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Old 05-31-2011, 07:20 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by eredinger View Post
So when hooked up the truck does sit a bit down in the rear...but almost not even noticeable. One thing I do notice is the trailer nose is down. I am using an adjustable ball mount with the WD bars. Could this be too low and cause the TT to have the weight shift forward and push the rear end of the truck down?

The only other thing I can think of is I'm putting the WD chains on at the wrong time. I put them on with no weight on the hitch, then lower the trailer fully.
To check the set-up of the hitch, try this,
Park the TV-TT combo on a level and flat paved area, and un-hitch. Now using the TT tongue jack, adjust so the TT is level. Measure the height of the TT coupler. Now measure the height of the TV ball as it sits with nothing connected. It should be slightly higher than the TT coupler height (maybe 1 inch). Now couple the TV and TT together, then raise the coupled combo to engage the WD bars. Raising this way allows for easier-safer WD bar connection. Now lower the TT tongue jack so it's out of the way. The coupler height should now be within one inch of the original, TT levelled height. This will tell you if you're in the ballpark for hitch adjustment. As a previous post said, your dealer should be able to help you make any corrections. If you only need more tension on the WD bars, one or two less chain links may do it. The angle of the hitch head determines the range of possible tension on the WD bars.

It seems you have a friction bar for sway control. Be sure you have it tightened down well. It should make noises when you go around corners. Also, you should feel it "grabing" as it comes into play on the road. A 26BH may be long enough to need two friction bars (one each side of TT tongue). Others can comment on that.
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Old 05-31-2011, 08:15 PM   #12
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OK first after you have attached the trailer to the truck crank the tongue jack up as high as you can then attach the WD chains... this is why a lot of us go with power tongue jacks
if getting the WD chains tighter does not fix the problem THEN
look at a HENSLEY ARROW hitch or a pro glide... since I went to my HA hitch I have never had the trailer move from behind me...
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Old 05-31-2011, 08:19 PM   #13
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Quote:
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snip.....A 26BH may be long enough to need two friction bars (one each side of TT tongue). Others can comment on that.
I agree. Since the OP confirmed that he has a standard WDH (not an Equal-i-zer), most WDH manufactures do in fact recommend that two (2) friction control sway bars be used on TT's longer than 25ft..

Once the OP gets his WDH dialed in, the next move should be to address his sway control....., may want to consider adding a Reese HP Dual Cam to his WDH in lieu of the 2nd sway bar.

Bob
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Old 05-31-2011, 08:47 PM   #14
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Didnt realize that you should have two over 25 feet -- good to know. I can only say that I am pulling my 26BH with one and have never an any sway at all. I tighten it as far as I can by hand, then back off a half turn. It creaks and moans, especially the first few turns. Are you getting yours that tight?

I think I would upgrade to a Reese or Equalizer before I went to the trouble to add another sway bar.
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Old 05-31-2011, 09:11 PM   #15
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Here's the hitch I have. I think I need to try and check the set up again before I take my next trip. After talking to the wife about it, it didn't feel this way when we left the dealer, so it must be with the height if the new class 5 hitch.

http://www.eaz-lift.com/eazlift/pro/pro_elite.html

I'll check it in the next few days.
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Old 05-31-2011, 09:26 PM   #16
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The model EazLift WDH you have is the round bar style, so once you have the correct weight distribution adjustment in place the spring bars should run parallel (as close as possible) to the TT A-frame.

Your TT was empty when it departed the dealer, now it's loaded so the WDH will have to be adjusted. If your new receiver is higher/lower than the old one, as you mentioned this will effect WDH adjustments as well.

Bob
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Old 05-31-2011, 09:59 PM   #17
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snip.... If your new receiver is higher/lower than the old one, as you mentioned this will effect WDH adjustments as well.

Bob
Yes, and if the slope of the receiver tube is different, it will affect the angle of the hitch head, and in turn, the WD bar tension.
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Old 06-01-2011, 12:00 PM   #18
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snip..... Now measure the height of the TV ball as it sits with nothing connected. It should be slightly higher than the TT coupler height (maybe 1 inch).
I should have said, the unhitched TV ball height needs to be the same or slightly LOWER (max 1 inch) than the level TT coupler height.
Sorry for the boo boo.

Also, Rustic Eagle makes a good point about tires. An LT tire with stiff sidewall will help the handling when towing.
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Old 06-01-2011, 12:58 PM   #19
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Some very good points being made here by some very experienced towers. I`m glad the OP is being helped with the technical details of his setup. Nice going, guys.
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Old 06-01-2011, 02:10 PM   #20
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Quote:
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I should have said, the unhitched TV ball height needs to be the same or slightly LOWER (max 1 inch) than the level TT coupler height.
Sorry for the boo boo.

.
Are you sure about that?? My Equal-i-zer manual says to be sure the ball is higher than the coupler. The weight of the trailer will naturally lower it once it's hooked up. Mine is set an inch above the trailer coupler and even with the WDH there is going to be some settling.
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