set of Husky stabilizers on my unit and they are far and above BAL that I had on the last unit. I agree with the stabilizers arms that connect to the base of the stabilizers for added movement removal. Your unit looks long in your sig like mine and you will get bounce in the middle until you put in the stabilizers to take out the suspension.

[Ustabslim]

I ordered these today, will mount in front of axles. I have 20 volt impact yo crank to crank up with. Drill a few holes, gonna use galvanzed bolts, done. Thanks
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-pack-30-50...ec17a1&vxp=mtr

[3'senough]

I was going to go with the 30" instead of 24", but they stick out past my sides too much when mounted to the frame. If you angle them it will limit the sticking out. I use a 6 x 6 under each of mine.

[Ustabslim]

Originally Posted by 3'senough

I was going to go with the 30" instead of 24", but they stick out past my sides too much when mounted to the frame. If you angle them it will limit the sticking out. I use a 6 x 6 under each of mine.

Good idea. I have to have the 30 inch. I thought that would work.

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by Texashighsheriff

I ordered these today, will mount in front of axles. I have 20 volt impact yo crank to crank up with. Drill a few holes, gonna use galvanzed bolts, done. Thanks
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-pack-30-50...ec17a1&vxp=mtr

Post up some pics if you can. I think this will happen to my trailer at some point...

[Ustabslim]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

Post up some pics if you can. I think this will happen to my trailer at some point...

No problem, I'm gonna be in hunting camp in Arkansas mountains until around the 25th month, then do install.

[wwsmith111]

I have Jayco Eagle 2014 338 rlts. It came with electric stabilizers front and rear. I just installed a PowerTwin II-30" Electric RV Leveling Stabilizer http://www.ultra-fab.com/new_detail....gnum=39-941705 just in front of the tires which is just slightly behind the center of gravity of the TT (towards the rear). It was a three day ordeal to do this, but now I can level and stabilize the trailer with a touch of a button. I first level it front to back with the electric tongue jack. Then I level it side to side with the PowerTwin II-30" Electric RV Leveling Stabilizer. Then I fine tune front to rear again and then run down the front and rear electric stabilizers that came with it. The unit is rock steady as there are six points now instead of four and no tire bounce. If I'm going to be somewhere for a while I sometime set the tongue down on a jack stand which has been set for proper level. This also seems to help. The PowerTwin II-30" Electric RV Leveling Stabilizer will not lift the tires off the ground, but it does lift enough to level the trailer. I don't suggest anyone try installing this unit unless you are very mechanically inclined. It requires some fabricating and welding plus moving quite a lot of stuff under the TT. One also needs to install the electric hookups etc. I put the electric switches that come with the unit inside the front storage compartment which is locked (secure) and out of the weather and hooked directly to the battery with fuses using #10 wire throughout. The PowerTwin II-30" Electric RV Leveling Stabilizer is a bear i.e. super heavy duty. The mounting brackets that attach to the frame are 35" wide.

[Ustabslim]

That's a lot of work. Glad it came together for you.

[Hitch Pin]

I think its hard to beat the Bal jacks and stabilizers, they are very well made, plus they are made in the USA.

http://www.norcoind.com/bal/index.shtml

[eldermike]

I went with manual on mine. I had the electrics on last trailer and made sure on my order that manual was all in CAP's and the electrics would be a deal breaker. They got it right.

[Ustabslim]

WwsmithIII?..that is an amazing amount of work you did. Congrats.
But for me...I'm into less work...so I think I will just purchase two more of the 30 inchers, 7500 pound capacity. Mount one forward and one rear of the axles. That's 15,000 pounds each side. Will take me about an hour. Then using my 20 volt impact I should be able to actually raise a side if needed and be really stable. and at a total cost of less than $200.00.