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04-02-2018, 06:14 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 279
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Trailer Tongue Fell (Ideas to Prevent Again)
So on our last trip I backed into the spot at a pretty severe angle. I chocked the tires on both sides, front and back, using the solid rubber chocks from harbor freight. I then proceeded to un hitch.
Just as the coupler came off the ball the trailer jumped to the side a couple inches and teetered on the edge of my stacked lynx levelers about 6 high. Now the ball was not lined up to the coupler anymore so I couldn’t easily lower it back on. As I held it there my wife came over and I asked her to hold it so it doesn’t fall off. I went to the truck to line it back up but just as I did the front slid off and hit the ground. Sounds worse than it was as the tongue jack just landed on the ground and nothing bad happened. Scary though.
I imagine it was from the lateral strain from backing up at an angle. Nonetheless, I need a solution so it doesn’t happen again. So does everyone else that uses wood blocks.
Anyone have any ideas? I need something that extends my jack about 8” more than my foot pad that is already extended. I don’t like extending my tongue jack too much as it causes rocking.
I’ve not seen anything that seems much safer so I might make something. I’m thinking something like a 10”x10” block about 10” high with a 1” circle routed into it would work. Seems like it would also help stability.
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04-02-2018, 06:20 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Tucson
Posts: 661
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__________________
2018 Dodge RAM 2500 / Cummins 6.7 Turbo Diesel
2018 White Hawk 28RL
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04-02-2018, 06:41 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Surprise
Posts: 2,623
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nighthawk87
So on our last trip I backed into the spot at a pretty severe angle. I chocked the tires on both sides, front and back, using the solid rubber chocks from harbor freight. I then proceeded to un hitch.
Just as the coupler came off the ball the trailer jumped to the side a couple inches and teetered on the edge of my stacked lynx levelers about 6 high. Now the ball was not lined up to the coupler anymore so I couldn’t easily lower it back on. As I held it there my wife came over and I asked her to hold it so it doesn’t fall off. I went to the truck to line it back up but just as I did the front slid off and hit the ground. Sounds worse than it was as the tongue jack just landed on the ground and nothing bad happened. Scary though.
I imagine it was from the lateral strain from backing up at an angle. Nonetheless, I need a solution so it doesn’t happen again. So does everyone else that uses wood blocks.
Anyone have any ideas? I need something that extends my jack about 8” more than my foot pad that is already extended. I don’t like extending my tongue jack too much as it causes rocking.
I’ve not seen anything that seems much safer so I might make something. I’m thinking something like a 10”x10” block about 10” high with a 1” circle routed into it would work. Seems like it would also help stability.
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do you not have a foot on your tongue jack? It is a mushroom shaped piece so the footprint is much larger than the round jack. I built a block out of 2 X 10", about a foot high which I place on the ground then lower the jack onto it. I have never had it slip or move any, even on very in-level ground. The foot also helps with stability.
Good Luck.
__________________
2011 Toyota Tundra double cab
2015 27RLS
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04-02-2018, 07:01 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wags999
do you not have a foot on your tongue jack? It is a mushroom shaped piece so the footprint is much larger than the round jack. I built a block out of 2 X 10", about a foot high which I place on the ground then lower the jack onto it. I have never had it slip or move any, even on very in-level ground. The foot also helps with stability.
Good Luck.
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I have a foot that attaches to the bottom. It’s about 6” in diameter, but I need more height.
No matter how well the trailer chocked if it’s under a bit of stress it may move an inch or so when it comes off the ball...
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04-02-2018, 07:09 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Bellingham,Wa.
Posts: 6,680
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Here's the foot I use and at home I just place a 6x6 under it.
__________________
2010 Jayco Hybrid EXP21M
2013 Toureg TDI
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04-02-2018, 07:13 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tunce the traveler
Here's the foot I use and at home I just place a 6x6 under it.
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That one could just as easily slip off. I guarantee even a properly chocked trailer could be pushed enough on be front or worse, when the ball comes off the coupler and the trailer tongue releases it can move an inch or two.
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04-02-2018, 07:30 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: South/Eastern Oregon
Posts: 2,257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nighthawk87
So on our last trip I backed into the spot at a pretty severe angle. I chocked the tires on both sides, front and back, using the solid rubber chocks from harbor freight. I then proceeded to un hitch.
Just as the coupler came off the ball the trailer jumped to the side a couple inches and teetered on the edge of my stacked lynx levelers about 6 high. Now the ball was not lined up to the coupler anymore so I couldn’t easily lower it back on. As I held it there my wife came over and I asked her to hold it so it doesn’t fall off. I went to the truck to line it back up but just as I did the front slid off and hit the ground. Sounds worse than it was as the tongue jack just landed on the ground and nothing bad happened. Scary though.
I imagine it was from the lateral strain from backing up at an angle. Nonetheless, I need a solution so it doesn’t happen again. So does everyone else that uses wood blocks.
Anyone have any ideas? I need something that extends my jack about 8” more than my foot pad that is already extended. I don’t like extending my tongue jack too much as it causes rocking.
I’ve not seen anything that seems much safer so I might make something. I’m thinking something like a 10”x10” block about 10” high with a 1” circle routed into it would work. Seems like it would also help stability.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Before unhooking from your pickup and putting your jack down. Block your trailer tires, put the truck in neutral put your foot on the brake and release the emergency brake. Take your foot off the brake slowly and see if the trailer moves. If the truck and trailer do not move, you should be safe to unhook the trailer. The truck and trailer should move a inch or two, but it will be a controlled roll to tighten up the wheels up on the blocks. You might be doing this, but I just thought I would toss it out there. I do this and have never had a problem with movement when unhooking.
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04-02-2018, 07:46 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duke4857
Before unhooking from your pickup and putting your jack down. Block your trailer tires, put the truck in neutral put your foot on the brake and release the emergency brake. Take your foot off the brake slowly and see if the trailer moves. If the truck and trailer do not move, you should be safe to unhook the trailer. The truck and trailer should move a inch or two, but it will be a controlled roll to tighten up the wheels up on the blocks. You might be doing this, but I just thought I would toss it out there. I do this and have never had a problem with movement when unhooking.
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I do that if I’m on level ground. But if I’m on a slope then that wouldn’t work.
I think I’m gonna go the safe route and just visit Home Depot and make a big block and use my router to make a big hole recess for the jack pad to sit in. This way it won’t ever move.
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04-02-2018, 07:55 PM
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#9
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Site Team
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Connellsville
Posts: 22,723
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__________________
Moderator
2017 Jay Feather 7 22BHM Baja/Andersen WD
2018 F150 4x4 3.5L Ecoboost Max Tow
2015 MB Sprinter 2500 Passenger 2.1L Diesel
2007 Ram 2500 4x4 Cummins 5.9L G56
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04-02-2018, 08:01 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Midnightmoon
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Yes but it’s recessed area is too big. The spot for the jack requires me to remove my foot which would be counter productive since I need the height it gives.
I guess it doesn’t have to fit perfectly into that recessed area but it’s really expensive for a piece of plastic. My wood idea is the same...
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04-02-2018, 08:05 PM
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#11
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Site Team
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Connellsville
Posts: 22,723
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nighthawk87
Yes but it’s recessed area is too big. The spot for the jack requires me to remove my foot which would be counter productive since I need the height it gives.
I guess it doesn’t have to fit perfectly into that recessed area but it’s really expensive for a piece of plastic. My wood idea is the same...
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Yea, your wood idea will work just as well or better. Just throwing it out there in case you weren't familiar with it.
__________________
Moderator
2017 Jay Feather 7 22BHM Baja/Andersen WD
2018 F150 4x4 3.5L Ecoboost Max Tow
2015 MB Sprinter 2500 Passenger 2.1L Diesel
2007 Ram 2500 4x4 Cummins 5.9L G56
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04-02-2018, 08:07 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Midnightmoon
Yea, your wood idea will work just as well or better. Just throwing it out there in case you weren't familiar with it.
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Thanks. I’m just surprised nobody makes anything that fits better. Has to be a common issue.
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04-02-2018, 08:08 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: South/Eastern Oregon
Posts: 2,257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nighthawk87
I do that if I’m on level ground. But if I’m on a slope then that wouldn’t work.
I think I’m gonna go the safe route and just visit Home Depot and make a big block and use my router to make a big hole recess for the jack pad to sit in. This way it won’t ever move.
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Yes, slopes can be tricky. I have a 6"x 10" myself. I also add a 2"x 6" or two if I need it.
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04-02-2018, 08:19 PM
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#14
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Michigan
Posts: 9,424
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This is my set-up and has worked well for me for years, 4 support blocks and 1 (or more) top support boards. I use the same support size blocks under my stabilizers as well (1 under each stab).
The larger piece of wood directly under the round metal jack foot I carry three of them and use as needed.
Bob
__________________
2016 GM 2500HD 6.0L/4.10
2018 Jay Flight 24RBS
2002 GM 2500HD 6.0L/4:10 (retired)
2005 Jayco Eagle 278FBS (retired)
1999 Jayco Eagle 246FB (retired)
Reese HP Dual Cam (Strait-Line)
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04-02-2018, 08:26 PM
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#15
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: DeForest
Posts: 40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duke4857
Before unhooking from your pickup and putting your jack down. Block your trailer tires, put the truck in neutral put your foot on the brake and release the emergency brake. Take your foot off the brake slowly and see if the trailer moves. If the truck and trailer do not move, you should be safe to unhook the trailer. The truck and trailer should move a inch or two, but it will be a controlled roll to tighten up the wheels up on the blocks. You might be doing this, but I just thought I would toss it out there. I do this and have never had a problem with movement when unhooking.
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X2 ^^
Our favorite campground shares an area that also has a ski hill a couple miles away so a level site is unheard of. I use Duke4857's technique letting the weight of the trailer with the truck attached and in neutral to put pressure on the down hill side chocks then a second set of chocks on the up hill side. Then I disconnect from the truck. My down hill chocks are the Lynx lock ones that lock to the leveling pads. Never had a problem.
I also bring several different lengths of 6x6 treated posts from about 4" to probably 14" to use under both the front jack and the stabilizer jacks.
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04-02-2018, 08:46 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Dale Hollow Lake Tn/Ky
Posts: 2,525
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I pretty much avoid any site with a severe slope. There is just too much jack needed to balance out the front to rear. That can really reek havic on a 30' plus TT resulting in a very high step at the front door. Unless its the only site left I would move to another site. Being retired we can avoid Friday arrivals and end up with a much better site selection.
What is causing the violent hitch release and subsequent movement of the jack foot?
I typically put a piece of 2/6 under the jack foot and maybe add a 4x4 block on top of that if additional height is needed.
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04-02-2018, 08:59 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 9,782
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I had that happen to me, two springs ago. I thing the soil was just soft. We use 2x6's to level, and chocking the lifted side is hard. I now apply my plastic Camco version of x-chocks between the wheels early, hand have them up tight.
As for the tongue, I set on the ground 2 pieces of plywood, that are 6x12" side by side. Then place on top of that a custom made multi step tongue block. This helps keep the weight spread out on soft soil.
I might have a picture on my work pc.
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04-03-2018, 03:48 AM
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#18
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 74
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Similar to what Jagiven mentioned, X-Chocks have worked very well for us. The tires essentially go on "lock down" when these are applied to both sides. Almost entirely eliminates any possibility of forward or backward movement on both sides, thus lateral movement in the forward part of the frame is severely diminished as well. It may not solve the entire issue as you described it, but it may help when added to your current plan.
https://www.amazon.com/X-Chock-Wheel...words=x+chocks
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2017 Jay Flight SLX 267BHSW
2018 F250 SCREW 6.2, 5 Star Tuned
ProPride 3p
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04-03-2018, 07:46 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Full Timer In Naples
Posts: 219
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Sounds like your tires had side wall torque left in them after backing up. You need to back in and then straighten the trailer to remove the side wall tension or it will happen again. and chocks wont stop that from happening. good thing you didn't lose a shin or toe.
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2017 Ram 3500, Big Horn, 6.7, Crew, Long, DRW, Aisin, 4:10. Full timer in a Pinnacle
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04-03-2018, 08:09 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Boise
Posts: 123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duke4857
Before unhooking from your pickup and putting your jack down. Block your trailer tires, put the truck in neutral put your foot on the brake and release the emergency brake. Take your foot off the brake slowly and see if the trailer moves. If the truck and trailer do not move, you should be safe to unhook the trailer. The truck and trailer should move a inch or two, but it will be a controlled roll to tighten up the wheels up on the blocks. You might be doing this, but I just thought I would toss it out there. I do this and have never had a problem with movement when unhooking.
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X2 - I’ve had a few times where the trailer moved after setting chocks and unhooking from the TV, even had the jack come off the blocks once. Then I began using the technique Duke4857 uses. I’ve never had another problem.
__________________
2017 F150 3.5 Ecoboost, screw, Max Tow, Blue Ox Sway Pro, 2017 Jayco 24MBH
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