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Old 06-02-2016, 11:01 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by TWP723 View Post
But like you said, they must be obsolete.
No, the owner died and then the successors lost interest. They can still be found used..

VIP RV, the vehicle investment protection people
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Old 06-02-2016, 11:47 AM   #22
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On my 40 footer, I had quite a bit of bounce. Now I use 4 Camco olympic aluminum jack stands in addition to the 4 stands that are part of the trailer. That's a total of 8 plus the tongue jack. Bounce eliminated.
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Old 06-02-2016, 12:25 PM   #23
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I carry a couple of automotive jack stands and some shims. Once I have the TT in place I put the jack stands in front of the front tires and tap the shims in between the jack and frame until snug. Works pretty good. I will eventually buy a pair of the aluminum stands when I catch them on sale.
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Old 06-02-2016, 02:40 PM   #24
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I have found if you use blocks under your stabilizers and reduce the length you have to extend the stabilizers that it helps considerably with the bounce.

I also bought a set of these chocks which also help alot.

ONEstep™ Chock
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Old 06-02-2016, 05:00 PM   #25
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No wonder why the bounce, look under where the scissor jack are mounted.....a few self tapping screw over a very small surface is all you have to stabilize the trailer....
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Old 06-03-2016, 08:17 AM   #26
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No wonder why the bounce, look under where the scissor jack are mounted.....a few self tapping screw over a very small surface is all you have to stabilize the trailer....
It looks like a problem, but it really isn't.

The screws just exist to hold the jack to the trailer when its up. If you ever make a mistake and the trailer starts to roll with the jacks down (I've done it, took me 10 years to pull that one off) you will be glad they are not attached well.

Folks stabilize these trailers well using jacks like this:



And that contact area is tiny.

The real problem is that the scissor jacks are pretty stable in only one direction, along their length. Across the narrow side they flex a ton. The solutions are many. Add more jacks (not all oriented the same way), use small portable trip pod jacks, or use something like the jt strong arm or steady fast (or others).
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Old 06-03-2016, 08:51 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Paintinfool3 View Post
I didn't see mention of what size your trailer is ... mine is 39 foot and we had a lot of bounce in the middle even with x chocks .... suspension gives so I installed an extra set of scissor jacks in the middle right in front of axles with angle bars attatched to frame from them and it is now solid ... no bounce
Awesome idea! Is this just another set of JT StrongArms mounted to a new set of scissor jacks?

I can see this mod next for me, I have the JT's in front and back, but need to eliminate the suspension bounce and think this would really do it.

Andy
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Old 06-03-2016, 09:44 AM   #28
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Along with my x-chocks, I bought two of these and placed one in front of the axles on the entry side and the other on the opposite side behind the axles. Between the two solutions, it has almost completely eliminated the bounce for us.

http://www.amazon.com/Valterra-02010...ilpage_o06_s00
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Old 06-03-2016, 09:52 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by apr1967 View Post

Folks stabilize these trailers well using jacks like this:


Those are the ones I use. I put them up on blocks so as to minimize the screw extension, then I put a piece of pressure treated 2x4 between the jack and the frame.
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Old 06-03-2016, 10:10 AM   #30
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I am starting to get real confused over this bounce discussion. I have very little bounce, in fact it's quite stable with little, movement or shaking and what little I have is well within tolerance.

That said here is how I level up.

First my goal is to remove as little weight from the wheel and suspension group as possible.

I disconnect and insure my front stands are level with each other, then I nose up or down to achieve a positive attitude of +0.1 using a digital level. At this time I go to the rear where the stabilization jack are and let them down insuring they are level with each other. Then I raise them to just put enough lift to go 0.0.

My digital level now reads 0.0 +/- 0.1 lengthwise and laterally.

My approach distributes the weight across all 8 weight bearing points very equally. This makes for a very stable platform.

I level at my pin box and in both directions and I confirm at my rear bumper, centered on my tow box.
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