TT lock for tongue???

[justlb33]

What are people using?? I’ve seen some online but some reviews say they are just deterrents and can be removed with a pry bar.

[clubhouse]

They keep honest people honest. A determined criminal can defeat all the locks. I used a simple pad lock on the hitchball retaining slide of the tongue, stored it in a secure location and had good insurance.

[John from Central Florida]

There are a number of locks out there, but as Clubhouse says they mainly keep honest people honest.

In my case, the flange around the hitch ball receiver is too large to accept all but the most expensive locks, which I can’t afford. I use a simple hitch pin lock to help secure that part.

In addition, after unhitching, I lower the front of the trailer using the power tongue lift so as to hopefully place it lower than any dirt bag’s truck hitch. Then I remove the power tongue fuse.

As an extra deterrent I use a Master Lock Python to lock two wheels together.

On a different note, most of the problems we’ve seen in my area are dirt bags not taking the trailer, but breaking into it.

[TWP723]

Reese Towpower is what I use. But I believe it's collecting dust in the garage because our trailer's kept in a fenced and monitored lot.

[travelingjw]

I agree with Clubhouse. I purhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YPD7O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1chased the following lock from Amazon. Nice lock but it will only protect agains that casual thief.

[nevermind]

Originally Posted by TWP723

Reese Towpower is what I use. But I believe it's collecting dust in the garage because our trailer's kept in a fenced and monitored lot.

All that means is they have to get through the gate or section of fence (2 mins) and the operator of the storage lot will have blurry pictures of the vehicle and people that take your trailer.



Just insure it properly and don't keep precious keepsakes inside.

[venoran]

We have a Trimax UMAX100, a MasterLock 2847DAT latch lock, and a padlock connecting the safety chains behind the jack. The Trimax and latch lock are a bit loose due to the shape of the underslung coupler, but they lock up tight enough that you'd need serious tooling to remove them. The Trimax is all steel on the inside of the plastic cover, so it's pretty solid.

But...as everyone says these locks keep honest people honest. Anyone with a sawzall, angle grinder, hacksaw, crowbar, bolt cutters, big hammer and chisel could remove pretty much any coupler lock setup you choose. Some might take a bit longer, but they cost serious $$$ so you better be ready to pay.

If you want a real beast of a coupler lock and have $300...here you go, people seem happy with them:
https://www.provenlocks.com/products/model-2516-j

That model fits underslung couplers if that's what you have on your trailer, if not then they have other models. Also has a place to padlock your safety chains to. However I could still get that off if you gave me 10-15min and some good tools or a cutting torch. Still...that's about 10min longer than most of the other cheaper locks.

The cheap yellow Reese lock isn't wide enough to fit over the underslung coupler on our White Hawk.

[jcrammell]

Originally Posted by venoran

We have a Trimax UMAX100, a MasterLock 2847DAT latch lock, and a padlock connecting the safety chains behind the jack. The Trimax and latch lock are a bit loose due to the shape of the underslung coupler, but they lock up tight enough that you'd need serious tooling to remove them. The Trimax is all steel on the inside of the plastic cover, so it's pretty solid.

But...as everyone says these locks keep honest people honest. Anyone with a sawzall, angle grinder, hacksaw, crowbar, bolt cutters, big hammer and chisel could remove pretty much any coupler lock setup you choose. Some might take a bit longer, but they cost serious $$$ so you better be ready to pay.

If you want a real beast of a coupler lock and have $300...here you go, people seem happy with them:
https://www.provenlocks.com/products/model-2516-j

That model fits underslung couplers if that's what you have on your trailer, if not then they have other models. Also has a place to padlock your safety chains to. However I could still get that off if you gave me 10-15min and some good tools or a cutting torch. Still...that's about 10min longer than most of the other cheaper locks.

The cheap yellow Reese lock isn't wide enough to fit over the underslung coupler on our White Hawk.

I just bought a Jayco Jayflight and I bought the Proven Industries coupler lock. If when you say "good tools" you're meaning a angle grinder, you would need longer then 10-15 minutes. This lock is no joke. Yes a cutting torch would cut right through it. However not many criminals carry a cutting torch in their back pocket. I think the weak point of the coupler lock would be the puck lock. I am looking at having it turned into a bump and pick free lock. I don't mind spending a little money on a new investment. It saved me once by buying a good item to protect my truck so I did it again.

It is true that there is not a 100% way of securing your stuff. If a thief wants it bad enough they will get it if they have the time and the tools. My job is to make it as tough as possible for them and to entice them to go take someone else's stuff that isn't locked up.