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Old 06-28-2016, 07:28 AM   #11
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Wouldn't add a second sway bar? when I did research they said "anything over 25 ft should have a second sway bar" I put a second one on my 28ft'er and it made a world of difference. I haven't touched my WD set up. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-57521-O...ds=rv+sway+bar
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Old 06-28-2016, 07:47 AM   #12
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RA do you crank down the tongue jack when you are tightening the chains? You should.. if you can do it otherwise they bars are not tight enough.. Using the tongue jack Lift the truck at least 3" when on the ball then put the spring bar chains on and tighten... this is why so many of us have electric tongue jacks...
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Old 06-28-2016, 08:45 AM   #13
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if the front is an inch higher with the WDH, it's because it's not tight enough...


you want it to be pretty close to what it is unloaded. how tight is the sway bar?
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Old 06-28-2016, 09:10 AM   #14
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Yeah something isn't adjusted right. There is no way you should be able to set your chain tension without raising the TT and TV with the jack first. If I tried to put mine on the correct link without raising TT and TV it is impossible to even get the proper chain link up to the connection bracket. If I released my tension without raising everything up together the result would be something on my body broken.
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Old 06-28-2016, 09:24 AM   #15
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Although I am NOT , by any stretch of imagination, an expert on this subject, it sounds to me like you MAY need to drop the hitch ball 1 hole. Doing this would drop the tongue of the trailer when hitched without the bars. This would also "add" tongue weight. This would allow you to have more links hanging free after attaching wd bars which SHOULD place more weight on steer axle and level the trailer again. Perhaps someone can explain this better than I. Hope this helps, Dave
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Old 06-28-2016, 09:25 AM   #16
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Thank you all for the advise.


Here are answers to some of the above questions.
I did go to the CAT Scale. EW of my trailer is 6819. Loaded weight for camping is 7300. Tongue weight is 550 pounds.


We do travel light. All my tanks are empty. Other than loading up the front storage pass thru, how can I make the tongue weight heaver?


When traveling, there is usually 1 free hanging chain link at the top. The rest are under tension, but not a really tight tension. I can just use the pull bar to pull the chains up. I do not need to raise the trailer by the power jack stand.
The tighter I make the chain tension, the more sway I have.


With 1 free link, I measured the TV and it is only 1" off level with the front being 1" higher than when the trailer was not connected. When hooking up the trailer without the spring bars, the front of my Expedition only raises about 3".


There is a sway bar on the Right side of the A-Frame. You just can not see it in the photo as it is on the other side.


From what it sounds, I need to get the tongue heaver. So, other than loading the front pass thru storage, how would I make it heaver?
Is that 550 lb tongue weight measured? Or is that a brochure weight? 550 lbs on a 7300 lb trailer is only 8%. This alone could be largely responsible for the sway you're experiencing. With the BHBE, you want to be closer to 15% (longer trailer reacts more favorably at higher end of allowable tongue weight).

I will also echo what others have said about the WDH; its purpose is NOT to level the tow vehicle, it is to return lost weight to the front axle. You want the trailer to be level or slightly nose down, and the front axle to be the same weight (height is an approximation) as it is when unhitched. When you're setup properly, you will most likely have to raise the truck and trailer to get the bars under tension.

Look up the instructions for your hitch and take all the measurements yourself. If you had the dealer set up your hitch, chances are it's wrong. I've only heard a couple people here say their dealer did the hitch right the first time.

Honestly though, I'm wondering how you could get the tongue to be so light? When I'm basically unloaded, I'm still right at 10-11% on the tongue. I don't store a lot in the rear of the trailer simply because it's inconvenient, so most of my "stuff" goes up front. I would take whatever you can and put it in the front storage, and under the master bed. Also, putting some water in the tanks will help a little. Setting the trailer slightly nose-down (like 1" or so) will help a little too.

Post back with what you do and how well it works, and good luck!
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Old 06-28-2016, 09:30 AM   #17
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Is that 550 lb tongue weight measured? Or is that a brochure weight? 550 lbs on a 7300 lb trailer is only 8%. This alone could be largely responsible for the sway you're experiencing. With the BHBE, you want to be closer to 15% (longer trailer reacts more favorably at higher end of allowable tongue weight).
X2! I was just reading this thread and thinking the same thing.
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Old 06-28-2016, 09:38 AM   #18
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Is that 550 lb tongue weight measured? Or is that a brochure weight? 550 lbs on a 7300 lb trailer is only 8%. This alone could be largely responsible for the sway you're experiencing. With the BHBE, you want to be closer to 15% (longer trailer reacts more favorably at higher end of allowable tongue weight).
the brochure tongue weight is 610lb, so add a battery and it should be over 650lb. something doesn't add up... I never seen a tongue weight under the advertised value
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Old 06-28-2016, 09:39 AM   #19
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The more I think about this thread, the more I think the best advice IMO is to start the hitch setup over from scratch per the instructions.

It sounds like you could be nose high on the trailer? That could explain the feather-light tongue weight.

Anyway, that's what I would do if I were you. I would locate the instructions for the hitch, find a relatively level spot, load up the trailer as best I could, and get my tape measure and tools out and just set it up right from scratch.
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Old 06-28-2016, 09:46 AM   #20
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Thats an easy fix - spend a few dollars and purchase an Equal-i-zer WDH!
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