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Old 07-27-2020, 05:25 PM   #1
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Tongue weight

Hi, I am looking at getting a SLX 154BH Baja. In looking at the specs it has a GVWR of #3500 and I would probably load it close to that. So going by the rule of thumb of 9 to 15% tongue weight it should be between 315 and 525 lbs at the tongue on the tow vehicle. But according to spec sheet the dry hitch weight is 295, so adding 295 + 57 lbs for the #30 propane tank, #20 for a battery and 217 lbs for water (#20 fresh and 6 gal. in water heater), that comes out to 589 lbs. Even if taking off 50 lbs of water since it is a couple of feet back from the hitch that still leaves it at 539 lbs. How can the hitch weight already be over the recommended 15% when nothing is loaded except for what is needed? Or am I missing something?
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Old 07-27-2020, 05:55 PM   #2
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Weigh your actual tongue weight. Not the speculation weights.
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Old 07-27-2020, 06:01 PM   #3
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Welcome to the Forum.

Do NOT go by any spec sheets the only reliable numbers will come from pulling on a scale. Get a tongue weight (only the jack on the scale). Get an axle weight, wheels on scale, jack off scale. Next weigh the camper EMPTY, unhooked on the scale. Finally get a vehicle weight, full fuel tank, this will be important for TV GVWR and payload capacity.

If you have a CAT scale near you, get the tow vehicle weight by itself, then you can weigh the camper on the truck and scale will give you numbers. A little math and youíll have ACTUAL real time numbers.


Finally, when you have the camper LOADED for camping meaning youíre pulling out of the driveway to go campingÖtake it to the scale. This will help with, payload, GVWR and GCVWR.

Keep in mind...If you plan on running a WDH, donít forget to include its weight in your numbers too. You donít have that listed above, if you add anti sway bar that also needs to be included in weight numbers. Vehicle payload adds up quicker than you think.
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Old 07-27-2020, 07:12 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by ALJO View Post
Weigh your actual tongue weight. Not the speculation weights.
This! You can not rely on the "literature" weights. I know it makes it very difficult to make a buying decision but that is why you need to leave yourself alot of leeway when doing research. Don't buy a trailer that is reportedly just under your tow vehicles capacity. Also, you need to look at Payload more than towing capacity.
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Old 07-27-2020, 07:44 PM   #5
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mtman,

Welcome to JOF

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtman View Post
snip......it has a GVWR of #3500 and I would probably load it close to that. So going by the rule of thumb of 9 to 15% tongue weight it should be between 315 and 525 lbs at the tongue on the tow vehicle ......snip
You are correct, and a sound approach since you don't have the TT yet.

To enhance TV handling of the 'single axle' SLX 154BH, I would target 13% to 15% under loaded conditions.

Once you have the TV/TT combo, the following JOF link may be helpful:

CAT Scale how-to: https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...v-tt-3871.html

Bob
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Old 07-27-2020, 08:44 PM   #6
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thanks for replying. But it is impossible to do all that as I do not own the trailer, it is at the dealership. The only number that would be off is their listed hitch weight, as I do know the exact weight of water a battery and full propane tank. A WDH hitch would be added to tow vehicle payload not tongue weight that is why I didnít list it. I am not concerned about total weight I am OK there I just donít want to have to heavy a load of tongue weight.

QUOTE=Colorado;880535]Welcome to the Forum.

Do NOT go by any spec sheets the only reliable numbers will come from pulling on a scale. Get a tongue weight (only the jack on the scale). Get an axle weight, wheels on scale, jack off scale. Next weigh the camper EMPTY, unhooked on the scale. Finally get a vehicle weight, full fuel tank, this will be important for TV GVWR and payload capacity.

If you have a CAT scale near you, get the tow vehicle weight by itself, then you can weigh the camper on the truck and scale will give you numbers. A little math and youíll have ACTUAL real time numbers.


Finally, when you have the camper LOADED for camping meaning youíre pulling out of the driveway to go campingÖtake it to the scale. This will help with, payload, GVWR and GCVWR.

Keep in mind...If you plan on running a WDH, donít forget to include its weight in your numbers too. You donít have that listed above, if you add anti sway bar that also needs to be included in weight numbers. Vehicle payload adds up quicker than you think.[/QUOTE]
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Old 07-27-2020, 08:48 PM   #7
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Thanks for replying. I am not worried about my vehicles payload or towing capacity only the tongue weight. I just donít understand how the basic needed equipment puts the trailer over itís rated tongue weight. I have a 600 pound tongue weight limit on my vehicle but the camper itself is not supposed to go over 525 according to the specs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcm157 View Post
This! You can not rely on the "literature" weights. I know it makes it very difficult to make a buying decision but that is why you need to leave yourself alot of leeway when doing research. Don't buy a trailer that is reportedly just under your tow vehicles capacity. Also, you need to look at Payload more than towing capacity.
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Old 07-27-2020, 09:00 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by mtman View Post
thanks for replying. But it is impossible to do all that as I do not own the trailer, it is at the dealership.
Why not ask the dealer to put a tongue scale under it, and tell you the exact weight. Then you can add and subtract as needed.
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Old 07-27-2020, 10:30 PM   #9
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If you decide to go to a commercial scale, like at Loves there are several tricks.

One is the scale is setup in segments so it can weight each axle on a rig as well as the total weight.

If it works out, you may be able to put the camper tires on one segment, straddle one segment under the tongue, and then get both front and rear axles of the truck on separate segments.

You may have to unhook the truck and move it slightly to get the tongue weight and truck axles separately.

As I recall the only downside of this is those scales, I assume, round to the nearest 100 pounds.

They used to allow you to do two sets of weights, leaving then coming back, for the cost of a weight. They should extend that to doing both at the same time.

So the goal is to weight the camper and truck with load equalization in place. Then drop the tongue jack and lift the trailer off the hitch. That will now give you the truck tires without the trailer and if the jack is in a segment by itself, you will get the tongue weight.

You may have to negotiate with them about you being in the truck. I was able to convince them that I wanted the truck and the camper, I can figure out what the people will add later.

Tom
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