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Old 04-09-2020, 07:29 AM   #1
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Towing Question - New to this

Hi,
I am new to camping and am struggling with wrapping my head around what I can tow vs what I should tow. I have a family of 5 (2 adults and 3 kids).

I have a 2016 Ford F150 ecoboost 3.5 with a 3.55 axle. The towing capacity of the truck is 11,500 per the owners manual.
GVWR is 7000 lbs.
Max Tongue Weight is 1,100.
Combined weight is 1764.

I am looking at a 2017 JAYCO JAY FLIGHT SLX 267-BHSW.
GVWR: 7000
DRY WEIGHT: 5425
PAYLOAD CAPACITY: 1575
HITCH WEIGHT: 635

Can I safely tow this? Or will it be a white knuckle drive?
Thank you in advance for your help. I don't want to be the unsafe driver.
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Old 04-09-2020, 07:43 AM   #2
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Your primary concern when doing the math, is payload. Take that number, and start subtracting.

Start by subtracting the tongue weight. The tongue weight in your numbers looks too low. A good working number to determine the tongue weight is to multiply the loaded trailer weight by .13. Subtract that number from your payload.

Have a topper? Subtract that weight. And the weight of the people in the tow vehicle. And pets. And the generator in the truck bed. And, it's fuel. So, everything in the truck gets subtracted from payload. You're good, on paper at least, so long as you end up with a positive number.

The only true way to do the math is to take the entire rig to the Cat scales, but that's not so practical prior to purchase.

I'm ignoring what your truck is rated to tow, as it' much more likely you'll run out of payload before you run out of tow rating.

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Your question is one of the most common here on the forum, but you're the first person to show up with all their figures. Good on you! Welcome aboard.
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Old 04-09-2020, 08:11 AM   #3
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Check to determine if a full tank of gas and the driver weight is included in the listed payload spec. I don 't know about now, but back when I purchased a new truck some things were assumed in the mfg payload calculation.

It may not make a great difference but it will not really be evident until you load the crew up and go to the scale.

Just a rough calculation , You will be very close or over the payload.
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Old 04-09-2020, 08:32 AM   #4
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don't forget your hitch... you will likely be right at the payload..



Tires on that truck probably should be evaluated. If you need new ones go up a load rating a C load rating for sure or a D rated tire...



WDH with sway is in order as well... so at 1575 less all the above maybe it is diet time?



remember if you decide to go out and get a bigger truck that the older 3/4 ton diesels generally have the same payload you have on your 1/2 ton... you need to go to a 1 ton or a gas 3/4 ton will have plenty of payload.. check your local registration guidelines some states have a low tab renewal on a one ton here it is 139 vs 10% of the value of the truck...

2020 trucks have all new payloads almost across the board..



Good luck!
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Old 04-09-2020, 08:35 AM   #5
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Yes, congratulations on providing most of the numbers for the group to help you!

Don’t forget the weight of the hitch if it’s not already installed, and the sway bars and weight distribution bars.
Full propane tanks and extra batteries add a lot to tongue weight also.
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Old 04-09-2020, 09:52 AM   #6
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You will get a bunch of information here some of it good and some of it, well let's just say go your own research. Google in your friend and by searching "Can I tow this" you will find pages including some calculators to help figure your loads against your truck. Start there and don't believe what a RV dealer tells you. They sell them but most have no idea the tow limits.

https://learntorv.com/what-can-i-tow/
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Old 04-09-2020, 12:28 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curver900 View Post
don't forget your hitch... you will likely be right at the payload..



Tires on that truck probably should be evaluated. If you need new ones go up a load rating a C load rating for sure or a D rated tire...



WDH with sway is in order as well... so at 1575 less all the above maybe it is diet time?



remember if you decide to go out and get a bigger truck that the older 3/4 ton diesels generally have the same payload you have on your 1/2 ton... you need to go to a 1 ton or a gas 3/4 ton will have plenty of payload.. check your local registration guidelines some states have a low tab renewal on a one ton here it is 139 vs 10% of the value of the truck...

2020 trucks have all new payloads almost across the board..



Good luck!
I guess I could be reading it wrong, but I think the 1,575 is the payload of the camper...or one heck of a coincidence that the trailer's GVWR - 1,575 is the dry weight.]

OP: Is the 1,764 you have listed your truck's payload from the yellow sticker on the door frame? It seems like a really small number for GCWR.

That all being said, unless you really want a new TV, I would get as much accurate information about your vehicle and trailer as you can and make the decision yourself based on payload, towing capacity, hitch weight, etc. I used to tow a Whitehawk with a Yukon and it was comfortable for me and never felt white knuckled. I never weight anything back then and I'm sure I was over the payload on that SUV. There is always a more capable tow vehicle, but trucks are really darn expensive now.
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Old 04-09-2020, 01:11 PM   #8
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I’m skeptical with fords new tow ratings on the f150. In 2015 they went up in towing capacities due to the new aluminum bodies and turbos. So the truck weighs less hence the increase in capacity. I’d still hate to max out any truck but a heavier truck is gonna tow better than a lighter one. And when a turbo blows you are stranded with a v6. I have a 2014 with the 302 v8 and I tow a dump trailer loaded very regularly. It comes in around 6000lbs. I wouldn’t tow more than that without a beefier truck. Just my opinion but if your getting anywhere close to the max capacity you should Re-evaluate your TV or trailer you choose to buy
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Old 04-09-2020, 05:33 PM   #9
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Hi, I had a similar F150 but with the 2.7eco (9.5 diff 3.73 gear) and a 8300lbs towing capacity and a 1664lbs payload. 5.5 feet box and Super Crew Cab.

The trailer was a 2015 Sunset trail 270bh with a 7500GVWR and 625 tongue weight. Loaded, the tongue was around 1000lbs and the trailer was 7200lbs. On the scale, I had 50lbs left on the truck RAWR of 3800 with 4 bikes and some wood in the box.

Engine was perfect but the 2015 and newer F150 are a bit "light". Anything over 70mph was a bit unnerving. I had a Equalizer WDH, setup well.

I traded my 2016 F150 for a 2017 Expedition Max, a ~1000 lbs heavier truck and the difference was noticeable, in a good way. I also tow that trailer with a 2012 QX56 the first summer and it was also better than the F150.

So to answer your question, your 3.5 F150 with the 6.5box (longer wheelbase) is within specs and ok to tow the Jayco no problem, but there is better tow vehicle out there.


Anyway, it's all about the feeling behind the wheel, my neighbor tow a 37 feet overall TT with is 2015 F150 and he's really happy with is setup...
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Old 04-10-2020, 06:03 AM   #10
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I won't get into numbers but I do have a solid experience towing numerous trailers with the 3.5L Ecoboost in F-150's.

The engine, brakes, and transmission are absolutely awesome and flawless in my opinion. The problem with that (again, my opinion) is the rear suspension isn't up to snuff for what the engine/trans can do and "can" give a false sense of ability of the truck.

I tow 9K with a 13,500 trailer tow rating F-150 (going off memory) and its not fun, all due to the rear suspension. You have to have the trailer balanced just right, sway bar cranked WAY tight, and then its 60 mph max or else you are dancin.

I knew all of this going in and was ok getting my 324BHTS because I tow 58 miles one way, one hill, and back home. Have no intentions and will NOT tow this set-up across country or up in the mountains.

So thats alot of rambling to tell you I think you are good, assuming you load the trailer right, and have the proper hitch and anti sway solution in place, tires all set properly, etc and don't get in a hurry.

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Old 04-10-2020, 06:57 AM   #11
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Look into the roadmaster active suspension. I have it on my F150 and I love it. Bolts right on and improved the rear suspension feeling tremendously. It lifted the rear about 1” and really helped with the bouncy feel with a heavy trailer
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Old 04-10-2020, 07:17 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by morleyz View Post
I guess I could be reading it wrong, but I think the 1,575 is the payload of the camper...or one heck of a coincidence that the trailer's GVWR - 1,575 is the dry weight.]

OP: Is the 1,764 you have listed your truck's payload from the yellow sticker on the door frame? It seems like a really small number for GCWR.

That all being said, unless you really want a new TV, I would get as much accurate information about your vehicle and trailer as you can and make the decision yourself based on payload, towing capacity, hitch weight, etc. I used to tow a Whitehawk with a Yukon and it was comfortable for me and never felt white knuckled. I never weight anything back then and I'm sure I was over the payload on that SUV. There is always a more capable tow vehicle, but trucks are really darn expensive now.

oh stupid me I looked at the jayco payload.. so add 200lbs to the above...
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Old 04-10-2020, 08:26 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CAG View Post
You will get a bunch of information here some of it good and some of it, well let's just say go your own research. Google in your friend and by searching "Can I tow this" you will find pages including some calculators to help figure your loads against your truck. Start there and don't believe what a RV dealer tells you. They sell them but most have no idea the tow limits.
Best advice so far...
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Old 04-13-2020, 05:20 AM   #14
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That Ecoboost will pull that trailer anywhere. Mine was a 2014 Max Tow F150 (3.5L, 3:73) with that trailer (2019) and a previous 2015 Keystone Laredo 25BH. I had LT tires, Timbrens, and Bilsteins plus the Andersen No Sway WDH (lightest hitch out there). Pulled it over every major pass because we took our time and tried to be as safe as possible.

Reality is I never had anything in the bed of the truck because I was already at the limits on the scales and I had to load the trailer perfectly every time to get the numbers just right. It was two hands on the wheel at all times and if the wind kicked up or somebody passed us on the interstate I was definitely driving it. This is real world data. I can’t count how many times we went to the scales to check it out. Mine wasn’t aluminum, so maybe the scales will tell you a different story. I was dialed in and felt confident especially because we always took our time, but my goal was always to move into a big boy truck. Finally moved up to the 3/4ton in my signature. The 3.5TT kills this 6.4Hemi, but the weight and stability of this truck makes it a night and day difference. Throw whatever I want in the bed, set the cruise to 65mph, one hand on the wheel and it’s always a relaxing drive. Wind that would have me down to 40mph with the F150 doesn’t even move this set up. I can’t tell you how much nicer it is to pull into camp without being stressed out from the drive. It’s a dog compared to the Ecoboost, but we aren’t racing, just relaxing. PM if you have any specific questions. Good luck and be safe.
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Old 04-14-2020, 07:08 AM   #15
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Or use the ghetto formula....1/2 the max tow rating...lol!
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Old 04-14-2020, 08:38 AM   #16
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Haven't heard anything lately from the OP.
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Old 04-14-2020, 10:23 AM   #17
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I would figure a tongue weight based on a fully loaded TT, and worst case scenario of 15% tongue weight (13% is excellent place to be at). So that would be 7000*.15=1050 pounds tongue weight.

Now you have to remember all the stuff that is in and on the vehicle. So as others mentioned, do you have a topper, tool box, WDH, firewood, entertainment for kids. By the way kids bring a lot of stuff with them. Kids also grow, so remember that. Last time I checked Ford does their payload calculations based on a full tank of fuel and an "average" sized driver of 150 pounds.

Stock truck, max tongue weight and WDH, you will be coming in 1125 pounds. So you have about 600 pounds remaining payload for passengers and cargo.

Once you get setup, it is excellent to make a stop at the CAT Scales and take a few measurements.

A lot of people like to sit at the 80-90% payload capacity, for a little reserve.
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Old 04-14-2020, 12:03 PM   #18
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[QUOTE=

Last time I checked Ford does their payload calculations based on a full tank of fuel and an "average" sized driver of 150 pounds.

.[/QUOTE]


average is 150?? man not around here...
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Old 04-15-2020, 12:25 PM   #19
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You need a bigger tv

Quote:
Originally Posted by wilson View Post
Hi,
I am new to camping and am struggling with wrapping my head around what I can tow vs what I should tow. I have a family of 5 (2 adults and 3 kids).

I have a 2016 Ford F150 ecoboost 3.5 with a 3.55 axle. The towing capacity of the truck is 11,500 per the owners manual.
GVWR is 7000 lbs.
Max Tongue Weight is 1,100.
Combined weight is 1764.

I am looking at a 2017 JAYCO JAY FLIGHT SLX 267-BHSW.
GVWR: 7000
DRY WEIGHT: 5425
PAYLOAD CAPACITY: 1575
HITCH WEIGHT: 635

Can I safely tow this? Or will it be a white knuckle drive?
Thank you in advance for your help. I don't want to be the unsafe driver.



You will be white knuckled, as well as everyone in the truck. Unless you have 20's (tires) you will have handling problems. I had a 2015 F150 2.7eb, and towing a shorter and lighter trailer was at times challenging. Your principle concern is passengers (who will undoubtedly grow) and cargo (ditto). A 2019 Ford SuperDuty would not only raise your towing capacity, but raise your tow vehicle load capacity. Looking at 1,100 lbs on the receiver of an F150 would REALLY put your headlights in the sky. An F250 SCrew with base engine and 6.75 ft bed has load cap of 3,057 lbs. nearly DOUBLE the F150.
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Old 04-15-2020, 12:27 PM   #20
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average is 150?? man not around here...
That's a Texas Extra Small
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