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Old 01-15-2014, 10:05 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Larry G. View Post
Agree 100% with Seann.

We have the Progressive Industries Portable 50 AMP Electrical Management System.

Attachment 10960
I'd buy the 30 AMP model in a second, but I'm just so afraid somebody is going to walk off with it. The hardwired one solves that problem, however if there is ever a problem with the unit itself I'm sorta hosed. Plus I'm not sure Jayco would honor the 2 year warranty if I'm playing w/ the electrical system and cutting wires.
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Old 01-15-2014, 12:20 PM   #12
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I'd buy the 30 AMP model in a second, but I'm just so afraid somebody is going to walk off with it. The hardwired one solves that problem, however if there is ever a problem with the unit itself I'm sorta hosed. Plus I'm not sure Jayco would honor the 2 year warranty if I'm playing w/ the electrical system and cutting wires.
There should be no need to cut any wires to install the hard wired version of the Progressive Industries product. On our WhiteHawk, I simply opened the junction box that contains the 30 amp cord to trailer 110v. connection, disconnected the cord, reconnected the cord to the line side of the EMS, and bought 3' length of 12 ga. 3 wire solid copper house wiring from Lowes and connected one end to the load side of the EMS and the other to the house wiring connection in the junction box. Neat, clean, & easy, and everything fit inside that 'end table'/30 amp cord storage dog house in the rear of the trailer between the rocking chairs. Granted, installation may vary by trailer model, but it shouldn't require a massive modification of anything.

PS: At least with the Progressive EMS product (don't know about their surge suppressor) if ANYTHING ever goes wrong, you can send the unit to Progressive Industries and it will be repaired at no charge.
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Old 01-15-2014, 12:47 PM   #13
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There should be no need to cut any wires to install the hard wired version of the Progressive Industries product. On our WhiteHawk, I simply opened the junction box that contains the 30 amp cord to trailer 110v. connection, disconnected the cord, reconnected the cord to the line side of the EMS, and bought 3' length of 12 ga. 3 wire solid copper house wiring from Lowes and connected one end to the load side of the EMS and the other to the house wiring connection in the junction box. Neat, clean, & easy, and everything fit inside that 'end table'/30 amp cord storage dog house in the rear of the trailer between the rocking chairs. Granted, installation may vary by trailer model, but it shouldn't require a massive modification of anything.

PS: At least with the Progressive EMS product (don't know about their surge suppressor) if ANYTHING ever goes wrong, you can send the unit to Progressive Industries and it will be repaired at no charge.
When my trailer comes in I'll have to see if access to the shore cord/junction area is easy to get to. That would certainly take care of the install part.

What happens if the unit fails? Its hardwired into your trailer so if the unit fails you're pretty much done unless you have the tools to take the whole thing apart again right?
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Old 01-15-2014, 01:39 PM   #14
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Lots of helpful posts. I am afraid to hardwire the surge protector. I will keep an eye out on sales. Money isn't falling off of trees here....
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Old 01-15-2014, 02:36 PM   #15
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When my trailer comes in I'll have to see if access to the shore cord/junction area is easy to get to. That would certainly take care of the install part.

What happens if the unit fails? Its hardwired into your trailer so if the unit fails you're pretty much done unless you have the tools to take the whole thing apart again right?
The EMS is part computer, part surge suppressor. If there was a problem with the microprocessor circuit that stops the flow of electricity when a fault such as an open ground or other condition is detected, each unit comes with a jumper wire and instructions to install it that will allow the unit to continue to function as a surge suppressor. You would only lose the electrical fault detection features. If it did take a 'fatal' power surge, it displays an 'E10' fault code which means the electronics inside gave their lives for a surge and the unit needs service. You would still have power, but no surge protection in this circumstance. The only tools needed to install or remove the unit or remove the cover from it are screwdrivers (small phillips head to remove the EMS cover, larger to tighten electrical cable connection terminals in the EMS) and maybe electrician's pliers. This is a really good product and no, I don't work for Progressive Industries. Our first RV (used fifth wheel) had the 50 amp version of the EMS in it, and it saved the trailer's electrical 'bacon' on two occasions and made me a believer.
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Old 01-15-2014, 02:37 PM   #16
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snip......... so if the unit fails you're pretty much done unless you have the tools to take the whole thing apart again right?
No, all you need is a screw driver to remove the cover on the EMS, and there is an "enclosed blue jumper wire allows the user to bypass the computer circuit in the EMS in the event of computer failure, thus allowing AC power into the RV".

It's my understanding that in the event of a circuit board failure you don't have to send the entire EMS unit back to Progressive, just send the circuit board.

Pretty simple.

Bob

On Edit: Appears 'thomasmnile' and I were on the same page at the same time. My Progressive EMS worked great last year protecting my TT when we had a lighting strike in the CG...., 7 out 12 RV's incurred electric damage.
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Old 01-15-2014, 02:48 PM   #17
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Great. I just so happens I also have a electrician neighbor who owes me a favor. So if I can get access to the area where the junction is I'm in business. Thanks all.
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Old 01-15-2014, 03:21 PM   #18
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We have been caught in summer lightning storms where all the power went down repeatedly. Our surge protector always pops when that happens. I can only imagine what it would do to our electrical stuff if we didn't have one.
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Old 01-15-2014, 03:33 PM   #19
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Last year when we arrived at the cg, I went to pull my 30amp cord out of the hole to hook it up. It came out about 2 feet and stopped dead. I pulled, tugged and twisted. It wouldn't come out any further. I went inside to try and gain access to the area where the cord is stored. I was unable to locate any way of gaining access! Finally found a young boy with small hands and we were able to get it untangled. I'm not sure if this is the same area where a hardwired protector would go, but in my case I went with an exterior protector.
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Old 01-15-2014, 07:13 PM   #20
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Last year when we arrived at the cg, I went to pull my 30amp cord out of the hole to hook it up. It came out about 2 feet and stopped dead. I pulled, tugged and twisted. It wouldn't come out any further. I went inside to try and gain access to the area where the cord is stored. I was unable to locate any way of gaining access! Finally found a young boy with small hands and we were able to get it untangled. I'm not sure if this is the same area where a hardwired protector would go, but in my case I went with an exterior protector.
Our WhiteHawk is a 'rear living' floorplan. The 'dog house' (my term) for the 30 amp cord storage also doubles as an end table between the rocking chairs at the rear of the trailer. If your unit is similarly built, you can access the power cord from the inside by removing the front panel of the dog house. On the WhiteHawk it's held in place by 3 screws. It would sure be easier than sticking anyone's hand through the exterior 'mouse hole'!
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