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Old 03-15-2022, 11:49 AM   #1
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Trailer bottom plastic coroplast

I wanted to ask a question to everyone about the plastic coroplast that covers the bottom of the trailers. Ours seems to be "drooping" right over the axle area which also is where the fresh water tank is. We usually travel with it full (55gal) due to boondocking most of the time.

Is this normal for this material after some time? I can feel the tank there however I can also see the top of the tank under the cabinets and its solid not loose.

Unfortunately I just took it into the shop for some other things to be fixed (first time back since purchase) so I dont have pictures. I asked them to take a look as well but honestly not sure I trust that they will diagnose and fix it correctly if needed. So I wanted to ask the forum for thoughts and experience with more tailers than I have owned...
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Old 03-15-2022, 12:28 PM   #2
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You have more confidence than I. Had me at an extra 456 lbs flying down the road. Our black coraplast sags in several places, a bit over the axles) and actually looks like it is tucked up under the back frame rail. I don't hold much confidence in it other than it keeps the road grime off the undercarriage. It helps as an insulate too. How low is it sagging? Close to the axle? I don't know how much the tanks could sag. Post a picture when you can.
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Old 03-15-2022, 02:21 PM   #3
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Likely you will have to drop the coroplast to tell for sure. My 5th wheel had insulation on top of the coroplast and below the tanks (enclosed underbelly) If that gets wet it will sag but if it is not dripping water that is probably not the case. Besides the insulation my tanks sat on a layer of 3/4 ply so sagging was not something the tanks would do. Again, you may to drop yours to see or hopefully the shop will tell you if there is an issue.
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Old 03-15-2022, 06:12 PM   #4
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I would get under the sag area (carefully) and push it up in several places. If it won't move up than there is a chance that your tank(s) have come loose and are sagging. Several posts on this happening. Mine was held on with one of the straps having a screw half out when I checked it. Now it has an extra strap and better screws.

Mine were easy to check as no covering over the black or gray tanks.
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Old 03-17-2022, 11:41 AM   #5
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Thanks for the feedback! I will have to drop it and take a look, thats not fun... If I find its sagging any suggestions on how best to brace it or support the tank better?
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Old 03-17-2022, 11:51 AM   #6
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While tanks can come loose and drop the chances are pretty slim. I do not know how Jayco braces theirs but on my Heartland all tanks were held by metal straps that were attached to the frame. Under them was 3/4 ply that was also strapped and attached. Tanks do fall out but in most cases, something springs a leak soaking insulation or just plain old bumping down the road causes sag. If it is not dripping water I would not get too concerned until something proved me wrong.

You can run straps from side to side under the coroplast to bring it back up if you wish but again, if it is just a bit of sag I would not get excited if the inspection did not turn up some problem.
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Old 03-17-2022, 12:22 PM   #7
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My coroplast has sagged pretty much since new. I thought for a while that it was the plumbing drains, but it might have been the leak and weight of water from my grey tank input that wasn't properly connected. I'd had it for less than 18 months when that was discovered.

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Old 03-17-2022, 03:11 PM   #8
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Just purchased a new 34RSBS and the coroplast was sagging in the rear. When I climbed under and pushed up a gallon or so of water poured out. The dealer tried to tell me it was likely condensation. I had them repair it to my expectations and will be keeping a very close eye on it.
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Old 03-17-2022, 05:44 PM   #9
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The top of my frame is covered with "wood". It's Basically the floor of the trailer. The fresh water tank is installed on top of the floor, so if the tank is sagging its likely that it leaked and the floor is now rotten.

When we had our RV delivered to our permanent site, I asked the dealer to fill the water tank. Afterwards, reading this forum, I found out that RVs should not travel with a full tank.

In our case, we believe that the jostling on the road caused water to spill out of the tank, and onto the floor (where its not visible) and since it stayed there for a few years, THAT is the reason our floor rotted out on the front half of the trailer.
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Old 03-17-2022, 07:08 PM   #10
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Im not worried about the floor, it is solid as it was day one (its only 8 months old anyway). Also there is minimal wood if any in the floor as its a composite foam/aluminum just like the walls but thicker. Nothing is sagging on the floor either, just the plastic underneath. Since its at the dealer right now I did ask them to look at it, I just hope they get to it ASAP as we have a trip in a month.
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Old 03-21-2022, 03:02 AM   #11
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You don't need to drop the coroplast to see the problem, that's too much trouble. You can get an inexpensive boroscope that uses your smartphone as a display to snake into the problem area and have a look.

You can go in via the side gaps or drill a small hole in the coroplast. I've used boroscopes many times to diagnose issues where it's difficult to reach on cars, trucks, houses, and my TT. Works great.
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Old 03-21-2022, 07:23 AM   #12
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You don't need to drop the coroplast to see the problem, that's too much trouble. You can get an inexpensive boroscope that uses your smartphone as a display to snake into the problem area and have a look.

You can go in via the side gaps or drill a small hole in the coroplast. I've used boroscopes many times to diagnose issues where it's difficult to reach on cars, trucks, houses, and my TT. Works great.
I just ordered another one. I had forgotten that I had one in a truck that was stolen about 4 years ago. I could have used it this weekend and it didn't occur to me that I once owned one. I dropped a tool into an engine compartment that still is lost. Small, cheap and replaceable but I still would like to get the tool out.
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Old 03-24-2022, 05:08 PM   #13
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This also happened on our Eagle 28RSOK, I just poked a few hole with a knife where the worst sags were just to see if it was caused by water but it was not. It doesn't hurt anything and water will drain if anything bad happens.
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Old 03-24-2022, 05:46 PM   #14
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Thanks for the idea! I ordered one of those scopes, should be here tomorrow. I was also thinking about it, when you over fill your tank, where does that leak out? Does it go into that plastic covered space? I know there are some drain holes in it but I wonder if some water has splashed out in there. I will look when it gets back from the shop. They said it was next in line so hoping in the next couple days it will be in a bay. Crossing my fingers they are telling me the truth!
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Old 03-24-2022, 05:49 PM   #15
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When our tanks are full it starts coming out of the overflow tubes. We have two fresh water tanks.
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Old 03-25-2022, 05:08 PM   #16
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Here's what mine looks like

Hey Tom,

Similar trailer but not quite on my end (Highland Ridge's Micro clone). Below is what my underbelly looks like. In general, it all sags a little towards the centerline. Mine does rest a bit on the axle also. It doesn't see to be an issue. When I push up, nothing seems to move.

Like you, we often travel with a nearly full fresh tank. We often camp without a water supply (national forest primitive sites or for about 6 months of the year up in the PNW, state and county park campgrounds turn off water, even if it is usually available). I also agree that filling up closer to camp is a PITA (again sometimes hard to find from Oct-April in the PNW), plus I know my home water quality is good.

I second the scope tool advice. I have one from previous house projects and have found it useful on the trailer.
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Old 12-07-2023, 02:32 PM   #17
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You don't need to drop the coroplast to see the problem, that's too much trouble. You can get an inexpensive boroscope that uses your smartphone as a display to snake into the problem area and have a look.

You can go in via the side gaps or drill a small hole in the coroplast. I've used boroscopes many times to diagnose issues where it's difficult to reach on cars, trucks, houses, and my TT. Works great.
How does one "drop the coroplast"? I needed to get about 12" up under the stuff to replace a Valterra grey tank handle and extension that fell off somewhere out on the road.

I headed under the trailer with a set of nut drivers thinking that the coroplast was held up by machine screws. Not the case on my '23 263RBS. It appears to be attached with some kind of rivet into the metal frame that will not easily come out. I did not force them out.

I had to get to the valve to dump the forward grey water tank at the campsite. I took a utility knife and made a slit from the frame to the valve (about 12" long). The stuff cut like butter. I pulled the valve open with pliers, careful not to damage the threads on the rod and dumped the tank.

I screwed in a new extension rod and handle that I ordered from ETrailer. I can see why it fell off. The is no way to torque the rod onto the dump valve rod. That rod just spins. It had no lock nut or any way that I could see to torque it to the dump valve. I imagine it (and the other one) will fall off again. I covered the slit I made in the plastic with Gorilla Tape.

While I was under there, I saw a spot that my dealer had patched after fixing a major water leak from the shower. They had just taken a piece of the coroplast and used wood screws to fasten it over the hole they made. Yes, wood screws.

Of course, this was coming loose and no doubt would have ripped off in the wind on our next trip. I secured the edges as best I could with Gorilla Tape. At this point I would really like to redo the whole under carriage with something better that that plastic stuff. No idea if this would be possible.

But, Yes, mine is sagging in several places.

Here is the leak. First day of our first trip.

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Old 12-07-2023, 10:41 PM   #18
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To repair it for the long term, drill out the rivets and remove the chloroplast. To replace it, use metal screws or you can buy a rivet gun and replace the rivets. I would use screws. I had a sag under my fifth wheel and bought two pieces of 1" angle steel from a big box store and bolted it from one side of the frame to the other to support the chloroplast. You can also do use youtube and research "RV chloroplast repair".
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Old 12-08-2023, 03:35 AM   #19
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To repair it for the long term, drill out the rivets and remove the chloroplast. To replace it, use metal screws or you can buy a rivet gun and replace the rivets. I would use screws. I had a sag under my fifth wheel and bought two pieces of 1" angle steel from a big box store and bolted it from one side of the frame to the other to support the chloroplast. You can also do use youtube and research "RV chloroplast repair".
Thank you. I have already been looking at some of the YouTube videos.

This riveted Coroplast does not seem like good way to seal up the bottom of an RV. Little to no insulation value and every time something needs to be repaired, it has to be cut or, drilled out. Then the laborious process of replacing it and trying to seal it. It sags, catches wind and, is not rigid.

When I had to cut into mine to get to the wastewater valve, I could see flimsy little electrical connections that were obviously not designed to be exposed to the elements and 70 mph winds. Same goes for the ducting under there. If you have heated tank pads, etc. what could go wrong?

Then, there is my case of the dealers doing warranty work and then just slapping a piece over what they cut out. It came loose on the first tip.

There has to be a better way.
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Old 12-08-2023, 07:55 AM   #20
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My fifth wheel was a Heartland Bighorn that was certified "Four Seasons". It had a layer of the silver, thin bubble type insulation above the chloroplast which was screwed to the frame. I would definitely use screws, especially in areas that you might need access to later on.
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