Thinking of getting first TT, need advice between 2 Jayco's

[sennister]

Originally Posted by spamcan

Even more great info. Factory towing is either 8,300 or 10,300 (Tundra Double Cab Shortbed 4WD 5.7L V-8). Being it's setup for the factory towing package, according to the owners manual that's defacto 10,300lbs, 1,990lbs capacity. There is a sticker on the door frame saying -350lbs due to the spray-in bedliner. Add the 400-500 lbs for us and the dog, then gear (car seats, etc), then bed cap at @ 100lbs. Already down to @9000lbs of leftover capacity. Yea, good points, and even if I pushed the limits with the 28...I'd be uncomfortable being my first "owned" learning how to maneuver and tow a bigger rig. Looks like the 267 (as of now) is the way to go. Though ccso2213, I was unaware of the 287, I like it! We like that floorplan much more and it's only 500lbs more than the 267 fully loaded. Time to look at them closer.

I'm still trying to find info on hitch and rear axle capacity.

As for buying used, we're open to it. Just we've heard from family whom have owned TT's for years that have had bad experiences with worn out TT's. Of course that's relative to many aspects: quality of MFG, whom owned it and how well it was kept up, and the new buyers perspective. What would be the big things to look for when buying used? Creaky floors, drawers not closing right, etc?

Good start but your math isn't on the right number.

So by my math you have 950# for the bed liner, cap, people, car seats and dog. Your cargo capacity is 1990#

That leaves 1040#. Now take another 100 off for the WD hitch. It might not weigh that much but easier math.

So you can have a tongue weight of around 940#

If your camper GVWR (max loaded weight of the 267) and have 15% TW. That comes to 1050# and you are over by 110#. Your only option is to start shifting stuff out of that front pass through storage bin and put anything that has any weight under that rear bunk and shoot for 13% TW and you can get it down to 910# and just in the limits.

This is what we were saying in that whatever the manufacturer says your towing capability is pretty much forget that number. I have yet to see a truck that can pull anywhere near that much when you look at real numbers. In your case it is claimed to be 10,300# but in actuality if and only if you play the balance game you can sneak it up to 7,000# that is a difference of 3,300# which is huge when talking realistic and safe loads. I don't know if they do this as a marketing gimick or what but these numbers I keep seeing are always totally unrealistic so why don't they just come out and say you can tow 50,000#? But then still have the same cargo limits.

You can look into the axle and hitch ratings but you will probably be fine. Your cargo number already has you handicapped to 1000# or probably a little less than that. Pretty much any Class III hitch on a full size truck is going to be rated for 600# on Class III (which is the max rating for a Class III) and on the Class IV it will be in the 1000# range or maybe a little more (some are 1200) but at this point it doesn't matter unless you got rid of the cap and bed liner. That is about the only weight you can shed to gain more cargo capacity. Unless the DW and kids drive in a separate vehicle with the dog.

[spamcan]

Originally Posted by oldmanAZ

Do you have a sticker on the door frame with your Tundra's PAYLOAD? Is the '1,990lbs' you posted above the vehicle PAYLOAD from the sticker on your doorframe?

You've got the right idea doing the math. BUT, you subtract the trailer tongue weight, bedliner, people, carseat, dog, and gear in the truck bed from the PAYLOAD, not the towing capacity.

Yes, that was from the sticker on the doorframe. OK, now I know where to point to for the weight. Oops, NOOB here! Hence why I'm happy to be getting this info!

[sennister]

Originally Posted by spamcan

Yes, that was from the sticker on the doorframe. OK, now I know where to point to for the weight. Oops, NOOB here! Hence why I'm happy to be getting this info!

I forgot to mention when I ran your numbers above I used 7000# for the GVWR on the 264. I think that is what it was when I looked earlier.

Bottom line the bigger camper is pretty much out. You will be way over cargo weight.

The smaller one is right in the ball park of being maxed out if you load it down.

As I mentioned this is the exact scenario I was in with my Denali. We are playing with roughly the same cargo numbers. My hitch max was 1000 anyhow with Class IV.

This is why I went with the Jay Feather 25BH. It is basically the same floor plan but adds the optional outdoor kitchen, pocket doors for the front bedroom, a little nicer stereo, and a few other things like black flush. The bath vanity is inside the bathroom rather than outside. Not sure if it is better or worse. Just different. Not sure if you have the optional ladder but the 25BH has it. It doesn't have the large grab handle but I would imagine it could be added. Also it is the Fiberglass siding vs the tin. I have seen positives and negatives to both so another wash. It was a bit more cost wise but the GVWR is 6750 rather than 7000. Because we bought it at the RV Show and it was the one on the floor we got it for $21K out the door and it was fully loaded. Well almost. It had every option except the $75 ceiling fan which is one of the cheapest options available and one I would have taken over the bigger AC, the bumper grill and a few other things that were on it.

[Coldfusion]

267 is half ton towable the 28BHBE is 3/4 ton territory period


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[RAurand]

Here is what I have on my 2016 28BHBE If it helps estimating trailer weights.
EW: 6819 (Yes, weight sticker says INCLUDING FULL PROPANE)
We have about 1000 pounds of STUFF.
So our camping weight is 7819 pounds with about 10 gallons in the water tanks for traveling. (we have 2 for a total of 88 gallons)


We have 3 kids and we had the 26BH before and it became a little tight so that is why we got the 28BHBE. No regrets.

[suzhou]

It's been said more than a few time but will pile on since I learned the hard way (expensive) and the experts here helped me immensely - load capacity is the key number. Don't trust the marketing brochures or commercials or salesman, they all mainly talk towing capacity which is seldom an issue. The sticker on the inside of your driver door will tell you for your truck. Again, I learned the hard way. Had to upgrade my truck after I bought the trailer.

[LiftedAWDAstro]

I have a 2017 28BHBE and towed it last year with my 2013 Tundra 4x4 double cab. I was quite a ways over my trucks' rated 7100 GVW but under the GCWR of 16,000# by about 500#. My 28BHBE weighs right at 8500# with our gear and full water. Around 1200# tongue weight. According to the door sticker on my truck I could haul around 1400# in the bed. With just the truck loaded for camping with firewood (1 row), bikes, RC stuff and the wife and I, we were already at the 7100# GVW.

The Tundra has the power to pull with really no issues. Problem was the trailer is HEAVY! I added LT tires and a set of rear air bags to the truck to help and it made a huge difference. I was still way overloaded. I could have continued towing buy decided that I wanted a much more capable truck so I ordered a new Cummins diesel.

The other thing to look at is I use a ProPride hitch so I have absolutely NO control issues towing this large trailer. If you are near or over your limits, you better have a great hitch!

Here is the link for my CAT scale results.

[NY RVer]

LiftedAWDAstro is right on target with the numbers. My 28BHBE came in around 9000 lbs or over with full water and loaded when I stopped by a CAT scale on a trip. I was towing with an F350 with a diesel at the time, and now towing with a Ram 3500 with a diesel, so the weight is not an issue for me. Did some thinking about having my son tow it with his GMC 1500, but after looking at the numbers, regardless of what is advertised, it would just not be safe. Although the 28 is an awesome floor plan, you have to do what is safest for you and your family. Best of luck with whatever you decide to go with.

[Rustic Eagle]

spamcan,

Snapshot of the JayFlight 28BHBE loaded weights for your Tundra evaluation reference:

Three JOF members within this thread reported their 28BHBE (9,250lbs GVWR) "loaded" weights of 7,819lbs, 8,500lbs, and 9,000lbs., obviously representing different loading requirements/habits. The average of these three examples is 8,440lbs..

Recommended loaded tongue weight range: Average 8,440lb = 1,097lbs to 1,266lbs (13% to 15%).

Bob

[Treatcg]

Three things I don't like about my 267 SLX. The AC is knob controlled and not by wall thermostat. The water heater is gas only. Yes you can add an aftermarket setup but they are not the same. The bathroom is tiny. I am 5'10" and my knees touch the wall when going #2.

I hope to move up to a 28BHBE but I think this camper 3/4 ton territory. You might check out the Starcraft Launch Ultralite 27BHU. It has the huge bathroom and shower also.


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[spamcan]

Originally Posted by Treatcg

Three things I don't like about my 267 SLX. The AC is knob controlled and not by wall thermostat. The water heater is gas only. Yes you can add an aftermarket setup but they are not the same. The bathroom is tiny. I am 5'10" and my knees touch the wall when going #2.

I hope to move up to a 28BHBE but I think this camper 3/4 ton territory. You might check out the Starcraft Launch Ultralite 27BHU. It has the huge bathroom and shower also.

Good feedback, I'm 6'1" so I'm guessing the bathroom on the 267 would be an issue for me too. I'm now seriously considering the 287. Have to crunch #'s to see if that fits the tuck comfortably. I like the looks of that Starcraft 27BHU, may go step into one of them to see what we think.

LiftedAWDAstro - good tips on LT tires and the rear airbags. I had some bags on my Pathfinder, like the stiffer feel. Have any suggestions for the Tundra, Make/model?

[sennister]

Originally Posted by Treatcg

Three things I don't like about my 267 SLX. The AC is knob controlled and not by wall thermostat. The water heater is gas only. Yes you can add an aftermarket setup but they are not the same. The bathroom is tiny. I am 5'10" and my knees touch the wall when going #2.

I hope to move up to a 28BHBE but I think this camper 3/4 ton territory. You might check out the Starcraft Launch Ultralite 27BHU. It has the huge bathroom and shower also.


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Jay Feather 25BH has a ducted AC controlled by Thermostat. Water Heater is Gas and Electric. The GVWR is 6750 so it is 250# lighter (at max) than the 267 with virtually the same floor plan.

[Treatcg]

Originally Posted by spamcan

Good feedback, I'm 6'1" so I'm guessing the bathroom on the 267 would be an issue for me too. I'm now seriously considering the 287. Have to crunch #'s to see if that fits the tuck comfortably. I like the looks of that Starcraft 27BHU, may go step into one of them to see what we think.

LiftedAWDAstro - good tips on LT tires and the rear airbags. I had some bags on my Pathfinder, like the stiffer feel. Have any suggestions for the Tundra, Make/model?

My issue with the SLX line is the AC and water heater. I have owned my SLX for two years and I am ready to upgrade. We have a 10 and 12 year old so bunks are a must. Upgrading to the 287 SLX and I still have 2 of the 3 issues. My next camper is the 28BHBE or similar. The second entry and huge bathroom/shower is a bonus.

When getting out of shower in 267, there is no room to get dressed in the bathroom/shower area. Didn't think I would care at the time but it is a pain now.

I had a Raptor at the time so I didn't have the truck for the BHBE. I do now and will be upgrading to it or bigger.


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[Murff]

You might also consider the White Hawk line, spamcan. Similar floor plans to the trailers you have mentioned but are 1700 pounds lighter.

Murff

[LeonB]

A couple more differences between the BHBE and the SLX is 3 feet in length, the storage under the dinette seats, the bigger shower (for me this was a BIG plus). BHBE has 2 x 40g tanks freshwater tanks. Moreryde suspension on the BHBE. 14" tires on the SLX vs 15" on the BHBE. I think the SLX has 20lb propane tans vs the 30lb tanks on the BHBE. As people said the BHBE is heavy. I towed it with my F150. Power wise no issues, but in strong wind you get blown around as in my opinion the 1/2 tons just don't weigh enough. I used a Hensley Arrow which makes towing much easier on this size trailer. Also had airbags and LT tires. Had no issues when the wind was not blowing . I upgraded to a F250 to tow more comfortably.

[Woodworker]

The one thing I have noticed with our 287bhsw is the coolness in the bathroom an the bunks. The living area an our bedroom stay toasty but there is a coolness in the bathroom and my grandaughter said she was cold sleeping in the bunks. Not sure if it was just her liking an 80 degree room or something else. I told her to leave the curtains open the next night and same thing, she was all bundled up in the morning. Haven't been able to try the a/c, maybe in June the way our weather is goin

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[LiftedAWDAstro]

Originally Posted by spamcan

LiftedAWDAstro - good tips on LT tires and the rear airbags. I had some bags on my Pathfinder, like the stiffer feel. Have any suggestions for the Tundra, Make/model?

I put a set of Firestone air bags on mine and the work very well. I will be removing them today and they are for sale. I will send you a PM.

[Marklwil]

Hello,
I have a 27DDRL with a 16 Tundra TRD 4x4.. here is a link to the spec page for the Tundra.


We had zero problems pulling it home, but have not had a chance to get into the mountains yet. A friend has the basic same rig, and they have pulled all over the Colo. mountains. I have pulled a 19 ft all over the high mountains with no problem.


Simplistically, it has a 4.3 rear end (towing package) with ~10K towing, 1K tongue weight, 16K Gross Combined Truck and Trailer weight, payload ~1400-1600 ( why the range I do not know)..


To me more importantly is what length are you wanting to pull? 27 / 28 is a good size trailer. The truck in all likelihood can handle it.. how do you feel pulling ~50ft Truck / TT up the road?


All the best in your decision!


https://pressroom.toyota.com/release...a+tundra+specs

[Nukeneck]

Another option for you would be the White Hawk 28DSBH (I'm a bit biased). It is right in the middle of the two TT's you mentioned as far as weight. It has a lot of bells and whistles including the black tank flush and large door handle. The tank capacities are a little smaller than the 28BHBE and a bit larger than the 267. I think you will find towing with a 1/2 ton will push you towards a lighter weight trailer. This size trailer in any of the models mentioned is right at the top of a 1/2 ton's capability.

[Aardvarkjff]

Getting my first Jayco last fall, I have done the same research. Here is what I found in comparing the SLX and JayFlight lines:
SLX is more Budget minded over the Jayflight that is more luxurious/detailed.
We compared the SLX 287BHSW vs JayFlight 28BHBE. Both are identical floorplans.
SLX had shower curtain, no option to get roof ladder, no "side" windows in the slide, no option for kitchen skylight, less trim/details on the moulding, wall paper "backsplash" by kitchen sink, 20 lb propane tanks.
Flight had glass shower doors, option for ladder, windows on each side of the slide, option for skylight in kitchen, more details on the trim like some task lights over the sink, raised mosaic backsplash in kitchen, 30lb propane tanks.

soooo.. It really boils down to what bells and whistles you are looking for. The meat and potatoes are pretty much the same between the SLX and JayFlight lines. Hope this helps.