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Old 04-29-2015, 08:59 AM   #11
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I can tell you from experience, you will likely be able to tow the trailer (esp if your RAM has the 5.7), but you will definitely be over on payload, and you will get tired of the towing experience VERY quickly. That trailer is too much for that truck IMHO unless your usage pattern is low speed, relatively short trips in the flats. But even that doesn't change the fact that you will be over your payload spec.

Keep in mind, some people don't care about being over on payload if their truck FEELS right, and they stay under GAWR on the rear axle, but I'm not in that camp because my 1/2T never felt very confident towing this trailer. There are guys towing this trailer with 1/2T trucks and doing perfectly fine.

There is a significant difference between being technically able to tow the trailer and whether you should. I was technically able, and my numbers were within specifications (in the beginning, but like everyone else, I add gear at a pretty good clip). I was never confident in my setup, and it just wasn't worth it to be worrying all the time about weights, and wondering if I was putting my family at risk.

So I bit the bullet and traded in my GMC Sierra 1500 on a RAM 2500. Haven't been on the first trip yet, but just bringing the trailer home from storage, I can tell you, it's a HUGE difference. I can tell you that my rig is WELL within specifications now, so if nothing else, that's one less thing to worry about all the time.

These two threads are VERY relevant to your current situation. Those CAT scale results were shortly after I bought my trailer, and we pack VERY light (or at least we used to, that was before my son was born and our "stuff" suddenly increased by a factor of 4!).

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f3...ing-26695.html

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f3...lts-17202.html
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Old 04-29-2015, 11:50 AM   #12
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I had a Ram 1500 with 5.7 Hemi and 3.92 pulling a Jayco Eagle 256RKS with a yellow sticker of about 5500#s. While Dodge stated a tow capacity of 8500#s, the towing experience was not a good one. I traded the Ram 1500 for my Ram 2500 and the towing experience changed dramatically with the Jayco Eagle 256RKS. I now have a Eagle 28BHBE, basically the Eagle version of the Jayflight and based on my experiences the Jayflight 284BHBE is too much trailer for your truck, especially when it comes to safety.
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Old 04-29-2015, 12:28 PM   #13
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Add another one to the upgraded truck list. We upgraded our 2013 F150 after about 3 or 4 trips pulling a lighter 28BHS. The trailer you are looking at will easily be in the 900 to 1000lbs tongue weight range.
My usual formula is to take the dry weight (6135lbs) and add 1000lbs of stuff and use 13% of that weight for your tongue weight.

7135*0.13=928lbs tongue weight.

You could be a little lighter or heavier but not 300lbs lighter. I don't think travel trailers tow well with only 10% tongue weight.

What is your door jamb payload capacity? Rams are usually at the lower end for payload but 900lbs sounds a little low. Do you carry a lot of permanent weight (tools, tonneau cover, bed mat...) that you could remove for some more payload?

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Old 04-29-2015, 01:24 PM   #14
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I have a 2014 Ram Sport 4X4 with 5.7Hemi. I only have the 3:21 axle so towing a trailer as big as the 28BHBE is not an option for me but I will give what I figured out for payload on my Ram.
Sticker on the door says 1318lbs payload. I figure with my family loaded in the truck and nothing else, my max tongue weight would be around 900lbs (with a full tank of fuel). However I am a big believer in giving myself a 10 to 15% safety margin so I have given myself what I believe to be a realistic and safe max tonque weight around 800lbs for any trailer I would look to haul. Some people tell me I am being too cautious with putting that limit at 800lbs and I can do closer to 1000lbs of tongue weight. The answer is yes I probably could but why put myself and my family in a potentially unsafe position.
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Old 04-29-2015, 03:03 PM   #15
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The door tire load sticker says "the combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed 1254 lbs". I did add a Mopar Hard Tri-fold tonneau cover after purchase, otherwise I have factory options of sunroof, wheel to wheel side steps, spray in bedliner that would add to the base weight. I personally weigh in at about 250 so going from the "advertised" curb weight of 5450 + 250 for me + 300 lbs for the tonneau cover, sidesteps, bedliner, sunroof and a couple of car seats for the kids seems reasonable and gets to the 6000 lbs that the scale said. There isn't anything else that I can think of as "permanent" weight...

The Cat scale numbers were:
Front Axle : 3380 lbs
Rear Axle: 2620 lbs
Total: 6000 lbs

I stopped in at two different RV stores this afternoon and when I mentioned that I was concerned about the GVWR on the truck vs the floor plans that we liked, they looked at me like I had a third hand growing out of my head...
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Old 04-29-2015, 03:06 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TommyAjax View Post
The door tire load sticker says "the combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed 1254 lbs". I did add a Mopar Hard Tri-fold tonneau cover after purchase, otherwise I have factory options of sunroof, wheel to wheel side steps, spray in bedliner that would add to the base weight. I personally weigh in at about 250 so going from the "advertised" curb weight of 5450 + 250 for me + 300 lbs for the tonneau cover, sidesteps, bedliner, sunroof and a couple of car seats for the kids seems reasonable and gets to the 6000 lbs that the scale said. There isn't anything else that I can think of as "permanent" weight...

The Cat scale numbers were:
Front Axle : 3380 lbs
Rear Axle: 2620 lbs
Total: 6000 lbs

I stopped in at two different RV stores this afternoon and when I mentioned that I was concerned about the GVWR on the truck vs the floor plans that we liked, they looked at me like I had a third hand growing out of my head...
I had the same experience. All the dealers seem to understand is rated towing capacity. I did have one tell me that it would be wise to stay 10%-15% below that but that's the "best" advice I got from a dealer.
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Old 04-29-2015, 03:28 PM   #17
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Suppose we all had real third party approved DOT/NHTSA standard B pillar numbers on our trucks. None developed by manufacturers but the real thing. My bet is that not a single truck from 1/2 ton to 1 ton would pass the tests based upon current numbers. They would all come way down. A 250 to 350 is a spring pack change. A max tow package is a bigger alternator.

You folks have way to much faith in a system that is not an actual system at all.
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Old 04-29-2015, 04:09 PM   #18
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Tommy,

I have the trailer you mentioned.

I think by now you have gathered that "advice" from RV salesman is not helpful (to put it in the kindest possible way).

You need to educate yourself, and you have taken the best first step by asking here on the forum.

There are all kinds of specifications. However, to me the only one that matters is what I call the "underwear color" specification. That is, the right truck for the trailer I want is the truck that will let me exit the cab after a day of travel where the usual collection of idiots on the road did their usual collection of stupid stuff and my shorts are still the same white color I started the day with. For me that was a truck that was operating at about 80% of the paper specifications.

I read that "80% rule" somewhere in one forum or another and it made a lot of sense to me.

So, my answer is that no, I don't think you have enough truck for the desired Jayflight 28BHBE, and that you will find travel far more enjoyable if you go to a larger truck.
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Old 04-29-2015, 04:15 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TommyAjax View Post
I stopped in at two different RV stores this afternoon and when I mentioned that I was concerned about the GVWR on the truck vs the floor plans that we liked, they looked at me like I had a third hand growing out of my head...
Most salespeople at RV dealerships will tell you a Pinto will tow a 5th wheel all day long. Some don't know, some don't care, all are looking for a sale TODAY.

Quote:
Originally Posted by eldermike View Post
Suppose we all had real third party approved DOT/NHTSA standard B pillar numbers on our trucks. None developed by manufacturers but the real thing. My bet is that not a single truck from 1/2 ton to 1 ton would pass the tests based upon current numbers. They would all come way down. A 250 to 350 is a spring pack change. A max tow package is a bigger alternator.

You folks have way to much faith in a system that is not an actual system at all.
Many "Max Tow" packages include auxiliary engine oil and transmission oil coolers as well as "bigger alternators".

And we can only use what we have. With the development and adoption of SAE J2807 standards, I'm hoping that gets us closer. I'm not an engineer, nor do I have enough money to drive a truck into the ground to see when it breaks, so I have no choice but to trust what the manufacturer tells me.
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Upgraded from an REI internal frame backpack and a Eureka 1/2 dome tent!
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Old 04-29-2015, 05:11 PM   #20
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I just bought the 2015 the Jayflight 28bhbe (great trailer). I had them put a weight distribution hitch on my truck. It distributes the weight over the whole truck not just the back, so my truck does not squat. It has the hitch and then two armlike things with chains (kind of works like the handles on a wheel barrel to distribute the weight). I am running 2013 F-150 ecoboost with towing capacity (per manufacturer) of 9,200. The weight of the trailer is approx. 6100 (not fiberglass option, fiberglass makes it heavier approx. 7100 with fiberglass option) with capacity to 9200. I figure with it full of all our stuff I am looking at about 7,200 pounds towing. Maybe want to look into that weight distribution hitch.
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