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Old 08-06-2020, 11:22 AM   #1
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Switching from 1500 to 2500... Sway control hitch

I have a Equal-i-zer hitch sway control that was set up to my 287BHEBE and the 1500. I now have a Chevrolet 2500 Diesel and should I haul it to a RV shop and have it set up with new truck ?
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Old 08-06-2020, 11:41 AM   #2
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You should get it setup. If you are handy and have a few very large wrenches, you can do it by following the manual. But it is easier to pay the dealer to do it.
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Old 08-06-2020, 12:35 PM   #3
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Jagiven thank you
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Old 08-06-2020, 01:04 PM   #4
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That's assuming the dealer will do it right. There are PLENTY of stories out there about how the dealer botched the install for a new TT customer (I'm one of them).

I would read the instructions on the hitch install and take before/after measurements and inspect the installation closely before you leave the lot.

I'm lucky that I'm handy and had most of the tools necessary for the installation, because I had to basically re-do the entire thing.

ETA: IIRC, the only "specialized" tool you'd need is for the hitch ball itself. Everything else can be handled with a decent set of 1/2" drive sockets and a set of wrenches.
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Old 08-06-2020, 01:43 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Camper_bob View Post
That's assuming the dealer will do it right. There are PLENTY of stories out there about how the dealer botched the install for a new TT customer (I'm one of them).

I would read the instructions on the hitch install and take before/after measurements and inspect the installation closely before you leave the lot.

I'm lucky that I'm handy and had most of the tools necessary for the installation, because I had to basically re-do the entire thing.

ETA: IIRC, the only "specialized" tool you'd need is for the hitch ball itself. Everything else can be handled with a decent set of 1/2" drive sockets and a set of wrenches.
What I have seen, when dealers set up WDHs "incorrectly". Truly they are not incorrect, but they are setup for when the TT and TV are empty, and have no cargo. As soon as cargo is added, the hitch is all wrong. I was very impressed with our last purchase. I went through took all the measurements verified all his work. Questioned the front measurements. His reply, we have tried to anticipate how the rig will sit when loaded with cargo. Within a couple trips and adding cargo, the measurements were spot on. They planned ahead and did a good job guessing were our TV would be sitting once loaded up.
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Old 08-06-2020, 01:53 PM   #6
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I’d download the instructions and do it yourself. It’s not hard. Plus, if it’s not right you’ll feel more comfortable making adjustments down the road.

When I made the switch from a Tundra to a Chevy 2500 with our travel trailer, the biggest thing was dropping the level of the hitch. I think I had to flip it if that makes sense. Again, not hard work. Do it yourself if you’ve got the basic tools and physical ability. If you don’t have the wrenches you need, buy some. Never know when you’ll want to make an adjustment mid trip.

Now that you’ve got a 2500, don’t forget to pin or remove the receiver hitch adapter when unhooked. I’ve done it. Thankfully didn’t damage any other vehicles....as far as I know.
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Old 08-06-2020, 02:01 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Camper_bob View Post
That's assuming the dealer will do it right. There are PLENTY of stories out there about how the dealer botched the install for a new TT customer (I'm one of them).

I would read the instructions on the hitch install and take before/after measurements and inspect the installation closely before you leave the lot.

I'm lucky that I'm handy and had most of the tools necessary for the installation, because I had to basically re-do the entire thing.

ETA: IIRC, the only "specialized" tool you'd need is for the hitch ball itself. Everything else can be handled with a decent set of 1/2" drive sockets and a set of wrenches.
This was my experience as well. With the Blue Ox for the ORV it required 450 ft-lbs on the hitch ball so I just took it to a local Torq-Lift shop that I trust and had them install the hitch ball, which they did for no-charge. Everything else I was easily able to do with tools I carry in the pass-through storage.
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Old 08-06-2020, 02:06 PM   #8
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Since my father had a setup done and forgot the cotter pin on the hitch pin and my setup not having ANY of the bolts/nuts fastened, I do my own work. I always have but I trusted the dealer to have this done right the first time... Never again, or if I have to, going to make dang sure I watch them 100%...
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Old 08-06-2020, 02:39 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Neo1130 View Post
Since my father had a setup done and forgot the cotter pin on the hitch pin and my setup not having ANY of the bolts/nuts fastened, I do my own work. I always have but I trusted the dealer to have this done right the first time... Never again, or if I have to, going to make dang sure I watch them 100%...
I even questioned the technician about an aspect of my install they screwed up. They had the driver side WDH hanger reversed from the passenger side. With a completely straight face, the tech stood there and "explained" to me that was a correct installation because "the slide side of the trailer is heavier, so this side needs to be tighter". No kidding, that is a direct quote from the technician I trusted to install this critical component on my rig.

I looked at him like he had green horns sticking out the side of his head, shook my head, took the rig home and set it up properly, per the instructions (that they didn't bother to include BTW).

So, I'm with you. NO WAY I will ever let that happen again. If I'm physically unable to do it, I will hope that I have a friend or relative that IS able to do it WITH my consultation and by the provided instructions.

I understand that there is no easy way for them to set the hitch up properly with an unloaded trailer, but my install was just straight up wrong, regardless of how the trailer was loaded. IMO, if a shop is going to set up a hitch on an unloaded rig, they should explain to the customer how to make any post-load adjustments OR offer to have the customer bring the loaded rig back for an adjustment.
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Old 08-06-2020, 02:41 PM   #10
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I moved mine from a 1500 to a 3500.. it was pretty simple... I just got out my big boy socket set and a cheater bar to get the extra 1/4 turn after 200lb/ft
I dropped and tipped the head back, leveled the trailer and was on my way
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Old 08-06-2020, 03:06 PM   #11
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Here's a nice video from Etrailer on setting up an Equalizer. They have videos for all the hitches they sell. I have the baby brother to the E4, Fastway E2. The videos were very helpful.

https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-...0-00-1200.aspx
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Old 08-09-2020, 04:51 PM   #12
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Trailer shop did mine, it sat level at the shop. But then I added a few things and it sagged.
I made the adjustments required at home, with all my regular gear the morning of. Technically this is what you are supposed to do after each departure. To adjust mine after the hitch heights are all setup, is removed and move the 3/4 bolt a notch of two depending on how much i added in the trunk & trailer. The ride is completely different when it's setup perfectly. Today I took the trailer to the dealer without adjusting it and wow it sucked. But I was only going 10 minutes down the road.
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Old 08-15-2020, 05:14 PM   #13
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Picked our brand new jayco eagle 334rlok up. Arranged with salesman for a 16000 equalizer. Got there. Backed 2500 ram up and went back inside. Came back out they were putting on a 14000 equalizer. Hitch weight per docs is 1450. Hitch is to small right off the bat. Not going home so paid 900 for a hitch to small for the trailer we just bought.

So mad, but we saved 7000 vs other dealers for tt. Told them to hook us up and going home.

Got home with no issues. Looked close. Dealer put a 10000 pound ball on a 14000 hitch with a spacer. Seriously are you kidding me.

Dropped trailer off in pole barn. Ordered 16000 equalizer. Shows up monday with a 16000 ball.



If you are camping and own a travel trailer. You will always fix something better than a dealer. Period.

We bought a jayco eagle 334rlok. Best of the worst as I told dealer. Throwing good money after bad. My wife loves to camp with the dogs so I am stuck.

Me I would stay at the Hampton inn in myrtle beach. She likes either pirateland or ocean lakes.

So we have a tt that I go over with a fine tooth comb every time it leaves the drive. Screws are gone. Seams are open. I recalk. I rescrew. Make sure nothing is loose. This is on a 2021 model.
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Old 08-16-2020, 07:52 AM   #14
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The OP never stated he couldn’t do it himself.
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Old 08-16-2020, 12:15 PM   #15
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Wsw...def capable of doing myself just looking for advice suggestions etc...Yes my wife loves to camp and with the dogs..She started in the 60's with her family in a station wagon and a tent..
Apparently Wsw edited his first reply...All good
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Old 08-26-2020, 12:29 PM   #16
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Sway control hitch

I went from F150 to F-250 4X4. I had to buy a longer shank because the truck was higher off the ground. My hitch was a Equalizer 4 point sway control. I had the tools and the original instruction manual. Need to be on level surface to set it up. I didn't think it was hard. Lots of videos online.
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Old 08-26-2020, 12:36 PM   #17
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I agree about shoddy dealer work. I called Equalizer; they were awesome! I got it done with their tech staff, and a few guys in JOF were super, too. The Jayco dealer totally buggered mine. The more you know and the more you can do, the better. After that it's pretty much a "crap shoot."
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Old 08-26-2020, 10:11 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TxLoser View Post

Now that you’ve got a 2500, don’t forget to pin or remove the receiver hitch adapter when unhooked. I’ve done it. Thankfully didn’t damage any other vehicles....as far as I know.
Read you owners manual ref towing if you changed from a 2" to a 2 1/2" receiver.
When I got my 3/4 ton and the receiver changed from 2" to 2 1/2", I read the owner's manual (not exactly the norm for me!).
Manual said when towing heavy trailer (typical self-contained is heavy), to not use the bushing/adapter that changes the 2 1/2 to 2". Some kind of safety issue. So, I only use it for my utility trailer or boat.

Went to etrailer and replaced the shank with a 2 1/2". No adapter needed now.
They also had a replacement part for the rock flaps to 2 1/2".
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Old 08-27-2020, 11:55 AM   #19
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The biggest issue I ran into when switching from a 1/2 ton to a 3/4 ton seemed to be with the shank. My F-250 has the 2.5" receiver and the old truck had a 2". I didn't want to use a sleeve adapter on a WDH so I bought the 2-1/2" shank. Also, the F-250 sat higher so I had to get a shank with more drop.
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Old 08-28-2020, 08:43 AM   #20
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Just me, but if you can't install the hitch correctly yourself, you going to be out a bunch of money getting things done a RV always needs. If someone else can do it so can I. I would never have the things I do or do all the activities I take part in if I had to run get someone else to fix stuff.
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