Trailer bounce

[jamaddox]

I guess I will want to look into the blistering shocks or upgraded rancho shocks. I had heard the ranchos were good but I guess this is another case of a manufacturer just making things good enough.

[DGW]

Blue Ox Tow rig solved every problem I've ever had. A little on the expensive side but you get what you pay for.


https://www.blueox.com/trailer-towing/swaypro/

[jamaddox]

I don’t really have a sway issue but a bounce or porpoise issue. If my only recourse is another hitch then that will need to weight

[Rustic Eagle]

John,

Originally Posted by jamaddox

I don’t really have a sway issue but a bounce or porpoise issue.....snip

What brand, model, and weight rating WDH do you have?

Bob

[Joenissan]

Porpoising is not normal if set up correctly. Either the WD bars are not dialed in right, the truck is overloaded, you’re using the wrong size ball, or any combo.

[redley]

Sounds like the tongue weight is light on the ball.
Try moving some weight forward toward the
front of the inside of trailer.

Check the slide fit on the hitch receiver. Should
not have any slop.

Trailer V brace should be level to ball hitch.

For these reasons I went from towing trailers to
hauling trailers using a 5th wheel. 99% safer and
parts don’t wear out as easily.

Be safe out there!

[Riverman]

I have a 3/4 ton truck with an equalizer hitch... and absolutely no problems towing with it. Sounds like something just isn't set up right. I've used many hitches since 1960 and the Equalizer is my favorite.

[mikegray]

I have the Fastway e2 2-Point Sway Control Round Bar Hitch, 94-00-1000, 10,000 Lbs Trailer Weight Rating, 1,000 Lbs Tongue Weight Rating, Weight Distribution Kit Includes Standard Hitch Shank. I had a 2 in. ball to start with which the dealer said would be ok but it really bounced. I went to the CURT 40030 Chrome Trailer Hitch Ball, 15,000 lbs., 2-5/16-Inch Diameter Tow Ball with 1-1/4-Inch x 2-5/8-Inch Shank and that took all the bounce out. Have a GMC 1500 V8 4x4 TV and a 2014 Flight 26BH TT. Only had 4 6 months but so far no troubles.
Mike
Mike

[jamaddox]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

John,
What brand, model, and weight rating WDH do you have?

Bob

Equalizer with 12k bars. At least my dealer told me 12 k when I upgraded my trailer because I was concerned I would have to buy other bars. Does anyone know how to tell. I painted over the sticker that was on them because the bars were starting to rust and I was a little too aggressive with the rustoleum. I should have said that originally as I realized when people immediately started to say I needed a new hitch

[jamaddox]

Originally Posted by Joenissan

Porpoising is not normal if set up correctly. Either the WD bars are not dialed in right, the truck is overloaded, you’re using the wrong size ball, or any combo.

The dealer set it up for me (and I paid extra for that on the second trailer) so I would think they would give me the right ball. I have been looking into the bars as that is one thing a tech did just because he said that with my F250 I did not need as much tension on the bars. I doubt the truck is overloaded(can’t prove that yet as i just can’t immediately drive to a scale) as that is the reason I went from an F150 to an F250 as the 150 was overloaded by 300 lbs on the rear axle of the truck.

Right now the trailer is my driveway on about a 4degree slope so I can’t do any adjustments yet

I guess something else 8 need to mention, or remention, is this really only happens on rough interstate or dips on the road.

[jamaddox]

Originally Posted by redley

Sounds like the tongue weight is light on the ball.

Try moving some weight forward toward the front of the inside of trailer.

Check the slide fit on the hitch receiver. Should not have any slop.

Trailer V brace should be level to ball hitch.

For these reasons I went from towing trailers to hauling trailers using a 5th wheel. 99% safer and parts don’t wear out as easily.

Be safe out there!

I have been trying to figure out what to move forward. There are some clothes that were not included on my summarization trip to the dealer but those are not that heavy. My front compartment is also filled my bulk6 and heavier items but I will look into my load out plan.

I don’t feel any slop on the slide going to receiver.

Everything looks level but I mentioned in an earlier post that I can’t check it again right now because of where it sits in my driveway.

5th wheel might be in my future but not immediately and not jus5 for this

[scapel]

Originally Posted by jamaddox

I don’t really have a sway issue but a bounce or porpoise issue. If my only recourse is another hitch then that will need to weight

I think you just need to have more tongue weight and then move that weight forward using the equalizer hitch. I have a 20 year old Hensley Arrow that has worked fine. If you have any bounce just tighten up your equalizer bars. I have only been through three trailers. If you go from 1/2 ton to 3/4 you have to exchange your slide connecter and you have to pay the shipping. I have gone from 1/2 ton to 3/4 ton towing vehicle and back to 1/2 ton over the last 20 years.
"Happy Trailering"

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by jamaddox

Equalizer with 12k bars. At least my dealer told me 12 k when I upgraded my trailer because I was concerned I would have to buy other bars. Does anyone know how to tell.....snip

John,

Thanks for the feedback.

Are you referring to the brand name "Equal-i-zer" WDH? I ask because some folks use the term 'equalizer' often when referring to any brand WDH. In many cases the thickness and/or length of a spring bar can identify the associated weight rating, but one would have to contact the WDH manufacture to confirm identification criteria.

Your 27DSRL has a 7,500lb GVWR and a WDH rated at 1,200lbs is an ideal match for your TV/TT combination, even when loaded to the TT's GVWR.

As mentioned earlier in this thread your CAT scale visit will address any set-up reservations you might have....., because even an experienced RV dealer tech can't optimize a WDH set-up in a parking lot.

Also, even the perfect TV/TT/WDH combination will occasionally experience an 'effect' from a less than ideal road condition, especially towing a 30ft 'plus' TT.

If your 2017 F-250 has the OEM 2 1/2" receiver pin box and your utilizing the OEM 2 1/2" to 2" insert adapter, the stack-up tolerances can create some vertical WDH movement under certain towing conditions. When 'unhitched' grab hold of the WDH ball mount and move vertically.

Bob

[shloubrew]

Don’t trust your dealer’s hitch setup. I understand that’s disappointing as you paid good money for them to do it. But my hitch was setup all out of balance from the dealer and I’ve seen many others that was as well. Either take it back or watch some you tube videos and learn how to do it properly yourself.

It really sounds like you need more tongue weight. You don’t need to move anything around in the trailer, you need to adjust the hutch to increase the tongue weight.

[TCNashville]

Certain road conditions are going to produce some bounce no matter what you do. Laws of Physics come into play and can't be ignored.

[jamaddox]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

John,

Thanks for the feedback.

Are you referring to the brand name "Equal-i-zer" WDH? I ask because some folks use the term 'equalizer' often when referring to any brand WDH. In many cases the thickness and/or length of a spring bar can identify the associated weight rating, but one would have to contact the WDH manufacture to confirm identification criteria.

Your 27DSRL has a 7,500lb GVWR and a WDH rated at 1,200lbs is an ideal match for your TV/TT combination, even when loaded to the TT's GVWR.

As mentioned earlier in this thread your CAT scale visit will address any set-up reservations you might have....., because even an experienced RV dealer tech can't optimize a WDH set-up in a parking lot.

Also, even the perfect TV/TT/WDH combination will occasionally experience an 'effect' from a less than ideal road condition, especially towing a 30ft 'plus' TT.

If your 2017 F-250 has the OEM 2 1/2" receiver pin box and your utilizing the OEM 2 1/2" to 2" insert adapter, the stack-up tolerances can create some vertical WDH movement under certain towing conditions. When 'unhitched' grab hold of the WDH ball mount and move vertically.

Bob

Yes I have that specific brand of hitch. I did use the adapter for a while until I found out that the one I had was not WDH rated. I think I mentioned earlier the extra 150.00 but not sure. Anyway that was me buying a new shank. I will adjust my load out but it might have been that road. I think everyone that drives it hates the section of I65 in Bullet County

[jamaddox]

Originally Posted by shloubrew

Don’t trust your dealer’s hitch setup. I understand that’s disappointing as you paid good money for them to do it. But my hitch was setup all out of balance from the dealer and I’ve seen many others that was as well. Either take it back or watch some you tube videos and learn how to do it properly yourself.



It really sounds like you need more tongue weight. You don’t need to move anything around in the trailer, you need to adjust the hutch to increase the tongue weight.

Yeah I planned on double checking things before we leave. I can’t do it now as my driveway is about a 4degree slope. When I upgrade my tires in a month then I will get out the measuring tape.

One thing I do have a question though is that the manual said my spring bars should be parallel to the frame. Is there any good way to check for that besides taking measurements in a few spots and comparing them?

[shloubrew]

Originally Posted by jamaddox

Yeah I planned on double checking things before we leave. I can’t do it now as my driveway is about a 4degree slope. When I upgrade my tires in a month then I will get out the measuring tape.

One thing I do have a question though is that the manual said my spring bars should be parallel to the frame. Is there any good way to check for that besides taking measurements in a few spots and comparing them?

That’s all I ever did. You can eyeball it and see if it’s parallel, on the equalizer I think it’s meant to be a double check to make sure the hitch is setup properly. If it’s not parallel the frame mounted pieces are either way over or under adjusted, or u have too much tension on the bars, or have the wrong amount of washers in the head - I think it’s just meant to flush out a bunch of bad conditions.

I always try to set mine so the camper is just a hair nose down (compared to perfectly level) - if possible depending on the adjustments. Read through the manual on measuring the front and rear squat at the wheel wells, and you tube is very useful to visualize how it’s done.

I’ve set up 3 hitches now. I always set up what I think is going to be the best w the measurements, then end up tweaking it at least a couple times. PIA, but end up w a nice riding rig in the end.

[shloubrew]

Also, my buddy went through what sounds like the same thing your dealing with. Upgraded to a 2500, and had to drop the ball significantly lower, flipping the hitch head over. Trailer barely made that truck sag at all compared to his old 1/2 ton. Had to reset up the whole hitch.

[Riverman]

You might download the hitch setup instructions and follow them step by step, if you don't have the manual.