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Old 06-01-2011, 02:31 PM   #21
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Having that full fw tank had to be adding to your feeling of movement. With that water sloshing around youre bopund to feel that transfer to the tv. Guys that haul takners say that before the days of baffles in the tanks, some truckers would actually get seasick from the liquid moviung in the tank. You may be been feeling something similar to this.
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Old 06-01-2011, 03:46 PM   #22
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snip.....Wow...with the FW tank full and the gear loaded it seems like the back end was so squishy and bounced with every bump. We never hit the bump stops though.......snip
Just to add to 'villain2000' comments..; If you plan to be towing with a full FW tank most of the time, then you should adjust your WDH with a full FW tank. Depending on the location of your FW tank under full conditions, it could very easily add/deduct critical weight from your loaded tongue weight objective (13% to 15% of loaded TT weight) if you adjust your WDH without a full tank.

Note: If you plan to tow the majority of the time with just a couple gallons in the FW tank for travel stops, adjust the WDH to these conditions. If you also feel that there may be some occasions where you will have a full FW tank, then take the TV/TT to a CAT scale to confirm the impact on your loaded tongue weight with a full tank (so you know what handling issues to expect).

Your loaded tongue weight is directly associated to the ease of handling your TV/TT combination under ideal, but more importantly less than ideal conditions.

Just a little more food for thought.

Bob
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Old 06-01-2011, 04:00 PM   #23
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Are you sure about that?? My Equal-i-zer manual says to be sure the ball is higher than the coupler. The weight of the trailer will naturally lower it once it's hooked up. Mine is set an inch above the trailer coupler and even with the WDH there is going to be some settling.
IMO both you and 'David472' are correct. The initial top-of-ball height can be 1/2" to 1" lower or higher than the distance from the inside top of the ball coupler of the trailer to the ground. The reason being that in most cases once the ball mount tilt and spring bars are adjusted, the ball mount height may have to be re-adjusted anyways (TV suspensions, spring bar ratings, etc., also play into it).

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Old 06-02-2011, 09:10 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by 3Pillons View Post
Are you sure about that?? My Equal-i-zer manual says to be sure the ball is higher than the coupler. The weight of the trailer will naturally lower it once it's hooked up. Mine is set an inch above the trailer coupler and even with the WDH there is going to be some settling.
Well, probably up to 1 inch above or below is in the ball park. In another section of the Equalizer manual I have, it says when the TV ball is slightly below the level TT height, there will be more weight transfer when the WD bars are engaged, and less when the TV ball is higher. I just checked mine, and the unhitched TV ball height is slightly lower. For this reason, I suggested he consider the slightly lower unhitched TV condition.
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Old 06-03-2011, 09:31 AM   #25
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Well now I'm about totally confused. That's why I'm here. Wouldn't having the the ball lower than the coupler cause the WDH to pick up the rear end of the TV higher than it is when sitting unloaded?? Wouldn't that cause an entirely different set of handling issues??
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Old 06-03-2011, 03:38 PM   #26
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snip.......Wouldn't having the the ball lower than the coupler cause the WDH to pick up the rear end of the TV higher than it is when sitting unloaded??......snip
It's possible, but it's also possible with the ball height higher than the coupler. It's all a matter of leverage, if you apply enough leverage (above what's required for proper weight distribution) with the spring bars you could possibly raise the rear of the TV so that the drive wheels will spin free of the road surface.

Having installed/adjusted numerous WDH's over the years on lot of different TV/TT combinations....., I have found that different TV suspensions, TT A-frames (tube versus channel), TV receivers (amount of flex), type of WDH, WDH spring bar rating, etc., all have an impact on the end result after engaging a pair of WDH spring bars. IMO these variables are the reason the initial 1/2" to 1" setup above/below the inside top of the coupler may not be critical in many cases.

Depending on how well the prior mentioned variables work together will play a roll in whether one has to raise/lower the ball mount to level the TT. This is why a final ball mount adjustment (raise/lower, not all cases) may be required after the weight distribution adjustments.

How the TV receiver reacts to the upward/downward forces being applied at the WDH ball mount via the spring bars......, well, that's for another thread

Hope this helps.

Bob
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Old 06-10-2011, 09:01 AM   #27
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With the Equal-i-zer hitch, the ball height is only that, the ball height. You adjust the amount of weight distribution by adding / deleting spacer washers in the head assembly to change the angle of the head. Or you can adjust the hangers on the TT frame up or down to achieve more / less weight transfer. The ball height is important in ensuring that the trailer and the TV will be level when hooked up. My manual said it was important to have the ball higher than the coupler to ensure proper alignment once hooked up. It even had a chart to use based on the type of TV being used and the stiffness of it's suspension.

This is my first trailer, so I'm certainly no expert. Don't want to pick a fight, but if the trailer is actually causing the rear of the TV to lift up once hooked up, then there is no way that there is any weight on the tongue at all. Common sense says it is the actually taking weight off of the tongue, too much weight. If you drop the TT onto the TV it should sag, you used the WDH to bring it back close to where it was when unloaded. Any higher than that would be too much weight transfer.
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Old 06-10-2011, 10:58 AM   #28
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3Pillons,
That's interesting. It seems your manual is different than mine. Also, I have less experience on this topic than others on the forum here. There are quite a few factors that go into hitch adjustment decisions, as Rustic Eagle has said. If a person wants to really dial in the WDH settings, then a trip to the weigh scale is the final word on if the two axles of the TV are bearing the proper amount of load each. I think what we've been discussing here is some things to consider when deciding if the hitch is close to being correct. Your points certainly have merit, because lifting the TV rear end may put too much weight on the front axle. This would have a negative effect on steering.

I hope the OP has found a solution to his concerns about vehicle handling while towing.
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Old 06-10-2011, 07:04 PM   #29
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3Pillons,
I hope the OP has found a solution to his concerns about vehicle handling while towing.
I Second that. My hitch is a 2003 so any number of things could have changed since then. I feel confident with my set-up and hope that everyone else feels the same with theirs.
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Old 06-11-2011, 10:27 AM   #30
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I'm glad that...

...someone else was able to sum up the sensations they are feeling while towing a trailer and being new to the whole thing. I feel that same way and am also new to towing a TT. Sounds like there are a lot of opinions on adjustments to the towing set up as well.

p.s. I'm still trying to figure out if what I have for a WDH includes sway bars, since I don't quite understand the difference with a sway bar and the two heavy bars and chain adjustments I have on mine. My head might explode!
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