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Old 06-02-2012, 09:38 AM   #1
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Tank Sprayer Vacuum Breaker

Hell All -

New here! We just bought a 2011 330 RLTS. Had an issue with the black tank sprayer leaking and it appears to be the plastic vacuum breaker in the line above the tank. I looked on-line and saw a new one is $45 for the plastic one. Do I really need this? Is there a better one I could use as a replacement?

Thanks -
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Old 06-02-2012, 03:12 PM   #2
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Don't believe everything you read on the internet! LOL I would do some more analyzing first. Are the connections good? Does your rig still have a warranty?
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Old 06-02-2012, 03:16 PM   #3
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Don't believe everything you read on the internet! LOL I would do some more analyzing first. Are the connections good? Does your rig still have a warranty?
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Old 06-02-2012, 05:16 PM   #4
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No warranty. Just curious if there was a better alternative to the plastic one.....then again, most of the remaining components are plastic as well.

norty1 - Do you know of a better deal?
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Old 06-02-2012, 07:45 PM   #5
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No, never had one go bad.
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Old 06-02-2012, 08:37 PM   #6
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I have the same problem on a 2004 Designer 5er - the vac breaker for the tank No-Fuss Flusher is on a line directly above the driver side basement door, and located under the bathroom sink. Twice when I connected a hose to the outside fitting, got a water leak right down the pipe to the basement. Have now confirmed that the water is coming from the vac breaker. According to Jayco, the breaker cannot be repaired, and I need a new one. Trouble is, they recommend getting a new one from a Jayco dealer, but so far have not furnished me with a part number. The breaker is plastic, but no dealer so far (I've checked several) has been able to come up with the replacement. Both Grainger and McMaster-Carr catalogs list a similar vac breaker (but metal, not plastic), but not sure if the RV one is different from the regular one. Have queried Jayco if a generic breaker is OK to use, but have not heard back from them yet. BTW, my vac breaker has a vertical input, and horizontal output, with a cap on top. Most of the units I have found from RV suppliers are straight inline, not 90 degree ones like mine. Jtrober, your newer unit probably uses the straight line version, and yes, you definitely need a vac breaker of some kind, as its job is to prevent backflow from your tank to the water source through your hose. Without it, reverse pressure when you shut off the water could contaminate both your hose and the campground spigot. That is why the manufacturer suggests disconnecting the hose from the spigot before disconnecting from the trailer, to avoid getting sprayed with the normal brief water back pressure.

Anyone out there know where we can get these 90 degree vac breakers for the older units ?
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Old 06-02-2012, 09:59 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jtrober View Post
Hell All -

New here! We just bought a 2011 330 RLTS. Had an issue with the black tank sprayer leaking and it appears to be the plastic vacuum breaker in the line above the tank. I looked on-line and saw a new one is $45 for the plastic one. Do I really need this? Is there a better one I could use as a replacement?

Thanks -
On our 2011 330rlts the black tank sprayer leaked at the fitting where it enters the black tank. Put teflon tape on the threads of the fitting and that took care of the problem.
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Old 06-03-2012, 05:01 AM   #8
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tinlizzie23 - We also have the breaker with the 90 degree configuration. It is a B&B model 571. I found one here:

http://pdxrv.com/catalog/i29.html

Bounder - Thanks for the input, I did check the line down to the tank and it seemed ok. I had my wife slowly put the water to the sprayer as I was under the camper and all of the water ended up in the bathroom leaking from the vacuum breaker.
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Old 06-03-2012, 08:22 AM   #9
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See if this works and saves you a few bucks:

http://tweetys.com/checkvalve12mptx12fpt.aspx
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Old 06-03-2012, 07:33 PM   #10
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Jtrober - thanks for the tip on the B & B 571. Checked it out, but the fittings are backwards from mine - my male threads are on the vertical, and female on the horizontal. This one looks like the male threads are on the horizontal. If I use it, that would put the cap on the side instead of the top. Wonder if that would make a difference in the function ? If so, guess I would have to change the pipes and fittings to make the 571 work . . . .
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