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Old 09-14-2014, 09:41 AM   #1
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Torque math

The listed torque for a 2" ball with 1" shank is 250 ft lbs. So if I understand this right that is 250 lbs of force applied 1 foot from the shanks. So... if I put my torque wrench in a 3 foot pipe I need to set it to 83, 84 lbs. (Give or take). Does this sound right? I want to make sure it's torqued correctly but have neither the torque wrench, nor the rear end on my frame to apply 250 lbs!

thanks
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Old 09-14-2014, 09:50 AM   #2
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can't see how that is going to work....the torque wrench is still going to click out at 83 or 84. Just get a bigger torque wrench that goes to 250...mine does and it wasn't that expensive. If you have any alloy wheels on your trailer or vehicle they need to be torqued to 110 lbs feet so you would have it do that
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Old 09-14-2014, 10:00 AM   #3
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GMC,

Your correct that the torque value is equal to the force applied at a specific length, and your 3ft pipe calculations sound right.

This link might provide some conformation (one way or another):

http://www.physicsforums.com/showthread.php?t=432352

Bob
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Old 09-14-2014, 10:12 AM   #4
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GMC,

I know with my Reese WDH the ball mount bolts (3/4 size) they have a 300 ft/lb installation specification. I torque the nuts to 150 ft/lbs, then I turn the nut another 1/4 turn with a breaker bar to achieve the 300 ft/lb requirement (per Reese).

There may be a similar method for the 2" hitch ball nut torque, I'm looking.

Bob

On Edit: The following link had some great information on the subject of "torque wrench extensions" (check out the calculator, confirms your approach):

http://www.freeinfostuff.com/TorqueE...eExtension.htm
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Old 09-14-2014, 10:29 AM   #5
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try and think about this.....if you put the torque wrench with the socket on the ball nut it doesn't matter if you put a 50 foot pipe on the end of it you are always going to click out the torque wrench at 83-84 ft/lbs or whatever it is set at.

In order to do what you want to do you would need to have the pipe on the ball nut and the torque wrench on the end of the extender bar. But there is no way you can do that.

Just get a regular bar and socket. put it on the ball nut with your platform in your receiver ,put your feet on the bumper and pull....I have never actually gauged the torque on my ball and in 25 years and tens of thousands of towing miles never had one come loose
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Old 09-14-2014, 12:05 PM   #6
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The torque value will remain the same if you put the extension on the handle of the wrench. it will just give you an advantage to not have to work as hard pulling.
If you put an extension on the socket side of the torque wrench then you have to calculate you torque. ( torque wrench length x the torque value is divided by the torque wrench length + extension length)
ex:torque is 250'lbs, torque wrench is 18" long multiply =4500. torque wrench =18" the extension is 12" = 30. Now divide 4500 by 30 torque =150'lbs.
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Old 09-14-2014, 08:18 PM   #7
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^^^ Uhhh... What now?
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Old 09-14-2014, 08:24 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rolling Thunder View Post
^^^ Uhhh... What now?
I explained it my post quite well I thought.


putting a bar on the end of a torque wrench WILL give you more leverage or the ability to apply more torque BUT at the end of the day the torque wrench WILL click out at whatever value you set.. if it is at 83ft/lbs that is all you will be able to knowingly torque the nut to
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Old 09-14-2014, 08:31 PM   #9
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Ah. Got it ,I was looking at it backwards. I see now that putting a pipe on the wrench would not multiply torque. Nice thought though right?! I guess the bumper pull method sounds good. One of my concerns was over tightening and weakening the shank. Now that I look at a 1" shank I don't think I should lose sleep over putting torque on it!
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Old 09-14-2014, 08:34 PM   #10
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you do multiply torque but you will not be able to measure it .

you are never going to over torque it. I never have and I work out
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