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01-14-2014, 07:36 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 66
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Surge protector
Just wondering if anyone here uses a surge protector when they are using land power.
There are a ton of models and prices out there and was wondering if I should get one.
Are the simple models under $100.00 sufficient or do I need to spend more to get proper protection?
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01-14-2014, 07:51 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Reno (home base) Winter Eloy, AZ
Posts: 988
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We do, yes.
More good discussion in the Forums here.
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2012 Pinnacle 36KPTS - Kitchen Pantry Triple Slide
Mor/Ryde suspension and pin box, Dual pane windows, Auto Leveling System, 2 A/C's, Sailun G's and more...
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01-14-2014, 07:58 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 1,448
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I use a 30amp Surge guard. Can normally pick them up for about $250. We have encountered mis-wired pedestals and bad grounds. The great thing with the surge guard is that it monitors the power for 2 minutes before supplying power to the coach. If voltage drops, the unit will not return power to the camper for two minutes, ensuring the power is stable and the surge of everyone else's campers restarting doesn't hit yours. Are there cheaper units, yes, would they protect, maybe, however after reading reviews I felt this was our best option.
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2013 Jayco JayFlight 26RKS
2013 Ford F150 Ecoboost FX4
2003 Coleman Bayside / 2011 Jayco Jayfeather X20E -- RIP
2012 Tacoma Sport DCSB / 2013 Tundra SR5 - RIP
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01-14-2014, 08:41 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Arizona City
Posts: 10,166
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We have 2, one for our Jayco 33rlds and one for our Bungalow 40 FER. don't leave home without it.
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2018 Jayco Jayfeather 27 RL, 2002 Ford excursion, v-10, 3:73 gears 4x4 mine. 2020 Buick Encore Hers, Retired Air Force, now Retired.
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01-14-2014, 09:36 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 550
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I would not leave home with out mine. I am wondering if they work well with generators
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01-14-2014, 09:49 PM
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#6
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Michigan
Posts: 9,424
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slabat
snip.... I am wondering if they work well with generators
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My EMS is hardwired inside my TT and works fine with my genny.
Bob
__________________
2016 GM 2500HD 6.0L/4.10
2018 Jay Flight 24RBS
2002 GM 2500HD 6.0L/4:10 (retired)
2005 Jayco Eagle 278FBS (retired)
1999 Jayco Eagle 246FB (retired)
Reese HP Dual Cam (Strait-Line)
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01-15-2014, 04:50 AM
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#7
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: James Island, SC
Posts: 22,858
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I use a 50a Surgeguard. With adapters, I can use it on 30a service. It gives me peace of mind, even though I have camed for many year without it.
They are in the 2-3 hundred range. Price around for sales.
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Moderator
2011- 351RLTS Eagle, MorRyde suspension/pin box,
2017- F350 6.7 PSD Lariat FX4,SRW, SB,CC
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Can't find what you're looking on JOF? Try Jayco Owners Forum Custom Google Search
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01-15-2014, 07:56 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Saskatoon Sask Canada
Posts: 10,726
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The under $100.00 ones are a waste of money.. get a real one.. This is the very minimum you should have.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...y-30-amp/58464
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Seann
2004 Chev Silverado Duramax optioned past the max. 2009 Jayco Eagle 308 RLS 900watts of solar, Lithium batteries (400amp hour), 2000 watt (4000 surge) whole house inverter.
145days /2023 2022/151 2021[/COLOR]
93/2020,157/2019219/2018 206/2017,215/2016, 211/2015, 196/14, 247/13, 193/12
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01-15-2014, 08:09 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Lake Mary
Posts: 298
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I have a 30 amp. Progressive Industries EMS (hard wired) with remote display in our WhiteHawk. Installed it myself, works great. Worth the $219 I spent on it. It is a 'whole house' surge suppressor, but will also detect 8 or 9 different power faults and shut down incoming power to the trailer.
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01-15-2014, 09:20 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Reno (home base) Winter Eloy, AZ
Posts: 988
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seann45
The under $100.00 ones are a waste of money.. get a real one.. This is the very minimum you should have.
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Agree 100% with Seann.
We have the Progressive Industries Portable 50 AMP Electrical Management System.
__________________
2012 Pinnacle 36KPTS - Kitchen Pantry Triple Slide
Mor/Ryde suspension and pin box, Dual pane windows, Auto Leveling System, 2 A/C's, Sailun G's and more...
View photos
Our Trip Journal
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01-15-2014, 10:05 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Jersey
Posts: 296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry G.
Agree 100% with Seann.
We have the Progressive Industries Portable 50 AMP Electrical Management System.
Attachment 10960
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I'd buy the 30 AMP model in a second, but I'm just so afraid somebody is going to walk off with it. The hardwired one solves that problem, however if there is ever a problem with the unit itself I'm sorta hosed. Plus I'm not sure Jayco would honor the 2 year warranty if I'm playing w/ the electrical system and cutting wires.
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01-15-2014, 12:20 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Lake Mary
Posts: 298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s1njin
I'd buy the 30 AMP model in a second, but I'm just so afraid somebody is going to walk off with it. The hardwired one solves that problem, however if there is ever a problem with the unit itself I'm sorta hosed. Plus I'm not sure Jayco would honor the 2 year warranty if I'm playing w/ the electrical system and cutting wires.
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There should be no need to cut any wires to install the hard wired version of the Progressive Industries product. On our WhiteHawk, I simply opened the junction box that contains the 30 amp cord to trailer 110v. connection, disconnected the cord, reconnected the cord to the line side of the EMS, and bought 3' length of 12 ga. 3 wire solid copper house wiring from Lowes and connected one end to the load side of the EMS and the other to the house wiring connection in the junction box. Neat, clean, & easy, and everything fit inside that 'end table'/30 amp cord storage dog house in the rear of the trailer between the rocking chairs. Granted, installation may vary by trailer model, but it shouldn't require a massive modification of anything.
PS: At least with the Progressive EMS product (don't know about their surge suppressor) if ANYTHING ever goes wrong, you can send the unit to Progressive Industries and it will be repaired at no charge.
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01-15-2014, 12:47 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Jersey
Posts: 296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thomasmnile
There should be no need to cut any wires to install the hard wired version of the Progressive Industries product. On our WhiteHawk, I simply opened the junction box that contains the 30 amp cord to trailer 110v. connection, disconnected the cord, reconnected the cord to the line side of the EMS, and bought 3' length of 12 ga. 3 wire solid copper house wiring from Lowes and connected one end to the load side of the EMS and the other to the house wiring connection in the junction box. Neat, clean, & easy, and everything fit inside that 'end table'/30 amp cord storage dog house in the rear of the trailer between the rocking chairs. Granted, installation may vary by trailer model, but it shouldn't require a massive modification of anything.
PS: At least with the Progressive EMS product (don't know about their surge suppressor) if ANYTHING ever goes wrong, you can send the unit to Progressive Industries and it will be repaired at no charge.
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When my trailer comes in I'll have to see if access to the shore cord/junction area is easy to get to. That would certainly take care of the install part.
What happens if the unit fails? Its hardwired into your trailer so if the unit fails you're pretty much done unless you have the tools to take the whole thing apart again right?
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01-15-2014, 01:39 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 66
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Lots of helpful posts. I am afraid to hardwire the surge protector. I will keep an eye out on sales. Money isn't falling off of trees here....
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01-15-2014, 02:36 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Lake Mary
Posts: 298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s1njin
When my trailer comes in I'll have to see if access to the shore cord/junction area is easy to get to. That would certainly take care of the install part.
What happens if the unit fails? Its hardwired into your trailer so if the unit fails you're pretty much done unless you have the tools to take the whole thing apart again right?
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The EMS is part computer, part surge suppressor. If there was a problem with the microprocessor circuit that stops the flow of electricity when a fault such as an open ground or other condition is detected, each unit comes with a jumper wire and instructions to install it that will allow the unit to continue to function as a surge suppressor. You would only lose the electrical fault detection features. If it did take a 'fatal' power surge, it displays an 'E10' fault code which means the electronics inside gave their lives for a surge and the unit needs service. You would still have power, but no surge protection in this circumstance. The only tools needed to install or remove the unit or remove the cover from it are screwdrivers (small phillips head to remove the EMS cover, larger to tighten electrical cable connection terminals in the EMS) and maybe electrician's pliers. This is a really good product and no, I don't work for Progressive Industries. Our first RV (used fifth wheel) had the 50 amp version of the EMS in it, and it saved the trailer's electrical 'bacon' on two occasions and made me a believer.
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01-15-2014, 02:37 PM
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#16
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Michigan
Posts: 9,424
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s1njin
snip......... so if the unit fails you're pretty much done unless you have the tools to take the whole thing apart again right?
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No, all you need is a screw driver to remove the cover on the EMS, and there is an "enclosed blue jumper wire allows the user to bypass the computer circuit in the EMS in the event of computer failure, thus allowing AC power into the RV".
It's my understanding that in the event of a circuit board failure you don't have to send the entire EMS unit back to Progressive, just send the circuit board.
Pretty simple.
Bob
On Edit: Appears 'thomasmnile' and I were on the same page at the same time. My Progressive EMS worked great last year protecting my TT when we had a lighting strike in the CG...., 7 out 12 RV's incurred electric damage.
__________________
2016 GM 2500HD 6.0L/4.10
2018 Jay Flight 24RBS
2002 GM 2500HD 6.0L/4:10 (retired)
2005 Jayco Eagle 278FBS (retired)
1999 Jayco Eagle 246FB (retired)
Reese HP Dual Cam (Strait-Line)
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01-15-2014, 02:48 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Jersey
Posts: 296
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Great. I just so happens I also have a electrician neighbor who owes me a favor. So if I can get access to the area where the junction is I'm in business. Thanks all.
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01-15-2014, 03:21 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Manitoba Canada
Posts: 553
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We have been caught in summer lightning storms where all the power went down repeatedly. Our surge protector always pops when that happens. I can only imagine what it would do to our electrical stuff if we didn't have one.
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01-15-2014, 03:33 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Greenville SC
Posts: 843
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Last year when we arrived at the cg, I went to pull my 30amp cord out of the hole to hook it up. It came out about 2 feet and stopped dead. I pulled, tugged and twisted. It wouldn't come out any further. I went inside to try and gain access to the area where the cord is stored. I was unable to locate any way of gaining access! Finally found a young boy with small hands and we were able to get it untangled. I'm not sure if this is the same area where a hardwired protector would go, but in my case I went with an exterior protector.
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01-15-2014, 07:13 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Lake Mary
Posts: 298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krackeer
Last year when we arrived at the cg, I went to pull my 30amp cord out of the hole to hook it up. It came out about 2 feet and stopped dead. I pulled, tugged and twisted. It wouldn't come out any further. I went inside to try and gain access to the area where the cord is stored. I was unable to locate any way of gaining access! Finally found a young boy with small hands and we were able to get it untangled. I'm not sure if this is the same area where a hardwired protector would go, but in my case I went with an exterior protector.
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Our WhiteHawk is a 'rear living' floorplan. The 'dog house' (my term) for the 30 amp cord storage also doubles as an end table between the rocking chairs at the rear of the trailer. If your unit is similarly built, you can access the power cord from the inside by removing the front panel of the dog house. On the WhiteHawk it's held in place by 3 screws. It would sure be easier than sticking anyone's hand through the exterior 'mouse hole'!
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