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Old 09-26-2014, 12:07 PM   #1
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Tired of wooden blocks!

I need 3- 2x4's to get off the back of my pick-up, looking for a drop leg
that will fit my attwood 3500 electric tongue jack. Anybody try a bulldog
drop leg on a attwood? I'd like something that would stay with the trailer
and not just put on take off at end of stay. The reason for this is, dropping the trailer off at dealer, I always have to get a forklift to raise me up to get back on truck. How does any one else deal with this problem?
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Old 09-26-2014, 12:34 PM   #2
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Can’t help with the bulldog question, as I have not tried either.

Just carious , when you drop the TT off at the dealer, they do not have a supply of blocks? The dealer I go to has a large box by the service entrance, and usually there are a few up against the fence, I assuming from people too lazy to put them away.

If they do not have any you should suggest it, as it would take some liability off of them using a fork truck to lift the tongue.
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Old 09-26-2014, 12:46 PM   #3
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X2 on what Jagiven said about the dealer always having blocks to use.

I too can't help on the bulldog question.

We use two 6x6's, never bothered me. Just toss them in the back of the TV.
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Old 09-26-2014, 01:26 PM   #4
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I made pads out of 4x6's that I bolted together. I have two of those and another single short one that I put on top. I did it this way so that while camping I have the jack extended as little as possible.
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Old 09-26-2014, 01:31 PM   #5
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I have a 14" piece of 4x6.
Why can't you take the 2x4s to the dealer?
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Old 09-26-2014, 04:49 PM   #6
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Wood blocks serve as risers but they also prevent the jack post from digging into the pavement or ground. Confused as to why you believe that a jack post that would have to be stored when not being used is any easier / better than a short piece of 4x4 or a couple 2x6's.
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Old 09-26-2014, 05:29 PM   #7
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Well when I have taken my trailer back to the dealer I have had to use blocks but when I go to pick it up they have droped it off out front and dont have my blocks under the jack and they will not place wheel chocks ether . So I have to chock wheels then raise jack up as high as it will go lower my corner jacks then raise power jack up to place blocks so i can get it up high enough to hook up to pickup. and when they have had it for two weeks the batterys are dead so have to get truck close enough to plug it in . Just love Camping World.
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Old 09-26-2014, 06:01 PM   #8
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Camping World, that explains it! Does this unit ride level when all hooked up? That is a lot of jacking around to get a unit hooked up. I drove jacked up Fords and now a Dodge and the front electric jack would always go high enough to get on my hitch.
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Old 09-26-2014, 07:54 PM   #9
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[QUOTE=snookwhisperer;237725]looking for a drop leg
that will fit my attwood 3500 electric tongue jack. Anybody try a bulldog
drop leg on a attwood? I'd like something that would stay with the trailer
and not just put on take off at end of stay. [/QenoughE]

This is what I used on my Atwood 3500.....

http://www.amazon.com/Fastway-88-00-...ords=flip+foot

It really works nice and adds a good 6" to the leg height....I still set a 2x6 under the foot to distribute weight evenly so the tongue doesn't dig into ground. Before adding the flipfoot I would have to use a 2x12 plus a couple of 4x4's to get it high enough to hook onto the hitch!! Now I don't have to carry all that extra wood because the foot stays attached to the jack. Happy camper now
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Old 09-27-2014, 11:33 AM   #10
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A neighbor at our winter RV park works for a railroad and gave me some roughlly 12x12 blocks of wood. I keep one in the truck and set it under the shoe. The electric tongue jack then has less work to do to get the coupler on and off the ball.

I looked briefly at the drop leg ads and decided I had too much tongue weight already and that I'd still want a solid platform under it to spread the load on the often soft ground, so why make the change.
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