Storage door lock upgrade?

[ecksdude]

The locks on the storage doors are atrocious. I literally have to shove the key in with the palm of my hand once i get it positioned, and I have to shove HARD. All that just to get the key in the lock. Once it's in, it works fine, though.

Eventually I'm pretty sure the key will just break.

What is the solution for this? Are there upgraded locks I can buy? Or is there some way to fix the existing locks so the key can go in smoothly?

I can spray some oil/cleaner in there (like CLP) and see if that helps?

Anyone have the magic solution?

[ROC-REQS]

Try WD-40, spray it into the lock's key opening and then try sliding the key in and out a few times.
I've done this with success to make key insertion smoother.

[Flapper]

If it is the unit in your signature, I would first make a warranty claim!

[WVDusty]

Originally Posted by ROC-REQS

Try WD-40, spray it into the lock's key opening and then try sliding the key in and out a few times.
I've done this with success to make key insertion smoother.

X2 I have had good luck doing this also.

[robkelly]

Originally Posted by ROC-REQS

Try WD-40, spray it into the lock's key opening and then try sliding the key in and out a few times.
I've done this with success to make key insertion smoother.

X2 Did this the day I got our unit home as the locker were so stiff. Sprayed the latch mechanisms too and everything is working like a charm.

[mike837go]

Better than WD-40 in this situation.


A product called Lock-ease. Amazon.com: AGS LE5 Lock Ease: Automotive


It has a penetrant and leaves powdered graphite behind. Been using it since 1980.

[Hattie]

For all our storage lockers, we did the combo locks from Amazon - 2 different sizes (deeper one for outdoor kitchen). I love them, you don't need the keys AND you know someone else isn't helping themselves to your stuff by using the universal 751 key! Took DH less than 15 minutes per storage door to install. I know we did a post on this somewhere else in this forum, in the event you do a search. http://smile.amazon.com/Combi-Cam-78...QPGJHGJ12119NJ

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by Hattie

For all our storage lockers, we did the combo locks from Amazon - 2 different sizes (deeper one for outdoor kitchen). I love them, you don't need the keys AND you know someone else isn't helping themselves to your stuff by using the universal 751 key! Took DH less than 15 minutes per storage door to install. I know we did a post on this somewhere else in this forum, in the event you do a search. http://smile.amazon.com/Combi-Cam-78...QPGJHGJ12119NJ

I thought about those for my trailer too. But then I thought, what do I do in the dark? Better than half the time, I'm getting into those lockers in the dark, and there's no way I would be able to dial in a code. Sometimes I have a flashlight on me, but more often than not, I don't.

I agree the locks should be changed to get away from the standard key though.

I put a drop of 3-in-1 oil in all my locks when we first brought the trailer home more than 2 years ago, and haven't messed with them since.

[Crabman]

The latch arm can also be too tight and may need to be bent slightly if the key is turning real hard and lubricant dose not do the trick. This happened on one of mine and I actually rung off a key in the lock.

[DocBrown]

Originally Posted by mike837go

Better than WD-40 in this situation.


A product called Lock-ease. Amazon.com: AGS LE5 Lock Ease: Automotive


It has a penetrant and leaves powdered graphite behind. Been using it since 1980.

X2 on that recommendation. WD40 dries out after a short time. I've also used good old fashioned silicone spray inside locks.

[Parcany]

Changed out most all of our locks and even they were a little hard to work. The more you use them the easier they get.

[ecksdude]

Originally Posted by Flapper

If it is the unit in your signature, I would first make a warranty claim!

I seriously doubt I will be taking advantage of warranty over something this small, unless I'm already taking it in for something expensive.

I don't want my trailer spending months at the dealer, and so far, nothing has broken that cost me more than a few bucks and some spare time.

[ecksdude]

ok, based on all replies here, it will be oil first, upgrade only if that fails.

[dpi7800]

Ok so I saw some of the first responses and was surprised at how many people recommended WD-40, that is some seriously dated stuff. No offense intended to anyone. Me personally, I would go with a dry lube that is lithium based. It comes out as a liquid then dries within a minute and leaves a nice thin film that does not attract dirt like WD-40 will.

[ecksdude]

Well, I was thinking CLP, but that's just because I have a bunch handy.

I'll get out there in the morning and try it.

[Macman]

I too went to a locksmith to rekey the 751 locks, he told me any one with a large screwdriver could turn the lock even if I rekeyed. As far as the combo locks, a locking plier can easily turn the lock to open the hatch. Even a hasp and padlock device could be defeated as thin as the aluminum skin is on the cargo doors. Any one determined to get in, will.

[Crabman]

Originally Posted by Macman

I too went to a locksmith to rekey the 751 locks, he told me any one with a large screwdriver could turn the lock even if I rekeyed. As far as the combo locks, a locking plier can easily turn the lock to open the hatch. Even a hasp and padlock device could be defeated as thin as the aluminum skin is on the cargo doors. Any one determined to get in, will.

Its true these locks are only to deter the honest thieves. And anyone that has the bed over the front pass through compartment floorplan like I do, if you get in the compartment door you can simply raise up the bed and you are in the trailer.

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by ecksdude

Well, I was thinking CLP, but that's just because I have a bunch handy.

I'll get out there in the morning and try it.

I think CLP is a GREAT alternative.

Originally Posted by Macman

I too went to a locksmith to rekey the 751 locks, he told me any one with a large screwdriver could turn the lock even if I rekeyed. As far as the combo locks, a locking plier can easily turn the lock to open the hatch. Even a hasp and padlock device could be defeated as thin as the aluminum skin is on the cargo doors. Any one determined to get in, will.

This is one of the reasons I haven't gone to great lengths to replace my locks. I could put the baddest lock money could buy on there, it's still held in by a thin piece of aluminum in the back that is EASILY defeated.

Like Crabman said, these locks are there to keep the honest people honest, they will not stop even a somewhat determined thief. OTOH, a thief might move on to an "easier" target if you change them out. I don't have to be the fastest buffalo, I just don't want to be the slowest. So changing them out is still on my list, it's just down there a ways.

[Hattie]

As noted, any lock is vulnerable, the purpose is to deter or slow-down the theft. There are 'high risk' situations over which you have some degree of control - and consider insurance that covers losses/damages:
1) Storage yard ~ you make the choice here on location and how to best secure all belongings (rig locks, propane, batteries, etc.) and the best spot within the yard
2) Publically parked while in transit (during dining or sightseeing) ~ avoid out-of-the-way parking or high-crime areas
3) Campground ~ a State Park Ranger shared that most campground thefts are quick by walkers or persons driving through the loops and the most vulnerable is what is in sight (generators, bikes) or what is unlocked (rig's doors or storage areas) - so lock everything down and make sure you have 'marked' them to prove ownership

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by Hattie

As noted, any lock is vulnerable, the purpose is to deter or slow-down the theft. There are 'high risk' situations over which you have some degree of control - and consider insurance that covers losses/damages:
1) Storage yard ~ you make the choice here on location and how to best secure all belongings (rig locks, propane, batteries, etc.) and the best spot within the yard
2) Publically parked while in transit (during dining or sightseeing) ~ avoid out-of-the-way parking or high-crime areas
3) Campground ~ a State Park Ranger shared that most campground thefts are quick by walkers or persons driving through the loops and the most vulnerable is what is in sight (generators, bikes) or what is unlocked (rig's doors or storage areas) - so lock everything down and make sure you have 'marked' them to prove ownership

GREAT advice IMO.